Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Cabinet restoration questions / Philco 41-608
#1

Hi,
My first attempt so lots of questions.

I'm wondering your thoughts on using the product Howard Restor-A-Finish.
Which color choice would likely best match the original? I'm thinking that
Walnut-medium brown or possibly the Mahogony.

Do I go over the knob name decals with the product and does it remove or ruin them and would I then put new decals on and have to put some
sort of finsh over them to "seal" them on? They are quite dull at this point.

I'm not familiar with the artifical "photo finish". I think I see what areas are using this... the front surface of the speaker area which has those long
vertical wooden strips. These strips have some sort of horizontal streaks that must simulate a grain. I see this sort of look also above and below the glass dial. Are the two curved and grooved vertical strips on each side of the glass dial real wood?

What about the "inlay" (if that is the correct description) strip of wood or simulated wood, that is on each side of the cabinet about 5 inches from top? How does one handle this part when using the Restor-A-Finish?

One more thought is what is a good, safe way to clean and brighten the
plastic (bakelite?) station pushbuttons and other control knobs?

Thanks very much everyone!

Harlan
#2

Hi Harlan

I've used Howard's Restore-A-Finish before on some cabinets. For the 41-608, I believe you would need the Walnut color.

It will not harm any decals or photofinish.

There is a polish sold by Dremel, for use with a polishing wheel (white felt) Dremel attachment. Or you can try just plain toothpaste, a toothbrush, and a cloth, but this is better for cleaning prior to polishing. The Dremel polish, used with their buffing/polishing felt wheels, will make those bakelite knobs look like new.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
1949 Motorola 5A9M
Nice job on the battery, Bob. Can the box be opened to replace the 9 volters?RodB — 11:32 AM
Philco 46-1209 strange behavior
Thank you for the detailed response MrFixr. To clarify, the hum starts when the tubes are fully warmed up, and goes a...sq65 — 09:15 AM
Philco 46-1209 strange behavior
MrFixr The chassis, if there is no ground pin in the AC plug, due to the Y-caps from L/N to the chassis, is at 60VAC re...morzh — 08:47 AM
schematics
thanks I'll try the polar caps seperatelymseno — 07:38 AM
Philco 46-1209 strange behavior
Hi SQ55, A strange issue indeed!  Just so I have you straight, on a dim bulb you get normal operation after the set warm...MrFixr55 — 12:44 AM
schematics
I think mseno is talking about cap# 27 which is a multisection but in a paper tube. In cases like that I've usually be ...klondike98 — 11:25 PM
schematics
Ohrenet  :roll: For their price I would chase a fly in a field.  :twisted:Vlad95 — 11:21 PM
1949 Motorola 5A9M
A bit more work on the Motorola. I got the repro battery together right up until I realized the snap clips on the top o...klondike98 — 10:45 PM
schematics
Often restuffed. If a twistlock, Hayseed Hamfest makes modern replacements. morzh — 09:18 PM
schematics
Looking for a multi-sectional 8+16 mfd cap. Can't find any suppliers that carry it.mseno — 08:45 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 1200 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 1199 Guest(s)
Avatar

>