[DeckApe]

So!

I've mentioned my recent acquisition of a Philco 40-190 art deco skyscraper in another thread. Here it is, fore and aft:

[Image: http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii66/...before.jpg] [Image: http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii66/...before.jpg]

As you can see, the cabinet's in fundamentally decent shape, after having been refinished (not by myself, but that's okay). The speaker cloth has been replaced, but by all accounts (looking at a couple other 40-190 restoration jobs) the fabric is the right pattern. The speaker is still down at the in-laws, after having been found. It's reported that the metal is lightly rusted, but the paper's pretty harsh (so it's re-coning time, I suspect). I'm also aware that there is a support missing from the interior of the cabinet, used to hold up the lower end of the loop antenna (I'm just glad I have the antenna).

My first steps are to find a decent book on How To Restore the goodies in the chassis (which you may also discern is rusty on the top face...rumor has it this radio lived in a barn for a couple of decades) and to finish up the cosmetic work. This means stripping and repainting the escutcheon (which is black), replacing the decals (the sunburn on the cabinet clues me in that I need the 5/16" Philco label as well as the dial labels, which I have found on-line), and repacing the push-buttons (also readily available). Miracle of miracles, the tuner string is intact and beautifully functional!

My intentions (at least with this first radio) are to restore it to 'functionality.' I'm quite taken with the external appearance of the cabinet, but only you folk and myself are going to know I slipped contemporary parts in. (I may yet hold on to any original capacitors etc. that I remove in case I want to improve my work at a later date, or just have a couple of crash-test capacitors to practice re-stuffing.)

So, y'all, a couple of questions.

(1) The few other restores I've seen of this model are with the wine-colored push buttons; why are mine light brown?

(2) In Your Personal Preferences, does anyone have a good or bad opinion on any particular How To books?

(3) And this is unrelated, at least in the short term: after sifting my way through the technial whatnot, is my understanding of a Variac correct in that it is essentially a variable-voltage-AC-output?

Be gentle with a newbie, good folk, and you may find a new hobbyist on your hands.

[DeckApe]

Oh yes...

(4) There is a green tube around the light bulb that appears to illuminate the pushbuttons. I have NOT powered the unit up for a multitude of reasons, not the least of which being that the absence of speaker makes it pointless. But I can't imagine what the green tube's purpose is. Any help?

[Ron Ramirez]

Hi

1. Translucent wine pushbuttons are correct for 1940 model Philco sets with eight pushbuttons. As they age, they lose their translucence (sp?), and take on a dull brown appearance before they begin to rot away - an unfortunate result of the unstable Tenite plastic used at the time.

2. No opinion.

3. Yes, a variable NON-ISOLATED AC source.

Regarding the green tube. I have never seen nor heard of such a thing in this series of Philco radios (40-150/155/180/185/190). Can you show photos, please?

[exray]

(3) And this is unrelated, at least in the short term: after sifting my way through the technial whatnot, is my understanding of a Variac correct in that it is essentially a variable-voltage-AC-output?

Be gentle with a newbie, good folk, and you may find a new hobbyist on your hands.

This one looks unmolested enough to not have to rewrite the restoration bible again. Get a handful of caps and start replacing them. 95% odds that it will work.

[DeckApe]

Ron--

Here is the odd green tube that is covering the dial/button lamp:

[Image: http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii66/...CF0018.jpg]

I've removed the two center buttons for a better view; the tube appears to be snugged down rather firmly over the bulb.

Unfortunately, the front face and the top of the chassis is covered in that rust which you see along the bottom edge of the photo. I'll probably start on the internals by removing that (gently, of course). Like I say, I was told the radio gave the appearance of having lived in a barn for several years when the folks got it for $25.

[Michael Dennis]

May I speak as another total newbie, rookie, tyro and inexperienced neophyte? I'd say the green tube was added by somebody and was never stock with the radio, but then, being an inexperienced neophyte, tyro, rookie and newbie, I couldn't swear to it in a court of law. But the front of the cabinet looks a lot better than my unrestored and newly accquired 42-1008. Best of luck in the restoration! What type tubes are used?

Mike

[DeckApe]

I'm thinking the green tube is also a 'modification,' especially since the dial face is brown and is unlikely to be enhanced by the green light. Tube-wise, the Mighty 190 is an 8-tube set, numbered and marked on the schematic as follows:

1232 R.F.
7J7 Det.-Osc.
7B7 I.F.
7A6 2nd Det. A.V.C.
7C6 1st Audio
41 Output (two on the chassis)
84 Rect.

Aside from having only briefly had an introduction to radio theory for a week back in college, the terminology has loooooong slipped my mind (I majored in Marine Transportation, not Electronics).

[Michael Dennis]

Thanks, DeckApe. I'm sure that radio of yours will sound great with those (2) type 41 tubes. My 42-1008 has them also.

Mike

[DeckApe]

The neophyte journey continues... thus far I have obtained a fresh set of buttons, the corner chassis mounts, a new cord, and two sets of decals (for when I mess up the first application).

I've also been surfing eBay for photos of the Mighty 190, in particular a close-up of the face to indicate which decal variations belong on this model.

MAN, there are a lot of beautiful Philcos out there! The Mystery Control units are the most intriguing to me, but far beyond my capabilities at this point. I am, however, considering acquiring a 'junker' to practice on before I let the smoke out of my console. Spotted a roll-top unit that is listed as a part-out job... I might pursue that, as it was fairly modestly priced. But I'm going to keep watching for a 40-180/185/190 chassis to crash and bang with, just in case... I mean, talk about your ultimate trainer! I might also take the opportunity to experiment with heat-shrink versus outright replacement.

[gary rabbitt]

Hi,
Just a note on painting the escutcheon. They were painted and not polished as you probably know. Many models used this same part.
I have found that Plasti-Kote makes a color that very closely matches the original. It's the small can of Odds 'n' Ends line. number 139S Brass. You should be able to find it at your local Lowes or big box importer, for around $2.50.

I'd strip off that black paint, I hope no one has sanded the metal, If they did, you will have to remove the sanding marks before painting. Paint usually doesn't do a good job on filling scratches in. You shouldn't need any primer either. Just make sure the part is very clean and all the old paint is out of the grooves.

Don't try to load it up with paint on the first coat. Light coats work best.
This Brass color is not mirror-like some "gold tone" paints. I think you will like it, and it is inexpensive.

You mentioned you did not power up because of having no speaker. Please don't power up even if an old set has a speaker unless you make a good inspection first, then use a "dim bulb" tester or variac.
There is a good bit of info here on Ron's site I recommend to those who are just starting out in the hobby.

http://www.philcoradio.com/tech/plugin.htm

Good luck on the restore

[DeckApe]

Gary--already read that page and believe me, I have NO intention of firing up (perhaps not a great choice of words!) the unit without inspecting for damage, and even then I will only attempt it with some form of power limiter. Also I have no intention of having the chassis sitting in the cabinet when I attempt it, just in case something catastrophic happens.

GOLD PAINT: I have a can of "ColorPlace" (from Mall-Wart ) that happens to be residing in my paint locker... it's their gold, #20013. The cap is a dull gold color but I'll definitely fire off a test-shot before I go for the escutcheon. Anyone have comments as to this paint being the 'right' gold?

No sanding here--I'd figured either a chemical strip or the wire wheel on my Dremel, which doesn't leave very much of a mark at all.

"CRASH TEST" RADIO: Anacortes has its annual "Shipwreck Day" coming up this Saturday, which is a big ol' flea market downtown (they close off Commercial Avenue, our Main Street, for the day) where anyone can put up a table and sell whatever. I think I'll look there for a CHEAP Philco chassis to have a go at before I attempt the Mighty 190. And if all else fails, there are some cute table-top models available on Our Favorite Auction Site.

[DeckApe]

So, I received my packet of knowledge from Mr. Schwark today, and I found it to be very enlightening in some respects; but it left me with a new question. (I have a feeling there's going to be a lot of those in the coming months, like how to read those odd resistors with the flat body and the three color-coded dots on them.)

So, today's question: does anyone have any hints where I would find the "run number" on my set? I've read the production change information about the 40-190 and, judging from the tube label on the cabinet, I have a run number of 1, 2, 3, or 8 (or later).

Thank you all for indulging a neophyte. With any luck I'll get up early enough tomorrow to go to the city-wide garage sale and even luckier, I'll find a 'junker' Philco to work on as a practice set.

[DeckApe]

No luck at the city "Shipwreck Day." The local folk who used to set up garage-sale tables and offload their junk have largely been overtaken by the dealers of junk etc., which tends to kill off the joy of the hunt. I shall keep looking.

[DeckApe]

I'd strip off that black paint, I hope no one has sanded the metal, If they did, you will have to remove the sanding marks before painting...

BLAST! Someone (presumably the same heathen who painted it black) has in fact sanded the face plate.

[Image: http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii66/...CF0019.jpg]
You can see the sanding marks, and this is a low-res photo. (The lower right corner has been attacked with a wire wheel and a Dremel moto-tool.) BUT... on the inner ring of the dial hole, the original Philco gold shines through and gives me something to shoot for! (And I suppose I ought to mount the new buttons while the face plate's off--at least make it LOOK good. )

So, ladies and gentlemen, does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the sanding skid marks off my escutcheon? (Now I'm wishing I'd picked up that one I saw on eBay for $1... )

[DeckApe]

The latest: the escutcheon plate has been repainted, and the new buttons have been installed. I didn't spot the dent until it cropped up in the photo. Next up, the decals. And I head down to the in-laws tomorrow to reclaim the speaker (or at least we think it's the right one... they had a couple of console units). Then it's a matter of fabricating a new brace for the bottom antenna mount... THAT ought to be fun... and then I can finally start in on the electronics!

[Image: http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii66/...CF0020.jpg]