Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

TWO 16b tombstones/ FINISHED!
#31

I have repainted the shields for the 3rd time now and even look better than last time. I could not find the nickel paint from krylon on the second time and I used bright silver which looks very good but I bought some rustoleum  that the sheids really looks like they been plated. Check it out, what do you think Ron? Icon_think Icon_think Icon_think  It says metallic but there are no metallic flakes in the paint which is better, go figure Icon_question Its a solid color like plating would be, no metallic Icon_thumbup


Attached Files Image(s)
                   
#32

(06-07-2015, 08:57 PM)Fred Taylor Wrote:  I have repainted the shields for the 3rd time now and even look better than last time. I could not find the nickel paint from krylon on the second time and I used bright silver which looks very good but I bought some rustoleum  that the sheids really looks like they been plated. Check it out, what do you think Ron? Icon_think Icon_think Icon_think  It says metallic but there are no metallic flakes in the paint which is better, go figure Icon_question Its a solid color like plating would be, no metallic Icon_thumbup

Looks good Fred.  Is there another sticker on the can that describes exactly what "color" the paint is?

Crist
#33

(06-07-2015, 09:34 PM)Crist Rigotti Wrote:  
(06-07-2015, 08:57 PM)Fred Taylor Wrote:  I have repainted the shields for the 3rd time now and even look better than last time. I could not find the nickel paint from krylon on the second time and I used bright silver which looks very good but I bought some rustoleum  that the sheids really looks like they been plated. Check it out, what do you think Ron? Icon_think Icon_think Icon_think  It says metallic but there are no metallic flakes in the paint which is better, go figure Icon_question Its a solid color like plating would be, no metallic Icon_thumbup

Looks good Fred.  Is there another sticker on the can that describes exactly what "color" the paint is?
I will look tomorrow, maybe on the lower side near bottom
#34

Agree with Crist - looks good Icon_thumbup Probably the next best thing to plating, color-wise.

However, is this paint conductive?

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#35

The color of paint for the shields is called chrome , that's what rustoleum calls it. I don't know if its conductive but Dick Morgan states that as long as tube shield is grounded good it doesn't matter what kind of paint u use Icon_think
#36

Thanks Fred. I'm going to get some of the stuff. The shields look great!

Crist
#37

(06-08-2015, 07:25 PM)Fred Taylor Wrote:  The color of paint for the shields is called chrome , that's what rustoleum calls it. I don't know if its conductive but Dick Morgan states that as long as tube shield is grounded good it doesn't matter what kind of paint u use Icon_think

I'm pretty sure that's why you want conductive paint, so it will be grounded. Otherwise if it's not conductive it wont make electrical contact, unless you scrape off the paint at any points of contact.
#38

(06-08-2015, 11:26 PM)Warren Wrote:  
(06-08-2015, 07:25 PM)Fred Taylor Wrote:  The color of paint for the shields is called chrome , that's what rustoleum calls it. I don't know if its conductive but Dick Morgan states that as long as tube shield is grounded good it doesn't matter what kind of paint u use Icon_think

I'm pretty sure that's why you want conductive paint, so it will be grounded. Otherwise if it's not conductive it wont make electrical contact, unless you scrape off the paint at any points of contact.
 That's what I did was remove some paint on bottom edge of shield, now I have a good ground
#39

 Finished today, I am pleased with the way they turned out, the late version 16b cabinet was basket case and has a little distortion  in the sound but plays good on all bands , I spent a lot of time on that one around 25 hours total cab and electric . The early 16b same way on cabinet (Basket) and the chassis was what I called roached out, meaning filthy and rusted. Compare before and after photo and you'll see Icon_eek what I mean, the sound on this one is great and performs well on all bands Icon_clap . This one took a little more time to do , so this will be the end of my story on these relics of the past. (May the force be with you) Icon_shh     Fred Taylor Icon_think                                                                                                                                                                                                 You probably see the deference in grill cloth and maybe Ron can clear this up. The radio on left has Kenny's cloth and radio on right has Radio Daze cloth Icon_wtf


Attached Files Image(s)
                   
#40

Well done Fred! Icon_clap Icon_clap

Crist
#41

Looking good!

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#42

looks great Icon_clap Icon_clap Icon_thumbup
ssam

Some day, and that day may never come, I will call upon you to do a service for me. But until that day, accept this justice as a gift
mafiamen2
#43

The paint does not matter fir the shields as long ss you leave the internal base part bare so it connects to the chassis, the rest you can cover with latex based for all I care as long as you like it.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#44

(06-12-2015, 12:25 PM)morzh Wrote:  The paint does not matter fir the shields as long ss you leave the internal base part bare so it connects to the chassis, the rest you can cover with latex based for all I care as long as you like it.

I mentioned that already and you are right, as long there are grounded good.
#45

Those sure are purty radios! Icon_lol

A minor point:  I thought the knobs on the earlier and later versions were different.




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Road Trip for a Philco 46-480
Good morning, folks! I’ve finished the cabinet and the electrical restoration, and have detailed those in their respecti...jrblasde — 10:56 AM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
Arran, Thanks for checking you manuals. I appreciate that. Let me know what you find. PhilPdouglaski — 08:46 AM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
I have some car radio service manuals, Riders I think (not to be confused with the big blue binders), so I may see if on...Arran — 01:20 AM
Philco model 40-100
Greetings; Here is an update, I found a listing on fleabay for a similar chassis to yours, and it has a photo of what...Arran — 12:58 AM
Philco model 40-100
Greetings; I think I may have found a clue as to what is missing, from a search I made, there is a rear view of the c...Arran — 12:12 AM
Philco model 40-100
I recently acquired a Philco model 40-100 farm (battery) radio. The radio was in very good condition except the red on f...mhamby — 05:59 PM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
Hello, Richard the radio is an AC-2687 Studebaker model. The Philco model is S -5323 and the chassis p/n is S-5523Pdouglaski — 11:52 AM
48-482 rear panel help
The 48-482 is an AC only set as well, featuring a power transformer. While the transformer shouldn’t get “hot”, it is ye...jrblasde — 11:12 AM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
I gave a Chrysler/MoPar car radio from 1954, it was made by Philco, and it uses two chassis, one has the power supply an...Arran — 11:06 AM
48-482 rear panel help
Hello keithchip. You could make a hardboard back for the set, but make sure you provide plenty of ventilation holes in ...GarySP — 11:04 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 2332 online users. [Complete List]
» 3 Member(s) | 2329 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatarAvatar

>