Posts: 736
Threads: 26
Joined: Jun 2013
City: Hayward, California
Finally I am starting on my 89 Chassis, Here are a couple pictures before I start.
Here is the top portion
[Image: http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p721...e569d6.jpg]
Here is the bottom of chassis,
[Image: http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p721...9461bf.jpg]
And I have a question, the metal block on the left contains 5 caps in it. But looking on the schematic I can find only one reference to part #4 which is this metal case with 5 caps in it.The #4 of the schematic only shows one cap, can someone tell me what I am missing so I can find out where the other 4 caps are and what they connect to? The part #4 (the metal case in the pic) should have .09, .05, .09, .05 and a .25 in it but I cant find those on the schematic. thanks for any help, here is a pic of he schematic.
[Image: http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p721...028ded.jpg]
(This post was last modified: 11-23-2014, 07:19 PM by Warren.)
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
You shouldn't be going by that schematic anyway, as I see your 89 has a 36 tube and not a 77. Continued use of that newer schematic will only serve to confuse you.
Use the information here:
http://www.philcoradio.com/tech/89evol.htm
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 736
Threads: 26
Joined: Jun 2013
City: Hayward, California
Crap.... I told Chuck I had a code 123 and that's the info he gave me. Looks like the parts list, etc will be wrong also then. The tube didn't have a number on it so wasn't positive on if it was 36 or 77. Amazing you can tell that just from the picture. It does seem to make more sense comparing to the radio. Thanks, I will print out the other schematic.... after I find out which one is my version exactly. 
EDIT ... Well, I have the K21 speaker so it is at least run 7. Just have to figure out if it is run 7, 9 or 13 looks like.
(This post was last modified: 11-23-2014, 09:18 PM by Warren.)
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
Simple: Your under-chassis photo...second tube from the left...it clearly has five pins so it must be a 36. A 77 has six pins. 
Don't blame Chuck, he provides an excellent and needed service. 
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Posts: 736
Threads: 26
Joined: Jun 2013
City: Hayward, California
(11-23-2014, 09:30 PM)Ron Ramirez Wrote: Simple: Your under-chassis photo...second tube from the left...it clearly has five pins so it must be a 36. A 77 has six pins.
Don't blame Chuck, he provides an excellent and needed service.
Yes, I agree. Chuck does good job, just somehow , im sure because of all the revisions to this model, it got mixed up. thanks again.
Posts: 1,703
Threads: 55
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Evanston, IL
BTW, I did send all pertinent Production Change Notes for his set in the info packet.
Can't remember if I also directed him to Ron's Evolution page here as well.
That Chuck guy…..
Posts: 736
Threads: 26
Joined: Jun 2013
City: Hayward, California
Looks like I need to replace some wires in this set. A couple have the insulation coming off and I need to use new longer wires for the electrolytic 450volt caps. Just wanted to meke sure about the kind of wire to use... is 22gauge strnded wire right? Or is there a better choice? Thanks for any suggestions.
Posts: 26
Threads: 7
Joined: Dec 2011
City: Eagle,
State, Province, Country: ID
I like to use stranded wire. If you nick solid wire and have to move later, to replace a part, it may break and you may never know it until you apply power to the radio and find out that you have a problem. That's only my opinion.
I just got done reworking a Philco 89 today. Like you I was a little confused about which schematic to use. My radio had the 36 Osc tube and I finally figured out that I had to use run 13 schematic. I also read through all the changes and anything else I could find on the 89.
Make sure that you check all transformers. My radio had a bad power Xformer and an open osc coil. I did rewind the ocs coil and replaced the power transformer, along with the capacitors and many resistors. I applied power, just today, and the radio came alive. There are still a few problems but I am hoping that a good alignment will cure these problems.
Just take your time, be careful, and enjoy restoring your radio.
Posts: 736
Threads: 26
Joined: Jun 2013
City: Hayward, California
Thanks JOEJOE for your answer, so I take it 22 gauge wire sounds like its big enough to everyone here?
Posts: 736
Threads: 26
Joined: Jun 2013
City: Hayward, California
Since no one answered.. guess I will go with 22 gauge stranded wire. Thanks everyone for your time.
Posts: 16,266
Threads: 566
Joined: Oct 2011
City: Jackson
State, Province, Country: NJ
22 gauge is quite adequate for a radio chassis but AWG has nothing to do with voltage so you have to watch your insulation voltage rating.
Posts: 4,816
Threads: 54
Joined: Sep 2008
City: Sandwick, BC, CA
I would use 20 gauge, 600 V rated, either as tinned stranded wire or solid core wire depending on what the set used originally, but use 18 on power transformers. The insulation on a lot of 22 gauge wire is very thin, so you really need to watch the voltage rating on that stuff.
Regards
Arran
Posts: 1,407
Threads: 72
Joined: Oct 2007
City: Linn Creek, MO
I have to disagree, use the unrated cloth covered wire, the 600 volt rated wire is too large in diameter and looks terrible. The unrated wire we have today has more insulation than the unrated wire that Philco used originally.
Steve
M R Radios C M Tubes
Posts: 736
Threads: 26
Joined: Jun 2013
City: Hayward, California
Thanks Guys, I appreciate the replys. I know it seems a simple question but a little input helps alot for me as I havent had to replace wires yet in a set. I know what to look at now.
Posts: 403
Threads: 40
Joined: Feb 2011
City: McPherson, KS
Good luck on a good radio! I had fun on the one I redid a while back...that is, figuring out which schem to use.
Users browsing this thread: 4 Guest(s)
|
|
Recent Posts
|
|
An attempt to remove the Field Coil from a G speaker
|
| Mike;
I've only run into a speaker with an open filed coil twice, and they were on newer speakers from the 1940s. One ...Arran — 12:48 AM |
|
An attempt to remove the Field Coil from a G speaker
|
| Arran
Yes, this is my plan for now and what do I got to lose, this is not even the speaker from this radio, but one o...morzh — 10:44 PM |
|
An attempt to remove the Field Coil from a G speaker
|
| Mike;
I would unwrap the field coil, and see if maybe there a break near one of the ends, like where the coil wire att...Arran — 10:23 PM |
|
An attempt to remove the Field Coil from a G speaker
|
| ...and this is what I did. I fed a little LT into the screwholes with a small brush, and a little on the rim next to the...morzh — 09:52 PM |
|
Philco 40-120C Restoration
|
| I combined the two 40-120C threads together as we like to keep the discussion of the same radio together. It helps with...klondike98 — 09:36 PM |
|
Philco 40-120C Weak, Distorted Ouput
|
| Just checked were I buy tubes price is four dollars. So living in Florid we have a local source for tubes. David David — 09:14 PM |
|
Philco 40-120C Weak, Distorted Ouput
|
| The higher voltage may be due to higher mains voltage. My mains run 120-125AC when the set was new mains would be 110-11...David — 09:09 PM |
|
Philco 40-120C Weak, Distorted Ouput
|
| Thank you for your reply. I pulled a speaker from a Philco 41-221 and received the same result. I used a signal tracer t...bluecap — 08:45 PM |
|
Philco 40-120C Weak, Distorted Ouput
|
| Have you tried a different speaker?
How did you trace the distortion?
How do you know it is weak? What is the reference?...morzh — 08:33 PM |
|
Philco 46-480 Electronic Restoration
|
| Amen to that! Every time I think I’ve captured them all, I realize that there’s another error. My goal is to finish with...jrblasde — 07:00 PM |
|
Who's Online
|
There are currently 2497 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 2496 Guest(s)
|
|
|
|
 
|
![[-]](https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/bootbb/collapse.png "[-]")
