Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 16B
#1

Hi all
I have two questions on a Philco 16 B cathedral:
1 Is the top/sides walnut?
2 Does the grain run from front to back?
I have a cabinet that needs the veneer replaced (it has been removed by someone else Icon_sad ) I have never put veneer on a cabinet but have to try sometime I guess. Icon_biggrin
So wish me luck Icon_rolleyes

Joe

Joe Bratcher near Louisville, KY
#2

Hi Joe

Yes, and yes.

Let us know how it goes putting the veneer on the top/sides, OK? It seems as if it would be easy to apply veneer with the grain running vertically, but not so horizontally (front to back).

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#3

Man I am having trouble finding walnut with the grain going the correct direction. Icon_sad
Has anyone ever ordered any veneer. I have contacted two places and no luck but I will keep hoping Icon_confused

Joe

Joe Bratcher near Louisville, KY
#4

Yesterday evening, I had my very first experience applying self-sticking veneer to a 44B cathedral cabinet. The grain is running the wrong way (side to side instead of front to back), but the owner didn't care as long as it had new veneer. It isn't the easiest stuff in the world to work with.

Make sure you have a small roller tool if you use this type of veneer. I didn't, and have a few small air bubbles left that I can't get to completely press down. Icon_confused Icon_sad At least I managed to line it up correctly so that there is no gap anywhere between the front arch and the new veneer.

The owner of this cabinet furnished the veneer; I do not know the source. I do know that I have not yet seen any veneer you can buy that has the gran running in the direction we need that you can buy in the extra wide widths that would be required for a continuous sheet to go around a cathedral cabinet.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#5

Ron--any way you can lance the bubbles with a very thin knife blade to 'burp' the veneer, a la wallpaper?
#6

I don't recommend that, because then you have to fill the cut with wood putty, which will show afterwards. (I know because I tried, and it didn't work. Then I had to fill the cut with wood putty.)

However, I discovered a trick today: I had bought an old iron at a yard sale this past weekend for 50 cents. I purchased this specifically to iron veneer onto substrate, in order to speed the setting time. I learned this from watching a video made by "Hagstar" John H.:

http://hagstar.phanfare.com/slideshow.as...id=3128328

I've been slacking off on my studies this week to work on a Philco 44B cabinet, as mentioned previously. The cabinet was in really bad shape, and the grillework was delaminating badly. I used my yard sale iron to help glue the veneer back onto the front panel and front arch.

Anyway, figuring I had nothing to lose, I decided to try using the iron on the side of the cabinet where some air bubbles were showing.

It worked! It seems to have made the air bubbles go down.

I turned the iron temperature all the way up when using it on the cabinet. The iron does not scorch or burn the wood if you work carefully.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#7

Hi Ron
Is the selfsticking veneer really wood or is it some plastic stuff?? Icon_confused I was going to suggest the knife job but you answered before I asked. Icon_smile I am going to still look for a while but may be forced to do something else. Icon_sad
Joe

Joe Bratcher near Louisville, KY
#8

It's really wood, and it's thin enough that it bends quite easily. In fact when my friend whom I am repairing the 44B cabinet for brought the veneer over here, it was rolled up in a box.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#9

Another good option is the paper backed veneer. Paper backed veneer is available 48 by 96 inch sheets, so you can run the grain from front to back. I have purchased veneer from this fellow on Ebay and have received good service http://cgi.ebay.com/120533411147 A sheet this size will do several radios, so you might be able to share with someone else.
Steve

M R Radios   C M Tubes
#10

Hi Steve
Thanks for the info on the veneer, and he is here in Louisville, I sent him an email to see if I could pick it up local.
thanks for the tip
Joe

Joe Bratcher near Louisville, KY




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 38-7 Speaker
4-ohm speaker. Black, Green leads.tludka — 07:00 PM
Philco 42-390, code 121 speaker
#87 on the schematic.  This radio had a 8" Zenith  speaker attached to it when I got it. I do don't know the hist...Stevelog — 06:39 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
I'm pretty sure I now have the litz wire soldered. This did not make any difference. Back in April I rewound the seconda...dconant — 06:25 PM
Philco 38-7 Speaker
Just to make sure, you chose either 4 ohm into 5K or into 10K? (blk-org or blk-grn)morzh — 06:23 PM
Philco 38-7 Speaker
I have let this one sit because of other duties. Now I am back, and I have a couple of questions. I hooked up a Hammond ...tludka — 05:34 PM
Philco 42-390, code 121 speaker
>>A closer examination of the very small print schematic indicates that the speaker is a PM type. This shows a ...morzh — 05:18 PM
Philco 60 Squealing
Litz is typically tinned by simply rubbing it with the soldering iron tip while immersed in solder (and a bit of rosin f...morzh — 05:14 PM
Philco 6K7
The suppressor grid (if by G3 you mean the S) is usually at the Cathode potential, which in this caes is GND. I am not ...morzh — 05:10 PM
Philco 16B Parts
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately the radio was removed before bidding was over so I didn't get a chance to bid.dconant — 04:10 PM
Philco 16B Parts
Hi Dan, Mike is correct, there's a lot of painted stuff on the chassis but it looks pretty good. The sm is all there,sp...Radioroslyn — 03:50 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 3077 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 3075 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>