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No matter where you go, there you are.
(This post was last modified: 09-28-2015, 05:07 PM by Jayce.)
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very cool looking radio good luck 
Some day, and that day may never come, I will call upon you to do a service for me. But until that day, accept this justice as a gift
mafiamen2
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That is very cool styling, do you know the house that made it for Sears? I almost bit on a small size Silvertone console this weekend, of course I had no room for it so I am surprised I did not buy it!
Good luck, that set is a looker.
Paul
Tubetalk1
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Hmm, not sure who made it for Sears, but it is a nice design for sure. Got some very good news. After cursing and swearing for a bit tonight, I was finally able to use a jumper to bypass that off-on switch and we had power! The radio passed the transformer test my late friend taught me and then I brought it up slowly, actually getting our local station in fairly loud and clear. Both speakers seem to work, the motor tuner is still alive, though slips in spots like the manual tuning. I'm getting excited as this radio is showing very good signs and it already has a nice sound to it. Might become my daily driver once rebuilt. 
No matter where you go, there you are.
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I am really looking forward to following your progress with this radio. Please post often as you work on it with pictures to illustrate important steps or details. Best of luck, that is a marvelous radio !
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Just found out that Colonial built this unit for Sears. Seems they built the lion's share of the radios for Sears before the war and it seems Crescent took over in the late 40's for a bit. I basically have the top of the line prewar Silvertone now and the top of the line Postwar Silvertone.
No matter where you go, there you are.
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I believe the 6 digit code Silvertone used is 100.XXX for the radio which would make it a Stewart Warner build.
Here we go
http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/sears_roeb_4688.html
Scroll down to numeric list here
http://www.radiomuseum.org/forum/silvert...ogs.html#3
Just a guess but Ill bet that chassis isn't too far away from this beast
http://antiqueradio.org/StewartWarner1865Radio.htm
Lotta good info for you there^^^
(This post was last modified: 09-28-2015, 02:17 PM by JimZ.)
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I believe the model you have there is a 4788. Jim Z is correct as this is a Stewart Warner manufacture. Notice the difference in the cabinet you have versus the 4688. I would say the cabinet is a step up from the 4688. Quite a find.
John
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Stewart Warner is even better! My friend might have gotten confused. Hmm, a 4788? I think mine has 4688 stamped into the back of the cabinet. Now I will have to go check. Pulled the chassis and.. broke a dial cord! Managed to replace it using some string from a cat litter bag of all things! I did find out something though, dial cords are a pain! Pictures and more info to come soon.
Edit: Yep, it IS a 4788! Need to download another schematic and change the title of this thread.
No matter where you go, there you are.
(This post was last modified: 09-28-2015, 04:45 PM by Jayce.)
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I know there is some variation with cabinets..I remembered from a "shorty" Kirk found some months ago.
In the thread youll see the versions I found..not that it matters a whole lot.
http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/view...1&t=275342
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Looked at my schematic again. Seems mine is right smack in the middle. There was a 4688, a 4788, and 4799 listed on the schematic I found.
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Before you know it? Youll be seeing this(with your cabinet)
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc249...1323381898
(This post was last modified: 09-28-2015, 06:28 PM by JimZ.)
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Stewart Warner, nice....................
Paul
Tubetalk1
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It might be a little bit before the unit is going. For one thing, the power-volume control is totally shot. That will need replacing. Luckily all the gearing on the tuner is intact and looks better built than the RCA and GE variants. Probably good as everything, including the manual tuning drives through the motor and the gears. I did find what my tuning issue is though, a rubber cone on the end of the motor shaft. Of course, it's burried in there! Any ideas how to repair this issue? Even the manual tuning needs this:
And, here are a couple more pictures of the chassis removed:
No matter where you go, there you are.
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