Have been working on this set for a few days over the last week or two. Probably the dirtiest chassis I've worked on in a long time. Looks like it was caught in a close dryer lint trap!! After a cursory cleaning it seems that it had seen a fair amount of service work done long ago perhaps in the late '30s. Lots of bakelite blocks bypassed with outside paper caps and a three or four dry electrolytics.
This made for some head scratching as some were not connected in same that the originals were. The 4 section electrolytic had all of it's terminals severed off but I was able to use the top half of the original can and mated it with a newer twist loc bottom section. In the former repair the four section cap was bypassed by using quarter and half mic paper caps. Some terminal strips were added.
Rebuilding the bakelites was compound by the fact that all of the eyelets were filled with solder so had to drill to clean them up so they could except the new caps. According to the Rider's it was missing one of the blocks, above the 80 socket. Must be a different run than the one in Rider's. Also couldn't find the resistor across the shadow meter, this was removed in later runs. While doing the caps measured the resistor to find most were in good shape. Did find one 100K 2w that was 180K. Left it in didn't have one so it's one the when I place an order list.
Powered it up and as per usual it kinda worked. Dial light rubber insulator was shot it got replaced w/a nylon washer of the appropriate size. Was a little surprised to see that the dial lamp and the shadow meter lamp were not connected in parallel at the sockets, six wire in all for it and the sm coil. Times must have been good at Philco! Poor sensitivity so tested the tubes. All tested great except for 3 #78 (rf and if amps) and 2 #77(mixer and 1st audio). Have the 77's sent a note the Bob D for some good used 78's. Got 4 for $15 delivered. 42's look like originals. Popped those in place and worked alot better. With that did the IF alignment which was giving me a problem only to find that I had the generator on the wrong band. Every time I moved the dial on the radio the IF signal would go away DUH!!.
Surprisingly enough the shadow meter is good and works however the dial is worn and difficult to read so it's going on the order list too. At some point I may pull the aluminum coil covers and transformers to clean and paint them they still pretty grubby.Had it connected to the Eletrolux ant and was picking signal all over. Turned off the modulation on the generator and used it as a bfo to demodulate some ssb and cw signal on the 75m band. All seem to work well. Still have a few issuses to address. Needs dial, grommets for the tuning cap, 100k resistor, 2 speed dial reducer needs a good service.and a good cleaning. Think I'll wait till I get into the two other 116X's till I order.
Chassis is very similar to the 660L. One 116 down two to go!!
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 06-10-2018, 05:59 PM by Radioroslyn.)
Seems like I'm getting pretty good on these style chassis. I just about know what all the parts under the chassis do.
I need to get a Life!!!!
Kinda wish that the 116X had the variable bandwidth control and would make a prefect set!
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 06-15-2017, 04:34 PM by Radioroslyn.)
If memory serves my correctly TAF has an earlier 116B w/a 116X chassis and spkr in it. Chassis is abt the same just heavier (bigger pt and op toobs) but the spkr is a 14".
Actually the answer is the 680 but didn't make/sell many of those sets.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Started in replacing the tuning cap grommets and while I was at it dissembled the planetary reduction drive. Cleaned it up replaced the ball bearings (by accident) and reassembled it and all of the dial assembly. http://www.philcorepairbench.com/dial-dr...0-660-680/ After which I found that the arrow mask was too low and needed an alignment. Normally this would have precipitated the removal just about all the stuff just got thru putting back and realigning the dial.
I found that if a ground out a bit of the band mask and tuned the band selector to either end it would expose the screws the hold the arrow mask. Hope this will save someone a few minuets.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 11-17-2018, 04:54 PM by Radioroslyn.)
After I got the dial all back together I wanted to check the shadow meter. I tried to follow the connection back to under the chassis but the layout on this one slightly different than the diagram. I ended up cutting the wires for the coil and measuring the resistance. Was abt 523 ohms but it didn't appear the be working. Popped it apart to find that it was pretty dirty and fuzzy inside. Surprise! You may remember the
picture of this set [Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/attachment.php?aid=13455] Fuzzy little bugger!
Gave the sm a good cleaning and it was back working. On this style of sm there's a thumbscrew on the back. This sets the amount of defection and sensitivity of the vane. Screwing it inward increases the amount of defection. If screwed in too much the vane just swings from side to side. If screwed out too much you get a limited response from the vane (not much movement, small shadow). After tweaking the lamp into the proper position it's making a nice shadow where tuning in a station.
Next was another cleaning. The first time I got a lot of the dust and fuzz out but still was kinda grungy. Removed the aluminum coil covers for IF and RF coils and with the aid of a couple of Scotch Bright pads and WD-40 I was able to remove all the dirt and most of the corrosion. Inside the coils more fuzz. The power transformer top, the filter choke, and driver transformer got a cleaning and paint job. Over all it's looking much better!
The speaker took a trip over the bridge to NJ to see Rich Stamer (Sound Remedy). It sounded ok but at low volume the vc was rubbing on the pole causing some distortion and at high levels there was a buzz, might be a loose spider. In between the extremes it sound great!
While I was servicing the chassis the volume failed (open at the ground end) so I couldn't lower the volume much. Called Mark and got a replacement.
On the cabinet the baseboard was badly delaminated and I thought I might be able to reconstruct it but it was a lost cause. Steve "the tool man" Davis was contacted and said he thought he could reproduce one for me. The original was sent to MO.
Kenny Richmond got an order for some chevron grille cloth.
It's all coming together.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 11-15-2018, 02:04 PM by Radioroslyn.)
The 116 survived the cleaning, I was a little concerned as there was some disassembly to the aluminum parts and iron off and back on. Since the speaker is in NJ being repaired I grabbed a U7 speaker from the 200X. Plugged it in and played fine (amazingly enough).
On a sad note I was listening to WSB out of Nashville and they reported that Roy Clark had passed today he was 85. RIP
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 11-16-2018, 10:08 AM by Radioroslyn.)
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
The reconed spkr came in today. The good news is that Sound Reamieds did a great job on the recone and the price was as advertised ($45+ shipping). The bad news is (no I didn't poke a hole in it!) I still have a buzz @ moderate volume and low frequencies (bass notes). At this point I'm leaning towards a bad output transformer. Have a loose Hammond 125E that I'm going to give a try to hear if that fixes it. The VC impedance on the 8"spkr is a bit lower than the early 116B like Bob's. The 125E would be a better match for the older rather than the late 116B.
Off to warm up the soldering iron...
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Not hum. More like a pop/buzz at low frequencies. Just got me thinking my 660L had a arcing 42 socket between pin 1 and 2 (heater to plate). Will look for carbon traces on socket. I could plug this spkr into the 660 and see what happens.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
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