[fields 100]

I started this thread here as I work mostly with a Philco radios.
Can someone (most likely, it is going to be Kirk) tell me the difference between pumice, rottenstone, waxing and just compounding.I do the latter.We both lay the lacquer heavily, at least 4-5 coats,let it cure for a few weeks, then sand it down to at least 1200, sometimes 2000 grit. After that, the different procedures start taking place.Does the pumice method create finish closer to the original or it is just a method of choice of the professional cabinet makers? I know for sure it does take definitely more elbow grease but if it is better I am in for it. Thanks.

[Arran]

It's all a matter of coarseness, pumice is finer then sandpaper or steel wool, and rottenstone is finer then pumice. Rottenstone is usually what they stopped with for rubbing out a finish, it comes out glossy but not like a base coat clear coat painted car, which is what that liquid polishing compound is for. Wax is just something you apply over the finish for extra protection, not part of the actual finish, it's optional as to whether you want to use it or not. The compound can be a multitude of grits, some like 0000 steel wool or 2000 grit sandpaper, and others finer then rottenstone.
Regards
Arran

[Warren]

Arran said it very well.. if you want to learn more look on utubethee are many videos to explain and show you how to use the various finishing media.

[fields 100]

I was just merely asking about the difference in the final appearance...

[OldRestorer]

+1

I dont know why you think I would be the source for answers. I am fairly new to radio restoration and your finishes look better than mine.

I still use rattle cans so there is a lot of elbow grease either way.
What sprayer do you use? I may need to buy one.
My finishes are not as good as I want them to be and I think a sprayer will help me achieve a better outcome and create less work.

For final appearance I think you already have achieved the top rated finishes. If you get that finish without rottenstone then I say you dont need it. If you want to do it like the manufacturers then try it out. may be less buffing afterward.

Kirk

[fields 100]

Kirk,

You are too modest.Your cabinets are excellent to say the least.You could be new to the radio restoration, but definitely not to the woodwork finish.
I use for my work regular auto touch up spray gun (sometimes they call it "mini").
I tried both ways and found out that the lacquer you are using is easier to compound if done by hand. With an orbital buffer it does not matter.You see, I have never seen or touched the perfect original to compare and my concern is always overdoing it.Some high end radios did have the piano look like finish, but with cathedrals I simply do not know.

[OldRestorer]

In some instances your finish may be shinier the original but It's your radio.
Think of it as better than new. I like my radios to shine and if it is not 100% original looking I am ok with that.

Kirk

[Warren]

Well Kirk, I think if someone follows the way you do your cabinets they will probably do well. So, it is good to have your opinion. By the way when I toned my 47-1230 I bought a spray gun ( already had the compressor), it sprayed very evenly , the only problem I had was trying to get it to the right consistency so the finish was as smooth as it could be so I wouldnt need to sand it so much to make it smooth afterwards. I think thats the trick of spraying with a gun.

[Image: http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p721...165b97.jpg]

[fields 100]

It is much more to it. When the paint is sanded and buffed out, there is not much concern over surrounding environment( dust, bugs, etc.) Not so with a clear coating without sanding. To get good surface, there are 2 important factors: air pressure at the gun and viscosity.I have an old viscosity measuring cup, which allows the viscosity adjustment by the amount of time the paint flows through the calibrated orifice. The air pressure has to be adjusted correctly as well. Also the moisture control is important.

[Warren]

Yes, that is what I was trying to say in not so many words.

[fields 100]

Warren,

The set looks mighty well.
Did you have to sand, compound and polish it or it came out that way straight after spraying the clear coat? I sometimes get lucky with a real good flow, no need for sanding, but other times, even though it is shiny and without runs, it has an orange peel, and it has to be sanded out regardless.

[Warren]

Thanks for the compliment,
I have to admit I did have to sand it after the top clear coats. I went up to 1000 grit then used a plastic polishing compound ( cant think of the name right now) on it and waxed it. It was very shiny like that after spraying but the finish wasn't smooth enough.
That is one thing I have to practice at is getting the right consistency of laquer and the right air pressure to hopefully get to where there is hardly any sanding after the last clear coat. Cause, man.. is it a lot of sanding on a floor model like that.

[fields 100]

I know.. I have sanded entire car way back in the days.In my case,I think I nailed it at 30 psi and visc. at 24 sec. Try to find that cup, it eliminates all guesswork.Once you get the ## right, all you have to do is just fill and spray.

[Warren]

Thanks.. I will try to find one of those viscosity cups. Sounds like a good idea.

[Geoff]

I've never tackled a full console before. You did an excellent job on your Warren!!! I'd like to try the plastic polishing compound you mentioned. Hopefully you can remember which one it was.