[morzh]

Was about to start recap but my son is having some webelos scout grad ceremony today so will have to wait 'till evening.
Caps and resistors are the two must do parts I never skip.
Maybe I check tubes tonight to see if I have to order any.

[jerryhawthorne]

Mike the walrus, you might check this one out.
Jerry

http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread...Philco+111

[morzh]

Thanks Jerry, I will. I hope the fact that it is a Highboy does not affect the alignment procedure

[jerryhawthorne]

Probably not Mike but the replacement of the large cap can may make it easier for you. It was relatively painless and we all like that. That part was actually fun with no nasty tar to remove. For a modest price I will send you the "magic" bolt, you must supply a very well mounted vice.
Best, Jerry

[morzh]

Well.... I lack the very well mounted vice, or for that matter - any vice. Except those my head feels being in.
But I have been planning on buying some vice.
Another thing is where I would mount them, let alone mount them very well.
How'bout that - I buy a vice with a very wide foot I could stand upon with my feet and then pull the can up. Of course the can can bounce up and leave me missing some teeth in front but then maybe after the dentist is done with my implants (I mean - dental) I would look better. :p

[TA Forbes]

Every 111 and 112 I have worked on has had many of the resistors out of spec. It is good to check every one of them. Also remember that they are NOT color-coded IAW modern color code, hence one must know what resistor one is checking in the schematic and what it's value should be.

Strongly recommend bakelite block caps and metal box caps be re-stuffed, as the 111 chassis is very shallow and offers little room for creative restoration.

Agree, they ARE very good sets. In my opinion the ones with PP 45s sound better than the ones with PP 47s.

I have a Pilot Super Wasp SW converter added to my BelGeddes 112H and a Midwest Miraco SW Converter added to my 112X. This makes a nice set even better.

[morzh]

I never look for resistor and cap codes unless I have to as I go by schematic, and it has the values listed.
I usually change most resistors anyway, and restuff all caps I can, replacing the rest.

[morzh]

Tonight after having cooked dinner and having scolded my son for his studying attitude I was able to sit down and finish backelite caps restuffing, took me about 1-1/2 hr, mostg of it was trying to figure the location of the cap on a very screwed up Rider underchassis diagram (it is rthe least legible I have seen so far). Otherwise I streamlined the operation a bit: first I gutted them all one by one, and then restuffed.
Now I need to do that dreadful big can thing.
And electrolytics.

[jerryhawthorne]

Mike, sounds like a fun day so far! As for the "dreadful big can", it is a walk in the park, assuming it has the cardboard liner so the tar is not poured right into the bare can. Break the wires coming through the eyelets from the bottom with a small drill like you do to the bakelite caps. The whole top of the can will then lift off. Large bolt still available! The vice is too heavy and hard to dismount from my bench. Sorry.
Jerry

PS: As I recall the "e-caps" are all in that dreadful can.

[morzh]

Jerry

Is this a lag screw like this one? (I mean type of thread, size obviously has to be large, like at least 4" long and 1/2" diameter)

http://www.grainger.com/category/hex-hea...alog/N-8mz

Or is the screw spiral more like this one, the hex bolt, intended for a nut at the end?
http://www.boltdepot.com/Hex_bolts.aspx?nv=l

I have a large, like 4.5" length / 1/2" diameter hex bolt that somehow ended up in my front yard and I thought it is a shame to throw it away. But I am not sure this is the type I need.

I mean, I hate to bother you for going to the PO and such when I can drop by Home Depot on my way from work and it probably will be there.

[Chuck Schwark]

I believe you want what's call "blunt point" type lag screws.

[Image: http://www.bresco.com/acatalog/BSF023-5-Popup.jpg]

Chuck

[jerryhawthorne]

Personally I would go with the grainger style and 6". Any shorter and you won't be able to get it near the bottom of the can and still have enough sticking out to yank on. I have a feeling you could buy one at ACE hardware.
Jerry

[morzh]

Thanks Chuck and Jerry,

Yes I realize I need a long one as it has to go deep and leave enough length to go through vice.

[morzh]

Jerry

Well, I went to HDepot on my way home and for $1.93 bought 10" long 1/2" wide lag bolt. For $4.50 I could have bought the same but galvanized but I figured for this the cheaper the better (actually galvanized is not smooth so it will go in harder than non-galvanized).

And also, as after having spent $2 for the screw I felt like I was on a spending spree, I bought a vice. I decided not to go for light duty 4" for $25, then looked at the same size regular duty for $49 and then I saw a 6" regular duty for $69 and this is what I bougt.
An additional benefit - they are heavi as heck, about 40 lbs and so even though I am not going to mount them now, the sheer weight of that thing should work as the anchor.

So I am all set for the weekend to but that boxed cap's out of its shell.

PS. The dame of my heart has not found out of this yet. But when she does, maybe she takes pity on me as making me carry this piece of iron back to the car would be cruel.

[jerryhawthorne]

Mike, your on your way. A good long drill, mark the length with masking tape so as not to go all the way through the can, and away you go! Worse part is drilling, the combo of tar and capacitors is nasty. Drill slow and clean it often. Post some pictures for others! You may wish to hold that can in your new vice with the can wrapped in a towel to keep from scratching it. Everyone needs a vice of some kind.
Best, Jerry