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Philco 16B inter-station noise suppression question
#1

I have a Philco 16 code 121 cathedral set. I am trying to undo some previous repair attempts. There is an inter-station noise suppression adjustment on the back of the chassis which seems to do nothing when I turn it. There are also two black wires coming out of the top of the chassis (far left side from rear view just in front of the two electrolytic capacitors) which I THINK should go to a toggle switch (missing). Those two wires are connected to no switch at present. Should I tie the ends of those wires together to simulate a closed switch?

Also, is a good schematic available for the model 16 code 121 and is there a parts list available that actually shows the values of capacitors and resistors? The one in my Rider's does not.
Thanks,
Mark
#2

Hi
Have you tried Nostalgia Air? They have a schematic it is hard to read in some places but is all I have. Yes there is supposed to be a toggle switch to turn the feature on and off, one of the wires should connect to the cathode of the Q.A.V.C 78 tube and the other wire goes to ground. If that is where the wires go yes you can tie them togather to turn on the feature, then the feature should work and the control on the back will set the threshold for the stations to come thru. Hope this helps Joe

Joe Bratcher near Louisville, KY
#3

Have you tried Chuck Schwark? For only $7 you will receive all of the available service info for your Model 16, including an enlarged (11" x 17") schematic, parts list, all available production changes.

http://www.philcorepairbench.com/schematics.htm

Come on, guys, help support a fellow Phorum member. Icon_smile

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Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#4

Thanks for the reminder, Ron. I have gotten schematics and info from Chuck in the past and I will contact him regarding this set.
#5

w4rtc Wrote:Hi
Have you tried Nostalgia Air? They have a schematic it is hard to read in some places but is all I have. Yes there is supposed to be a toggle switch to turn the feature on and off, one of the wires should connect to the cathode of the Q.A.V.C 78 tube and the other wire goes to ground. If that is where the wires go yes you can tie them togather to turn on the feature, then the feature should work and the control on the back will set the threshold for the stations to come thru. Hope this helps Joe

Where was the toggle switch attached . I don't see any hole (filled or otherwise) in the cathedral cabinet (It has been refinished) or obvious place on the chassis where a toggle switch may have resided.
Thanks,
Mark
#6

Mark, the toggle switch would have been mounted on the right side (as you face the front) about half way up and near the back of the wrap around.

Steve

M R Radios   C M Tubes
#7

Steve Davis Wrote:Mark, the toggle switch would have been mounted on the right side (as you face the front) about half way up and near the back of the wrap around.

Steve

Steve, Could you clarify the location a bit more for me. Do you mean the right side of the cabinet? What is the "wrap around"?
If the switch was mounted on the cabinet I'll have to search carefully for a filled hole because I sure don't see one on a casual look.
Thanks,
Mark
#8

Hi
The switch is 9 inches from bottom of cabinet and 1 inch from back of cabinet. Here is a picture of the switch.


[Image: http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad118...switch.jpg]

Hopes this helps.
Joe

Joe Bratcher near Louisville, KY
#9

I took my cabinet out in bright sunlight and I can see where a hole was very carefully filled with a matching plug of wood. It's a nearly invisible repair which I assume was done when the cabinet was refinished. Thanks for everyone's help.
I'm not sure why the toggle switch was removed since when I join the two wires together, the noise suppression seems to adjust and work as it should.
I finally looked under the chassis and was surprised to see it is about 95% original. Just one or two caps tacked onto a couple of bakelite cap blocks. I'm really surprised this still works but I won't be playing it until I can recap the chassis after I contact Chuck Schwark and get a good schematic I can actually read and a parts list which hopefully will list the value of the caps and the resistors..
Thanks,
Mark




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