[morzh]

I think it is 1" and that's what I built.
Now that it is built I only need lugs and eyelets.

[morzh]

OK.

I saw this type of  termination in AK and other places, where they have drums with resistors and caps.


   
   
   
   

[Eliot Ness]

Beautiful job  

See, you didn't need no stinkin' eyelets or lugs

[morzh]

Yep. That just complicates it. I saw some radios, forgot which, could be Century or Halson, where the coils were done exactly this way. Plus the AK I just did has that where they use drums with resistors and caps mounted on them (that's how they mount components, instead of the flat phenolic board) in the same way too.

So I thought to myself, if it is good for them, why not for me....I mean, for Kirk

[sam]

so your being kind of skimpy with kirks parts
I would not stand for that kirk demand oem parts 

[OldRestorer]

Looks great Mike!
You could have used brown for the bobbin but I won't be picky

I actually got to your big fat cabinet yesterday in the garage. I forgot what it looked like

I think I will do the smaller one first since it is the lesser of 2 evils. Won't get to them for about a month but I will, promise!

Kirk

[OldRestorer]

They are original Mike parts, with this chassis, I will not complain... Much

Kirk

[morzh]

I don't use no aftermarket parts, solely original "Walrus Dick and Co", all hand-made.

Kirk, no rush on those two, I hadn't even got to their chassis yet, plus you need good weather to laquer.

As for brown.....you did not want me to use toilet paper roll, did you? I used fishpaper, and this one, from AES, is blue. It is good though, very dense, I like it.

[morzh]

Q: who uses what for bobbin protection, and what is the process?

If parafin wax is used, is candle parafin wax good? Or is it differend? how do you do it, just melt'n'dip, or...?

If laquer is used, what type? It should be benign on wire enamel and be a good moisture barrier.

The material is leatheroid (fishpaper), and it being hygroscopic, the coil needs to be protected.

[Arran]

 I figured that one would need a tube that is fairly thick and rigid, is fish paper rolled into a cylinder rigid enough? As for lugs I think I would have pulled them off of a destroyed coil or used one of those terminals that you attach to a chassis with a screw for a ground, but whatever works. I think that you could probably just dip the coil in varnish, but any sort of spray lacquer will do, or even the evil poly, or clear Krylon. Paraffin wax doesn't really work that well, it melts too easily, and finding a wax that works is tricky, bee's wax might be the closest.
Regards
Arran

[morzh]

Arran

Above I have already gave the pic of the coil, I did without lugs. No need.
The fish paper I have is rigid as it is (as a product it is designed to be rigid and resist mechanical stress, it even has some mica in it just for that) but then I did two-ply glued together, which I then rolled and glued, and then when it dried, put it on a cylinder (somehow it fitted exactly to an aluminum cap I had which was 1"), heated it up a bit with a heat gun and left to cool, then took it off - it is a practically ideal cylinder now. Very rigid. In fact way more rigid than the original coil. Plus I think non-palatable to rodents as it has mica. (I think the wax is the substance the rodents were after, they love eating candles).

I will probably get a spray lacquer as you suggested. I do not know if it is safe for enamel but as it dries very fast it probably won't damage it.

Actually there was another though - I secured the winding with fabric glue (dries clear) and I though, why not using it for this? I could just spread it thinly all over, inside and outside, and it will waterproof it. Won't it? (I mean, moisture-proof )

[morzh]

I just realized - why not use a conformal coating.

I think either acrylic or silicone. They specifically protect electronics from elements. Used that long time ago, coated myself from spray bottle, but I think I will order one with a brush.

[Ron Ramirez]

...or silicone

NOOOOO!!!!!

Do not use silicone unless it is the type that is safe for copper. Otherwise your hard work will be eaten by the silicone.

[morzh]

Ron

I am inclined to acrylic, seems to be the easiest and the least smelly one, but when I said Silicone, I meant this one

http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/prot...ting-422b/

It is a coating to be directly applied to PCBs which use copper traces, though most times coated with tin/tin-led, and soldermask, but this one does not say anything about being corrosive to copper that very well may be exposed in some places.

Do you have bad experience with Silicone CC or with silicone products in general corroding copper?

(The one I used in the past was, I think, Acrylic, so I never used Silicone)

PS. Found this.
http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=136565

This explains some of it.

[Ron Ramirez]

Yes, I do. I used silicone as a potting material for a few metal can capacitors...until the stuff ate some new capacitors, ruining them.

A friend of mine who works with marine electronics once told me that the company he works for was experiencing problems with some sort of outdoor control box.

He opened the box to find all of the copper had been eaten away - the box had been filled with silicone in an effort to keep out the elements.

Needless to say, now if I need to pot something, I use hot glue instead.