[JRP3Orion]

Stripped most of the cabinet with work still to be done, but wanted to share my progress.  I utilized a citrus stripper initially but it was messy and not as strong.  I ended using a 1:1 acetone/lacquer thinner mix and that worked well.  Any recommendations as to best finish.  I read through the different threads and there are so many options.  Also, was thinking about sanding to a polish and using a finishing wax. thoughts?

[PhilcoPhan1936]

I use Constantine's paste filler to fill in the grain. Walnut toned. Scrape the excess off with a plastic putty knife, then sand lightly.
Others can advise as to the proper color toner to use. Probably Perfect Brown or Medium Walnut by Mohawk.
Personally I prefer a semi-gloss or matt finish, but others prefer a gloss finish. I have both lacquer finishes also from Mohawk.

[KCMike]

You might not be able to find Constantine's grain filler anymore.
I was going to order some from Constantine's web site and it's no longer available there.

[PhilcoPhan1936]

This might be a good replacement grain filler.

https://www.hardwareworld.com/pec0rr1/In...aWEALw_wcB

[Ron Ramirez]

No, the "Natural" would be way too light. It needs to be walnut or dark walnut for the correct appearance.

When I discovered a year or two ago that I could no longer get the walnut grain filler from Constantines, I bought a can of walnut Behlen Pore-O-Pac filler. It works as well as the Constantine's filler did. I just don't remember where I bought it from...

[PhilcoPhan1936]

It says in the product description: "This product is intended for interior use on open grain woods such as oak, ash and mahogany.  Woodgrain Filler is natural in color, but is best used when intermixed with a solvent-based wood stain to obtain desired colors."

So I thought it might be a good substitute, if it was indeed combined with the proper stain color, as they recommend.

But, once I run out of the Constantine's I have, I'll look for what you recommend Ron, thanks.

Edit: found one place that carries several different flavors of the one you recommend Ron:

https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/...hDEALw_wcB

[Radioroslyn]

You may want to before you grain fill it give it a coat or three of sanding sealer. Some reasons are applying grain filler to bare wood tends to darken it,  gives you a buffer zone so were lightly sanding it's slightly less possible to sand thru the veneer, and if you don't like how it's turning out it makes the grain filler much easier to remove.

GL

[JRP3Orion]

I appreciate the quick feedback. I will definitely look into the grain filler and sealers. I would like to finish it as close to original look as possible.

[Ron Ramirez]

+1 what Terry said

[Ron Ramirez]

Jeff

I tried some "Natural" grain filler once. It looked awful. Whitish-gray.

Then I tried mixing some stain with it. The results were disastrous. The can went into the garbage. Wasted money.

I wasn't trying to argue, no, not at all. It's simply a case of "been there, done that".

[PhilcoPhan1936]

Jeff

I tried some "Natural" grain filler once. It looked awful. Whitish-gray.

Then I tried mixing some stain with it. The results were disastrous. The can went into the garbage. Wasted money.

I wasn't trying to argue, no, not at all. It's simply a case of "been there, done that".

Thanks for the clarification Ron . That's good info to know. When it comes to it, I'll go with your recommendation of the Behlen product.

[Radioroslyn]

+1 Ron,
I did the same thing several yrs ago. Used some water based pigments to color it wasn't pretty! I think the only thing I would consider natural filler is a blond cabinet. Come to think of maybe it would work to filler in light colored lettering on bakelite, got a qt of it that I'll probably never use.

I get my supplies from :https://www.westlunddistributing.com/touch-up-finish/finishing.html
Seems like the prices are good but their online catalog is awful, doing just abot any search brings up everything they sell. I will look up the idem # in a Mohawk catalog and then plug it into the Westlund search.
Sandpaper can added up cost wise too. For 3M wet/dry is abt $1 a sheet. Grits that work well in my hands are 320 or 400 and 600. Sometimes a good deal can be had on epay, recently I got 50 sheets for $28 free shipping. Make sure about the sizes some seller are selling 1/2 sheets or smaller. Full sheet is 8 1/2x 11" or so. A rubber sanding block is a good thing to have too  to get a nice flat surface.