[ptaylor56]

Hi all. I am new here, so hopefully i am in the right place. I have this Philco Lowboy model 96 that was apparently built and/or sold in Canada. It is is pretty nice physical condition, but when my wife plugged it in to see if it is working, it pops the breaker in the breaker cabinet. With the help of the Phorum team, they advised me that I need to look at replacing the capacitors at minimum. The team provided me with a schematic, but I don't see any capacitors listed. What am I missing? Are all components available for purchase? I would love to get this working! Thanks everyone ... Peter

[Arran]

Some of the capacitors are mounted in a metal box on top of the chassis, whilst others are inside of Bakelite blocks that have wires and resistors connected to the terminals on top. Given that it seems to immediately pop the circuit breaker it could be a simple as a short inside the power cord.
Regards
Arran

[ptaylor56]

Hi, Arran. Thanks very much for the direction and advice. I will take a look at the power cord and see how it looks. Cheers!

[morzh]

Peter,

first welcome.

Second, tell your wife to never plug anything that she does not know whether it works or it doesn't, in. And don't do that yourself either.
This was a violation of one of the bigest No-nos of antique radios, and anything antique, rules.


Now, this is the link to the thread of my restoration of a 96 Hiboy that I have very recently (spring of the last year) finished.

https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthrea...=philco+96

Keep in mind (I do not know if you have experience in these matters): this is a serious project and can take a while.
And tube electronics is inherently dangerous if disrespected.


Now.

1. Unplug the speaker (it is a regular Philco round backelite plug in the back, on thetop surface), and measure

Look in this article.
https://philcoradio.com/library/index.ph...-21-70-90/

Use the bottom figure (Speaker wiring diagram for Model 90 with 2-45 or 2-47 outputs). Pay attention to all it says.
Measure the field coil first. Make sure it shows about 3kOhm.
Note: 1. The pins could be oxidized and not show continuity even if there is one. Make sure you really provide good contact of your meter and the pins.
2. Try to not touch these with both hands when measuring. As a kid I got a little but unpleasant shock when doing it with an analog meter. Inductance, you know.

If the coil is open, you have a problem. Likely you will need a new speaker.

3. If the coil is OK, now measure the transformer, both halves of the primary. Should be on the order of 300 Ohms or so. If open, it is not as bad as having an open coil, but you will need a replacement transformer.

If the speaker, or at least the Field coil of it, is good, proceed, otherwise stop: you will need to discuss your options.

2. Take the knobs off.
3. Remove the chassis, put in on your bench.
4. Remove all tubes. ALL.
5. Make sure your power cord is not shorted/frayed/cracked. Turn the ON switch clockwise, hear the click. Measure ohms across the prongs. (again, try to keep the hands from touching). Make sure you provide good connection, rub the leads agains prongs if needed.
- If open, check the switch (you will have to open the chassis from the bottom).
- If the switch is bad, look up my thread, it should tell you what to do (spray contact cleaner in thos small openings in the switch's wafer)
- If good, nake sure the trensformer is not open.

If your trasformer / cord / switch are good, or you fixed it that it has continuity, you should now use a Variac.
6. Using a Variac. Or (oh my Gosh, I can't believe I am saying this) DimWit Tester. OK, ,Dim Bulb tester.
I only am mentioning the latter because I can see you are new to this and probably lack the equipment.
Variac - connect the variac to the wall outlet, set to 0V.
Plug in the chassis.
Put a Voltmeter across the filament pins of the Rectifier tube (80).
Turn on the Variac and slowly turn the knob CW, watch the Voltmeter. The voltage should start rising to a few voltas (5V at 110V setting).
If it is OK, you can exhale, your transformer is good. If you hear loud buzz, see the variac fuse pop or the Variac itself not raising the output voltage oy its own meter, your transformer is bad.


Let's stop here.
I think it is enough for the start.

Mike.

[RodB]

If you have the chassis out of the cabinet, take a photo of the underside and we can point out the capacitors and other things.

[glyphmon]

Peter,

Since I am new also, I'll just add something basic that I don't see has been mentioned so far, but if you're looking at the part list and diagram of the chassis, capacitors are also referred to as condensers.  There tend to be four types in these radios and of them, two, electrolytic and paper and wax tubular capacitors are the ones that are pretty much guaranteed to need replacing.

Best wishes,
Roy

[ptaylor56]

Thank you everyone for your amazing responses. Now I have to decide next steps. Have an awesome day everyone!

[morzh]

Make sure you do not damage the grillcloth. This is the original, it is in good shape and there is no reproduciton.

[ptaylor56]

Hi everyone. After significant review, I have decided to not attempt to repair this model 96. I assuming there are buyers out there who would want to take this project on, so I will check out online sales options in the local Calgary marketplace. Thank you all so much for your help and support.

[morzh]

Here's the thing. As big and intimidating it might look, it is pretty simple to restore.
It is big and has large parts and large spaces. And requires little alignment.
Popping breaker is a concern but can easily be figured out.

But if this presents too much challenge, my heartfelt advice is, don't try anything else, as the superhets, and, God forbit, AA5 are more complicated and (AA5) more dangerous.
Nothing wrong with admitting this hobby is not for you. We all have things we don't do. I, for instance, don't do cabinets and cars.