[tubenutt]

Hey guys, I'm working on my 16-B right now, and I've finished rebuilding all the bakelite "condensers". Now, it's time for that big...okay, it's NOT square, it's rectangular...tin can full of .5 to 2 mfd capacitors. I would like to keep the tin can and just restuff it, so I can maintain the original look on the top of the chassis. Any pointers from the ones who went before me? I also want to keep the original terminals, and keep the wiring intact. Is it possible and/or advisable??

[exray]

This isn't a Philco cap but it might give you some ideas. I used a piece of scrap Plexiglas but you could use most anything that is a good insulator.

-Bill

Note from site admin: Sorry, but the photo which was attached to this post is no longer available.

[tubenutt]

Thanks for the help, Exray! I'm just coming to that big rusty-looking can.As per your picture, I suppose this means I WILL have to undo those wires!
No matter, as long as I Pan-code them! lol Got the ancient little Pan Code booklet....I have a long piece of phenolic board (WITH LONG TWIN ROWS OF TERMINALS!!) that would do for the base.
I see what your doing, okay. That plexi looks SPIFFY! That's the same type caps that will go into my re-build. The two 2mfd. anyway. The 1 Mfd is cobbled up out of two .5s. Once I get that can off, I'm assuming it will come apart so I can re-paint and re-use the ugly piece of rust!
I've always admired your work, especially the home-brew stuff. It always looks professional.
But enough of the hero worship.
And I'm always glad to have somebody willing to (through the Phorum and the internet anyway!) rub shoulders with me at the bench. It helps, believe me! Your are always good ones.

[exray]

Hint: Lay them out and give them a dry run for fit before going too far. That 1.0 (second from left) barely fit in my can after adding back the insulating pieces.

Good luck!

[tubenutt]

I'm done with the "condenser bank", as far as the caps. That was waaaaay easier than I figured on! I had to mount my caps on end, but I got 'em all on the old board, with room on the sides to get the can back on the bottom piece.
I've decided not to solder the negatives to the can, as they originally were. That can doesn't appear to offer a solid ground like it did when everything was new. So I',m going to run a wire from inside of the can to the center tap of the HV windings, where the tall round filters are grounded.
Next is to paint the can first with primer for rusty metal, then I have some silver paint called 'chrome' paint. yeah, RIGHT! But it might do for tin plate simulation. It's too early and cool here to paint, and I don't have the caps to replace the round filters yet, but all that should be in the mail today. Along with my order of #46 lamps. I can't find the number of the lamps in the schematics, just the part numbers. They SHOULD BE #46s, since the schematics to my 19LZ specifies them, and it's the same setup with shadow meter and dial scale lamps.
I'm coming up the home stretch! Finish the filters, install a new old-looking line cord, and I'll be able to blow it up!! Er, BOOT it up!