[OldRestorer]

I took a look at the chassis and someone was in there already.

There is a Sprague mounted underneath the chassis which I believe is #11 on the schematic and is 10 uF. I have never seen one like this before so do i open it and put a new cap inside it?
I also see #5 but where is this? that many caps inside 1 can?
I see a long list of caps on the schematic but only see 2 blocks, 1 replacement cap (which is a .02 and could be a jimmy rig?), the Sprague, and the 2 Filter cap cans (#30 and #31 but don't see the values on the schematic?).

I'm trying to do it myself instead of running to Mike and never learning but this one is confusing me.

Here are some pics and the schematic:
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...013761.pdf

I know this is a lot but bare with me.

Kirk

[morzh]

You do not open the Sprague.
Looks like an oil cap.

Measure it, if good - keep using it if it is what should be there, otherwise replace, but it might be a good cap nevertheless.

[Eliot Ness]

#5 is just several (5) caps in one long square metal can. It is shown on the second page of your link in figure 2 and contains the following caps:

.05 (use.047)
.09 (use .1)
.25 (use .22)
.75 (use 1)
.2 (use .22)

The typical yellow Chinese film capacitors rated at 630 volts will do fine, and Buzz has a Youtube video showing how he restuffed a similar capacitor block.

You need to observe where the different colored wires from that block go so you'll know how to wire it back up.

I think I'd replace that Sprague with a 10 uf capacitor just to be safe, or at least make sure what you test it with can measure leakage because that is a very old capacitor.

[Chuck Schwark]

CORRECTION ON CAP VALUES:

0.09 (Use 0.1uf) -- NOT .01

Chuck

[Eliot Ness]

(0.09) USE 0.1

Thanks, noted and corrected..... pesky little decimal points

[Chuck Schwark]

[OldRestorer]

Thanks,
I'm sure I will have more questions but for now we will have to see.

Kirk

[morzh]

Make sure those are decimal points and not decimal commas, otherwise your radio will speak with some European accent.

[OldRestorer]

Am I to believe that this thing pictured is the large Cap Block with these in it?
.05 (use.047)
.09 (use .1)
.25 (use .22)
.75 (use 1)
.2 (use .22)

[Chuck Schwark]

Yep, that rectangular metal beast with some black fish paper showing on the end is a multi-section cap w/wire leads.

Chuck

[morzh]

Yes, values are good.

[OldRestorer]

Ok so I have pulled the giant cap block and am having a little issue.

I just want to be sure that

.05 (use.047) is black
.09 (use .1) is green
.25 (use .22) is white
.75 (use 1) is red
.2 (use .22) is black and white.


I know the red fades so hopefully I got them right. They all get tied together and grounded to the can right?

My next thing is that I don't have any 1.0 caps. Can I use a .68 cap or should I use (2) .47 caps and do they go piggy backed or in series? I always forget...

Last is the 10UF e-cap that is mounted to the side of the bottom. Should I use 160V or 450V?

Thanks
Kirk

[morzh]

Paralleling adds, series divides.

You need to parallel.

If 10uF is the #11, then 160V is plenty. It can even be a small lytic, plus up, minus down (as shown in sch).

[PhilcoJohn]

Guys wounldnt the caps in that big block still be ok because of the tar keeping the caps fresh from moisture?

[morzh]

The leakage in paper caps is not only due to moisture, otherwise few would leak as they are all potted.
There are some other things at play, possibly chemical.