[woodguy]

Hi, a newbie first timer here…

I'm restoring my 41-256T and want it as close to original as possible. When new, were these finished in gloss or semi-gloss. Any other work I do is satin, but I’m assuming satin was not in vogue in the 1940's. I plan to spray Deft lacquer from a can, although I do have an HVLP rig. I found the finishing regimen as published by Philco in 1951 on another site and plan to follow that to the letter.

Also, on color, what shade of walnut as original. With some experimenting on scrap walnut that matched the stripped tone of my cabinet, Zar Early American seems a good match, but have not actually applied any yet. I want a light walnut with just a hint of red or orange.

What’s the recommendation on the edges (solids) and feet? Were these the exact same color as the panels or darker? I expect problems with the edges taking the stain uniformly and since I can’t tone the lacquer from a can, will have to resort to other measures with oil stain or perhaps universal tints. I know how to achieve localized toning by feathering oil stain to achieve results similar to tinting the spray in a small area. I tried the Behlen lacquer toner in cans and it was a disaster. It’s toned way too dark and is almost like brown paint unless you mist on the thinnest of coats then stop.

On the brass strip, I read another post about Brasso and will try that, but why not just burnish it with 600 or finer grit emery paper and paint thinner? Looking at the back of the escutcheon where it’s bent around, it looks like the original finish was a finely brushed finish.

See photos.

Thanks for any advice!

   

   

Do the edges and feet need special treatment?
   

[Warren]

You can get Different toners from Mohawk mixed in a spray can, or I used Behlen toners and Deft Lacquer in a can and mixed my own and used a compressor and hvlp gun. I think gloss in the usual to use.

[woodguy]

ok, thanks for the reply. Would probably have to order online. Only see Behlen at the local Woodcraft store, no Mohawk locally in retails stores. I tried the Behlen toner, but too opaque for me. Have had good results with Deft spray.

[Ron Ramirez]

In order to avoid pigmented lacquer that quickly turns into paint with too many coats, use Mohawk's Ultra Classic toners instead. And you won't find Mohawk products in your local hardware store (unfortunately) - you do have to order them online.

Mohawk's Medium Walnut Tone Finish does not seem to have as much pigment as other Tone Finish colors. I think I would use Medium Walnut overall on that cabinet, with Perfect Brown Ultra Classic on the edges and feet.

The original finish would have been gloss lacquer, hand rubbed.

[TimC]

Hi Woodguy

You may have a distributor near you.

http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/find-a-distributor.aspx

[woodguy]

Thanks for the distributor link. Sorta close but not that close for me in Sactown. I'll get the Mohawk online if I decide to go that route. Been in a finishing/refinishing class class at a local JC and have learned how to feather oil stain (Zar in this case) by carefully brushing out with a Chinese bristle brush with very interesting results. Looks like a sprayed toner finish when done. The instructor is a magician. This could work on the edges and feet.

On the "medium walnut" and "perfect brown ultra classic" ,is that the Mohawk lacquer spray or an oil stain? Are you talking no stain, just the lacquer toner to achieve the color or use a base coat of oil stain too?

Thanks for the info.

[TimC]

They are the Mohawk spray toners that Ron mentions above.
You just need the laquer / spray based toner. No stain required.
Spray on scrap to get a feel on coverage.

http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_...?ictNbr=22

Tim

[OldRestorer]

In my opinion I would use some glidden wood grain paint and slop it on heavy like people seem to do and thing it is refinished.

That radio has very nice veneers so dont kill it with toner. I agree with Ron on the color scheme. Perfect brown has that reddish tint you want but medium brown is more just a walnut color.
Problem with rattle cans is uneven finish. It takes more sanding to get that flat finish ready for waxing. or buffing.


I just got a 155 and cant wait to get her up to par.

post lots of updates and pictures.

[bfrohwein]

if you're going for originality.. don't do the fancy woodworking stuff on it. No staining. I did that to a cabinet and yes, it looks great, but it looks modern and not authentic.

I'd stick to satin, personally, it can always be made to be more shiny. Behlens and Mohawk are the same company. not sure how much of the formulas are the same, but I tried behlens and it seemed to be the same as mohawk but 50% more expensive. I can get both locally. I won't make everyone jealous again about my hardware store with an entire Mohawk, "wing".. oops.

[Jamie]

I won't make everyone jealous again about my hardware store with an entire Mohawk, "wing".. oops. Icon_angel

Heheh.... I've got a Mohawk distributor within 15 miles. They carry every product Mohawk makes. It's very handy! I always end up spending too much money in there.

[TimC]

There's a Mohawk distributor 2 blocks from work..
I think I have more inventory than they do now

[Jamie]

Tim, I even have Mohawk super glue.. .. Maybe you and I need to open a Mohawk store?

[woodguy]

I don't know....I'm torn now between stain or just toner. Part of the fun for me with refinishing is the staining where the look is transformed within minutes and you can tweak it with hard or light rubbing for shading + more coats or a different color if desired. All that probably not appropriate with the radio except maybe on the feet or end edge strips. I got this radio at a yard sale probably 30+ yrs ago and it's been on one garage loft or another baking in the heat. It's huge fun to be finally getting around to it. Next it will be the electronics. It does work but has the loud buzz from dead filter caps. I have a new escutcheon and push buttons and oddly the knobs still look new but the push buttons look like they've been soaking in acetone.

I just finished a circa 1914 quarter-sawn oak swivel desk chair with a coat of Behlen spirit stain (hickory) followed by Zar Early American oil stain to get the color I wanted, then a coat of Zar charcoal glaze rubbed off 99% followed by 4 coats of rubbed-on heavily thinned poly and it turned out great. I used the alcohol stain to stain the areas of oak that oil does not want to penetrate.

Thanks for all the advice! More later as I progress. A little more stripping on the speaker grill yet and more sanding before I move on to staining and/or toning.

[Warren]

If you want to do the radio as original you need to use toner. That's how they did it when made back in the day.