Point taken. Once I settled into a good groove working on this Zenith, I found that it wasn't that difficult after all. Hopefully, replacing those AM band leaves won't be too hard, either. I have the Goller method thanks to John (Eliot) which I will print out when I am ready to tackle that job.
Mike (morzh)
Thanks, I did check that coil and it was A-O-K. The local-distance switch is definitely working. During my brief test, I switched to the second band and tuned some SW in the 49M band. I was puzzled as to why I wasn't picking up much, until I realized that I had left the local-distance switch in the local position. When switched to On-Distance, the difference was amazing as the SW stations then came in with great strength. A station I could just barely hear on On-Local suddenly became very strong and loud when the set was switched to On-Distance.
(01-03-2015, 11:00 PM)Ron Ramirez Wrote: The local-distance switch is definitely working. During my brief test, I switched to the second band and tuned some SW in the 49M band. I was puzzled as to why I wasn't picking up much, until I realized that I had left the local-distance switch in the local position. When switched to On-Distance, the difference was amazing as the SW stations then came in with great strength. A station I could just barely hear on On-Local suddenly became very strong and loud when the set was switched to On-Distance.
That local/distance switch really kills the radio when in the local position. The Zenith expert John Goller had a solution to this which worked rather well but it has been quite a while since I've done it. It was switching out, or adding a resistor. I'll try to find my notes with the information. It worked very well.
(01-03-2015, 08:49 PM)Ron Ramirez Wrote: It's funny...the 6T5 was the only bad tube. The rest are all good. Yes, most are metal; pardon me. I do not have a lot of ST style octal tubes and of the ones I do have, I'm saving them for use in my 1937-38 Philcos. Pin 1 of each socket is connected to chassis ground (I checked). So even though it doesn't look pretty by Brand Z standards, it is functional.
Ron;
I likely would have done the same, by the fact that Brand Z decided to ground pin #1 on each socket implies that, unlike Philco, they really had no objection to the idea of metal tubes being used as replacements in their sets. You could also have used GT style tubes if you really had to have glass, I can't recall whether this set still had the tube shields with it or not but by the looks of those clips you could use pretty much any style of octal tube you had on hand provided that the grid lead was long enough.
Regards
Arran
(This post was last modified: 01-04-2015, 02:20 AM by Arran.)
By kills the radio do you mean it really makes sensitivity low?
If yes...that's the purpose and this is the only way I can listen to my local station as AVC does not seem to be enough.
Otherwise I leve it on LD.
Ron
While tuning the radio, do you have crackling or is it quiet?
I never put time into it, maybe it is just dirt in the cap (I never took it out to clean).
It is crackling while the cap is being otated but when tuned it is fine. The crackling is like "hrrrrr" , not separate poppings.
Sorry, by "static" I meant the buzzing and "hrrrr" sounds, as you say, typically heard when tuning across the AM band, depending on one's location and the various things in one's home that generate hash and other interference across the AM band, etc. It does not make any other odd noises when tuning, so the cap plates aren't rubbing.
Right now, when I tune this set I have to help it with one finger pushing the upper pulley along, as the dial belt which is in the set right now is very loose and does not work very well. I'm still waiting for new belts (tuning and motor) from Adams Radio, which I ordered last week.
The thing is that is the only radio I have that makes this type of noise while being tuned, others do not (granted that is also the only floor Z I own, but I don't think this is the reason).
It is no hum, it s fine crackling. Like someone crushes fine rigid foil or pack (those used for chips) or unwraps a foil-wrapped candy.
(This post was last modified: 01-04-2015, 03:52 PM by morzh.)
I must not be experiencing the same noise you are, Mike. As I mentioned, I have to help tune the Zenith up the scale with my finger pushing the upper pulley along due to the bad drive belt. Tuning down is OK. But there is no more noise in this Brand Z set than there is in any of my Philcos.
In fact, I have to say that this 9-S-262 does sound good. I just gave it a complete alignment. Everything (with the exception of the drive belts) is A-O-K. I can see why so many people like this model. But while it is impressive, it isn't enough to make me switch from Philco.
All that remains is for me to replace the dial belts (once they arrive) and to replace those AM leaves in the shutter dial mechanism. I may attempt that tomorrow.
I hope the belts get here soon, and that I have no problems with replacing the leaves - I'm anxious to get started on my Philco Tropic 42-788.
Yes this one does sound well, doesn't it....mine sounds great.
Sad thing my local station that used to run Good times oldies programming now only broadcasts political shows....so my SSTRAN is the sole source of good quality music.
A little late for this project, but if you have issues in the future with rod stock being too large a diameter for the project just chuck an end into a drill, and wrap some 320 grit sandpaper around it. Fire up the drill and hold the sandpaper tightly around the rod. Slide the sandpaper back and forth until the diameter is decreased enough. Aluminum is fairly soft, so it shouldn't take long at all to get the diameter right. Take care, Gary
"Don't pity the dead, pity the living, above all, those living without love."
Professor Albus Dumbledore
Gary - Westland Michigan
Point taken. Once I settled into a good groove working on this Zenith, I found that it wasn't that difficult after all. Hopefully, replacing those AM band leaves won't be too hard, either. I have the Goller method thanks to John (Eliot) which I will print out when I am ready to tackle that job.
I might of used the same method. Here is a copy that I got, probably from Goller, but I forget since it was awhile ago.
As mentioned in a previous post, the green AC cord is just on there temporarily. (Do you know that it has become impossible to find any 18 gauge SPT-1 zip cord around here? It looks like I'll have to order some online.)
A close-up of the resistors that replaced the Candohm, with associated components:
I may tackle the AM band leaves tomorrow. That - and installing a brown AC cord - is all that is left to do to this radio. Oh yes, and the installation of the new drive belts which have yet to arrive.
That homemade assy might work OK, but if not you know what it should look like. Everything else is looking pretty good as long as the chassis doesn't reject that Philco capacitor
John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
(This post was last modified: 01-06-2015, 01:28 AM by Eliot Ness.)
(01-05-2015, 11:41 PM)mafiamen2 Wrote: You did it all very nice but your leaving in metal tubes ?
Well, Sam, I did mention previously (page 4, post #58 ): It's funny...the 6T5 was the only bad tube. The rest are all good. Yes, most are metal; pardon me. I do not have a lot of ST style octal tubes and of the ones I do have, I'm saving them for use in my 1937-38 Philcos. Pin 1 of each socket is connected to chassis ground (I checked). So even though it doesn't look pretty by Brand Z standards, it is functional.
I also wrote in the same post, Little Joe's parents are not collectors and they won't mind that this set has some Philco parts.
They also won't mind metal tubes. Why throw them out when they are perfectly good? I have the tube shields and I can always install ST glass tubes later on, after I get back to work.
When switched to On-Distance, the difference was amazing as the SW stations then came in with great strength. A station I could just barely hear on On-Local suddenly became very strong and loud when the set was switched to On-Distance.
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