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Introduction and two Philcos
#1

Let me start off by saying I love Philcos! My first old radio that I got when I was 14 (I'm 16 now) was a 1941 Philco, and ever since then, I have been searching high and low for all types of Philcos. I use my trusty 42-327 almost every day, and I love it.

Today, I went to my local Hamfest, and there was a dealer selling all sorts of old Radios, and then I saw it. A 1934 model 84. I went over to it, and found that it cost $140. Well, I didn't have that kind of money, so I continued looking. The guy stopped me and we talked for a while. Before I knew it he was offering the radio for only $60. I knew I had to act fast. My dad and I put our money together, and we got the radio with $1 left over.

A few days before the Hamfest, I looked on CL for Philcos, and I found a 39-30 for sale for $50. After the Hamfest we went and got it, too. The model 84 was advertised as playing, but it certainly does not. It does not recieve any station, no matter which way you turn the dials, you just get a constant 60 cycle hum. Can anybody help me? The 39-30 does the same thing, but it can faintly tune in a station, and it hums much louder.


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Slave to an RCA Victor CTC-25
#2

Dave

Welcome.

As for the radio, playing or not, first see if it has been recapped.
If yes, we can go ahead and troubleshoot.
If not, recap first. Then resistors. Your tansformer is obviously OK otherwise it would not hum, and your speaker is too.

So,

1. Recap.
2. Check tubes.
3. Resistors.
4. Check coils for continuity.
5. Put tubes in, start troubleshooting and then align.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#3

Thanks for the quick reply. It has two new capacitors, both 10 MFD 450 volt. Other than that there aren't any more capacitors. Please also note that I can only do radio maintenance on Saturday mornings at my local Radio Club because I currently do not a workshop. I plan to rearrange a little bit and make one, though.


Attached Files Image(s)
   

Slave to an RCA Victor CTC-25
#4

Welcome to the Phorum!!!
Lots of good help here.  Take a look at Bob Andersen's youtube videos (there are multiple videos), it will be very helpful. Here Is Bob's thread on the 39-30 restoration.

Here's a good thing to read.

There are more caps, they are in those black bakelite blocks.  See this thread on putting new caps in.  More on these caps here.
#5

Bob

the bakelites look recapped. See the fresh shiny solder around the contacts where the wires are coming through the eyelets? It s worth turning one of the over to see what's inside but I think it looks fully recapped (we can only guess as to the quality).

Dave
There are other caps. See those black rectangular things? Those are paper caps encased (potted) inside backelite shells.
They seem taken care of though.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#6

Hi Dave and Welcome to the Phorum
I know I've posted a fair amount about the model 80 and 84 (both are very similar). Search the Phorum for post on your 84.
GL
Terry N3GTE
ps. If you would like some otr to listen to while you contemplate your Philco get this a try. http://wnar-am.com/graphical/index.php/listen-online
Fibber McGee and Molly will be on soon.
#7

ah..Mike...you have sharp eyes!! I think you might be right now that I look closer.

Universal Dave...I'm going to move this thread to the Electronic Restoration category since the direction of the discussion seems to be headed toward troubleshooting. I know I added info on the 39-30 to this, but if we can continue this thread on the 84 and create a new thread when you start working on the 39-30 it will help keep things straight.

You can order schematic information for Chuck Schwark for only a few bucks and it will be more readable than the schematic from Nostalgiaair which I'm linking to here.
#8

After fiddling with the 84 for a while, I got some muffled scratchy sounds at the bottom of the dial, but that's it. No stations whatsoever. Does anyone have any ideas as to what might be the problem?

Slave to an RCA Victor CTC-25
#9

Dave

See my post #2

Omit those steps that have been done if you ure of their quality (recap/recarb), do those that haven't.
Like coils continuity, and tubes check.

Also, keep in mind: 84 is a regenerative set and without alignment AND good positioning of the regen feedback cap shaft (usually a hex thing in the back) simply won't work even if all components are good.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#10

I adjusted the screw in the back, and it just started growling like an angry cat.

Slave to an RCA Victor CTC-25
#11

Check the oscillator coil for an open tickler winding. You may not be getting any mixing of the broadcast signal to the IF frequency. 

If you get the growl, then the regenerative detector is working ok. Back off the adjustment to the point just before it growls.

At least you know that everything after the mixer-oscillator is good ( detector and audio output stages).
#12

Also: Big brown resistor and the one perendicular to it. The big one is known to drift low. ButvI am interested in the other, looks discolored. See if not open.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#13

I don't know how to check the oscillator coil for an open tickler winding.

Slave to an RCA Victor CTC-25
#14

To be a bit more precise the 84 is a  4 tube superhet with  a regenerative detector. Mike is right about the alignment, Don't try to a just any of the trimmer condensers without any signal generator. Except for the one all the way to the left side on the rear apron. It has a brown phonolnic slotted nut. It's the regeneration control.

Unplug the set turn it on with the volume full up. Use an ohm meter and measure between the ant post and chassis ground. If all is well you should only see 5 ohms or less. If it is higher your ant coil has an open primary. Do the same by measuring the resistance from chassis ground to the junction of parts 6&7 at the connect on the oscillator coil. Again should show a few ohms. Guess what if not the feedback winding ( sometimes call tickler winding) is bad. Its very common for these coils to be bad. No worries as they can be fixed easily.
The next issue is the resistors. If you measure them you will find that most have drifted badly. #8,12,18,19,&22 are suspect give them the hairy eyeball.
Assuming that the caps have been replaced that should put you in good shape.
Have fun!!!!
Terry N3GTE
#15

(03-07-2015, 10:11 PM)Radioroslyn Wrote:  Unplug the set turn it on with the volume full up. 

Just to stress the word, as turn it on might give you a wrong idea.
The set is UNPLUGGED from the power outlet and then the volume resistor is rotated to the Maximum volume position (all the way clockwise).

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.




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