[Eric Adams]

I put the radio so the shaft is vertical (pointing straight up) and I dripped the wd-40 down the shaft. Kept rocking the shaft up and back with vice grips. Worked for me.

[morzh]

Yes tried that too.

So far have tried Liquid Wrench (lithium) and PB blaster, both inside the contact group where the shaft is coming out and down the shaft.

Tomorrow if it persists will try DW40(have that too).

[Arran]

The band-switch shaft froze again because the WD evaporated and the old grease/oil solidified, WD is a penetrating fluid not a lubricant, same with PB Blaster. After you free something up with WD or the rest you need to work some oil down into the bushing so it doesn't stick again. Sometimes these things get so bad that you have no option but to dismantle the switch by removing the lock ring from the shaft, and then cleaning out the bushing.
Regards
Arran

[Eric Adams]

You're confused, Arran. I was the one who used WD-40 and the shaft on mine is still free. Morzh didn't use WD-40 and his is stuck.

[morzh]

Arran,

Mine never really unfroze fully or much, and I did use Lithium grease first, and it seized again, so yesterday I used PB with little if any success, and today I am trying WD40.

And the funny thing is, the lock ring is not even there. So someone could have tried that too by now.

I hate the thought of desoldering the whole thing and trying to disassembe it.

[OldRestorer]

I have to do this to the Airline I have. It is so rusted that I dont think it will help to do anything except soak it for a week in gasoline.

I think you are talented enough to de-solder and fix that little guy.

[morzh]

This is a weird animal....the retaining ring is absent.
And there seems to be nothing holding the rotor of the switch otherwise.

So when I tap on the shaft, I fully expect the rotating panel (the contacts are horizontal so they are not held by other contacts when the axial move occurs, or ao I think) and the shaft to come out. Only it does not.

I probably need to pull all tubes and give it a nice wack. But so far it's been fruitless.

[morzh]

After some work and whacking with a hammer the shaft started moving and now I have it 2/3 way in. But this is where it is really got stuck. I do not see anything bad, the part that came out from the back is smooth, clean, no rust at all.

[morzh]

Applied some Lithium grease to the insideart of the shaft.

After some working all of a sudden it started rotating freely and then I could pull it back with pliers, while keeping applying the grease. Now it is back in its position switching freely.

Now, there is that question of the missing retaining ring - need to get it fom somewhere.

[morzh]

OK, the donor was the bad pot from the Westinghouse, good thing I keep those.

The switch works, the effort is minimal, as it should be. Two fingers without any exertion.

I wonder what it was that held it...no residue, palpable or visible, was present.

Good thing is, this switch construction allows for extracting the shaft and the moving contacts without removing the whole switch, just bend parts and move wires a bit to clear the way for it to slide out.

Gave it a bit of Deoxit for good measure, though contacts looked very clean with minimal oxidation.

Alignment tomorrow.


PS. There was some extra good in it - during the whacking process a huge splash of solder came off of somewhere. likely from a chassis' wall.

[morzh]

This is so darn sensitive....12" wire, and I pull in stations I did not know exist. At high freq part of dial especially.
And this all before alignment.

[morzh]

Aligned it...not much of an alignment, IF, trap, upper end and low end osillator.

A note to those aligning these - do not epect yours tations to be right where they should be even if your low and high ends are. Mine local station which is 1160 is at about 1140 or so, and this is not the first time I see it.

Very sensitive, pulls lots of stations on 1' wire.
One day I'll get a real aerial ...

[morzh]

Some pics of the chassis....

   
   
   
   

I actually did use a bobbin from toilet paper roll, as it fit exactly the size of the electrolytic cap. The original was disintegrating. I glued original on top the toilet paper one, impregnated it with some Elmer's. Main goal was so the brass contact that connected to the can would not rip through and short to the Chassis. Of course I could forgo that altogether but the can and thick brass contact make for a good wire mounting post.
   

[morzh]

The transformer has been replaced.
Not exact model but also for the 42 tube, SE, also Philco and close impedance matching. Also looks close (cover on top) and has exact same mounting panel on it (under the cover), so the connection does not change.
The speaker allows for mounting holes variations so though this one is wider, it fit.
Had to make new wiring.

   


   

The caps have been rebuilt.
The choke is a Philco but smaller size, however the current rating is same or better. To make it look the same and fit to the mount, I simply put it in the bracket from the original choke, used some wood and epoxy to mount, (discovered that works well when I did the interstage audio driver in 111) and it went right in.

   

[Warren]

Nice job rebuilding those caps, hard to tell. What do you fill up the holes in each side with?