Posts: 395
Threads: 33
Joined: Jul 2013
City: Horsham, PA
Hi Everyone,
I just stripped my 19 cabinet this afternoon, and I need to know what to do next.
Is it:
Grain filler, then toner, then multiple coats of lacquer
-or-
Grain filler, lacquer, toner, more lacquer?
I guess I'm unclear whether toner is applied before, or after lacquer, or possibly both. Last coats are just lacquer.
Thanks,
Jon
Posts: 3,148
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Joined: Apr 2011
City: Lexington, KY
It is grain filler, toner, then multiple coats of lacquer.
An option is to use a sanding sealer before grain filler.
Good luck!
John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
Posts: 395
Threads: 33
Joined: Jul 2013
City: Horsham, PA
Thanks Elliot,
Yesterday was such a beautiful day around here that I just about ran outside to strip the cabinet.;) After I was done with that, I realized I wasn't 100% sure what came next. Now I have to wait for the grain filler to arrive. Expected Tuesday.
Might be time to start on my Silvertone.
Thanks again,
Jon
Posts: 4,106
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City: Kings Park NY
You can grain fill first or stain to try to even the color before toning. Remember that if there is a logo decal you have to do it between toner and clear stages.
Dont lacquer and tone inside with no ventilation or you will get colored boogers and have a headache.
Times I have been electrocuted in 2021
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Posts: 761
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Joined: Jul 2013
City: Kentucky
A nice coat of sanding sealer prior to grain filling will prevent two potential problems..
1. If you are using a colored grain filler, it will have a tendency to darken the wood. Sanding sealer is a bit of protection against this problem. Think of it as a coating to protect and seal your wood.
2. If the cabinet has ever been cleaned, or polished, with any substance containing silicon, you may run into issues with "fisheyes" when you apply your toner. The darker the toner, the more susceptible, in my experience. Fisheyes suck. Period. I've refinished cabinets using universal walnut and gotten no fisheyes, then when I apply extra dark walnut over the universal walnut, fisheyes appear. Sanding sealer is your best defense against fisheyes. I use sanding sealer on any cabinet that will get mahagony, dark walnut or extra dark walnut.
The artist formerly known as Puhpow! 8)
Posts: 395
Threads: 33
Joined: Jul 2013
City: Horsham, PA
Thanks Kirk and PuhPow,
Another question about styling. When I look online at pictures of the 19B, the front portion of the cabinet around the speaker, the dial and the controls is darker, and the remaining portion of the cabinet is lighter. However, when I look at model 89 cabinets, they seem to be toned the opposite where the sides and trim are darker and the front is lighter. Is there a "correct" way to do this, or do people just implement the light/dark shading to suit their own tastes? These cabinets are very similar so I don't know why they would be done differently.
Personally, I like the '89 look where the front area around the dial and controls is lighter and sides are darker, but I don't want to ruin the appearance by doing it backwards.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Jon
(This post was last modified: 04-09-2014, 02:55 PM by PAradiogeek.)
Posts: 1,409
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Joined: Oct 2007
City: Linn Creek, MO
Jon, the 89B was toned darker on the outer portion of the front panel. The front arch of the 19B is Mahogany veneer with a Walnut front panel insert. So yes, the inner portion of the 19B front is darker.
Steve
M R Radios C M Tubes
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