[Ron Ramirez]

In May 2012, I acquired a 37-670B from the auction site.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum..._00001.jpg]

Later on, I found a better cabinet (38-2670, identical cabinet) and purchased it. I refinished this cabinet two years ago.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum..._00006.jpg]

In between then and now, I also managed to acquire two extra chassis. One came from a 37-670 console I bought at Kutztown in 2013 just for the chassis.

It was the Kutztown chassis that I decided to restore, as it seemed to be in better shape than the others.

I started working on it right before this year's fall Kutztown meet, and it is now up and running - more or less.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-00002.jpg]

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-00003.jpg]

This chassis had many taper-top (ST) tubes installed, so I decided to populate the remaining sockets with ST tubes as well to give it an "original" appearance.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-00004.jpg]

I even went the "extra mile" and restuffed most of the original paper caps. (Only two that are hidden inside the RF unit were not restuffed.)

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...-00005.jpg]

I gave it a quick alignment today, and it works on all five bands!

Now, I said it "more or less" works. As I began alignment today, the set began to make faint crackling and sizzling sounds intermittently, making crackling noises through the speaker in time with the crackling and sizzling.

I suspect one of the two Candohms is failing, as the power transformer does not seem to be getting excessively hot.

So both Candohms will be getting replaced with individual resistors (and terminal strips) soon.

*****

Somehow in our move across town in Fall 2013, I have managed to misplace the speaker board upon which the grille cloth was mounted. If I can't find it, I shall have to make another from mat board. Fortunately, I have some Philco "Ribbed" repro cloth.

[sam]

wow ron
that looks all original still nice

see kirk  philco 

[Ron Ramirez]

Well, I wasn't feeling very well this morning (or yesterday) so I stayed home today.

The resistors I ordered from Mouser to replace the two Candohms in the 37-670 arrived yesterday. So this afternoon, I decided that some time at the workbench - in moderation - might be good therapy.

After some drilling and grinding, the rivets holding the Candohms were removed. Some unsoldering followed, after which the Candohms themselves were removed and tossed into the round file.

Following some more drilling and soldering, here's how things looked underneath:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum..._00001.jpg]

The power-up test followed.

Voila, no more snap, crackle, pop or sizzle...

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum..._00002.jpg]

That 5600 ohm 10 watt ceramic resistor really gets hot! I think I will replace it later with a 25 watt cylindrical ceramic, or a 50 watt chassis mount unit. But for the time being, I can declare this one "good enough" and can move on to the 38-250EZ.

(This 37-670 is mine, so I can worry about making it more "perfect" later on. At least now I know it works without the sizzling, and I know the power transformer is OK. Whew!)

[Kenneth F. Besso Jr.]

    NICE job<<<

[KCMike]

  Good job Ron as usual. I appreciate the time you take to show your work and why you did it. I have never had to replace the whole canohm before and seeing the way it was done really helps.

[Ron Ramirez]

Thanks, Ken and Mike.

Last night, I pulled the cabinet off the shelf - and, lo and behold, there was the grille cloth backing board, with decent original cloth, stuck inside the cabinet.

So, I put it all together, took a quick "after" photo (below), then unplugged it, disconnected the antenna, and set the complete radio back on the shelf.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum..._00003.jpg]

On to the 38-250EZ...

[klondike98]

Very nice!!

[Nathan Slingerland]

Really beautiful job!

[TA Forbes]

Another fine resto by the PhD (Doctor of Philcology). 

I often will tie two power resistors in parallel in order to achieve the desired R and increase power handling/decrease heat. 

[sam]

ron
cabinet really great 
chassis looks good too
don`t for get to put in 
philcos all a glow  thread   which has not been seen in awhile 

sam

[TA Forbes]

His chassis-work is what impresses me the most. Ron is one of the few who will and CAN take a chassis down to metal frame and tube sockets, rewire all, and have it work!!

[Ron Ramirez]

Thanks, guys!

Tom, you're too kind, thank you. (And it was great to see you again at K-town, by the way!)

Now, mind you, I did not take this one down to the bare chassis. In fact I probably should go back and give the top of the chassis a good cleaning. It isn't too bad, really, but a cleaning would make a difference. And I've been debating on whether or not to replace the speaker wires. The old ones are still in good shape, so I have left them for now.

Sam, I guess I should have taken a photo of the 37-670's dial in the dark. It would be hard to do now, since I've put it back on the shelf where there are no outlets. (Incidentally, both the dial lamp and shadowmeter lamp are LEDs.)

[morzh]

Looking good, Ron.

Feel better.

[Radioroslyn]

Nice job!! But you need to dirty up the filters they look too new.

Terry

[Ron Ramirez]

Mike - Thanks, I am better. I think it was a variation of a stomach virus, without all of the...shall we say, collateral damage.

Terry - Yup, I now have the habit of polishing all of the aluminum electrolytic cans that I rebuild. (And thank you, too.)