[jjbuzard]

I started out using a Radio Shack 40 watt soldering iron with onbaord desoldering bulb, it seemed to take forever to heat the solder up to the melting point, and in the process heating everything next to it got hot, then I switched to a 100/140 watt soldering gun, the solder melts much quicker and I don't get everything so HOT, I then use the RS iron with desoldering bulb at the same time to suck away the solder. Can someone give me pointers on this, and is it better to use the 100/140 gun as it heats the solder quicker :

[Ron Ramirez]

You will get as many opinions as there are people on this Phorum about soldering guns/irons...but here's my opinion:

A 40 watt pencil is way too small for average radio work. A 100/140 watt gun is, I think, a very good choice to repair old radios.

Personally, I use a Craftsman 150/230 watt gun. I used to use Weller, but the ones made in recent years do not hold up under heavy use anymore as the older ones did. The Craftsman guns last longer, so that is what I use...

[BILL]

I started out with my dad's old Weller it must have been 40+ years old, the new Weller won't last a year! , Found a heavy duty Weller ,used ,at a flea market It's been working good , Why does EVERYTHING now a days seam to not hold up and can't be repaired?!!I'm even driving a 1954 Plymouth, for the last 24 years, how many other "new" car have people gone through in that same time!

[jjbuzard]

I have a WEN model 100 (100 watt) which is probabily 40 + years old, it gets HOT instantly, I also have a Miller Falls 100/140 watt which is also at least 40 years old. Both work nice and the local hardware store carries tips for both.

Bill you said Why does EVERYTHING now a days seam to not hold up and can't be repaired?!! it is because the majority of people wants things cheaper and cheaper, (don't care about quality) so we go to WalMart for crap made in Asia and there go our American jobs. I was reading about "Pete and Jakes" Hot Rod parts, they are located in Missori and he buys all his components he needs in the USA because he said " I can get in my car and drive to Kansas or Illinois to the supplier and look at what he is making, I can't drive to China to look at the crap they make, so I buy USA. And so it goes, we are all at fault to some extent.

But I digress, I will keep using my antiques because you and Ron said that was the thing to do, the small pencil ones are for circuit boards, transistors and computer stuff. 8)

Thanks for helping me decide I wasn't hurting anything with the BIG GUNS, I just assumed (hate that word) that the quicker it got hot the less chance of frying something ajacent.

Thanks, is this a great site or what

[exray]

Here I use a Weller SP40 (40 watt) pencil iron for 99% of my work. Its got a 1/4" flat chisel tip and transfers heat well to the big old lugs. And the body doesn't get hot like some of the cheapo pencils.

I also have one of those Weller 100/140 guns but I rarely pull it out for anything. No solder sucker here. I've never been co-ordinated enough to make comfortable use of one

[Joe Rossi]

40 watt Weller iron used here, with a solder sucker. No problem with overheating components.

[Chuck Schwark]

I use and Edsyn "Loner" Model CL1080 for 95% of my work, with a variety of tip sizes.
There's two at work in my shop as well in daily use. 9w to 70w temp controlled.
( http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=piw&pn=CL1080 )

But, I do have two "real" Weller 8200's (tip hex nuts, not screws) and
a Weller D550 (older version), for when I really, REALLY need to solder.

I'm about ready to order a new case for the D550 though; too many chunks missing.

Chuck

[jjbuzard]

When I was ready to install the new transformer and Audio Output Coil, I decided to try a 40 watt soldering iron from Radio Shack, I wasn't impressed with the 40 watter w/desoldering bulb, too much metal to heat up, I also bought their mechanical desoldering tool. The 40 watt iron is very inexpensive, under $10.00, but heats up quickly, holds steady temperature and the handle remains relatively cool, and the mechanical desoldering tool works very well, it is shaped like a long cylinder about 6" long and 1/2" in diameter, easy to arm and trigger. I was really happy with both.

[wu8v]

I know this topic is pretty old, but I just found it, and I thought that I wouldl throw in my own 2 cents.

I have been harvesting components from all sorts of stuff for many years, and there is one trick that usually seems to work on a stubborn joint.

The addition of a little new flux seems to help the old solder flow easier, and if you don't have a flux pen or liquid flux around, believe it or not, add a bit more solder! The new flux in the solder that you add should help the old solder flow a bit better so that you can remove it more easily.

73,
Kurt

[codefox1]

Aye. I always dab a bit of "new" solder on the tip to both provide a better transfer of heat, and a film of flux to the joint I want to loosen. And I use cheap 99 cents irons for recycling old parts and other thermal excavations of wax, tar, and the like. The tips foul, and I file them down, and when they are gone, I toss the poor little thing.

I have a lamp dimmer gizmo on my bench to tame irons for delicate work.