[37silverstreak]

Hey everyone,
Earlier this year I picked up an RCA 128 on Ebay. This is one of the radios I've wanted to get since I was in High school, so I was thrilled to get it! Until I actually got it, that is. Turns out the chassis was in poor condition, along with a shorted out power transformer! Disappointed, I put it off to the side, until, by luck, I came across a chassis for an RCA 226 on Ebay. After some research it turns out the 226 is the console version of the 128 and the chassis's are identical I bought the 226 with the idea of using the parts from it to repair my 128 chassis. After receiving the 226, it was in such good shape that I am now going to use it to replace the 128's sad gut's and use the original for spare parts. I'm now working on the chassis. My question is, does anyone have any tips on what is good to use to clean dirt from the chassis? there is no rust on it but it does have 75 years of grime stuck to it! Also if there are any RCA experts on here, Which is the correct dial face to use? My 128 came with a yellow dial which I think may be a repro and my 226 came with a very dark red dial which looks original. Any input would be great, thanks!
Kevin

[TA Forbes]

The early production dials were dark cranberry colored, and tough to see through. I used brighter 6V bulbs in my 263, but you have to be careful that you do not burn holes in the two light diffusers that are in front of each bulb. The later dials were a light amber color. If your dial is really a light yellow/tan, it may be a rock-sea replacement. These tend to be way too light.

I would use the dark red dial if your 128 dial is one of these replacements. Or check with Mark Oppat at oldradioparts.net for a good replacement for the light amber dial. I have used his dials for several of my resto jobs and they are very satisfactory.

[ekimetsok]

If your diffusers are scorched or burned through, a plastic milk carton makes an effective and economical replacement.

[codefox1]

There are as many ways to clean up a chassis as forum members. Smoky grease may come off with a little ammonia with a rag. An old toothbrush and qtips also helps in crevices. Moving on to something stronger, paint thinner (make sure area is ventilated,) or rubbing alcohol. Some like to use GoJo, pumice or auto rubbing out compound, tootpaste, it goes on and on. Beware that chassis stamps and labels may be ruined, so take some pictures first. Be careful not to get any debris into the tube sockets, those you should spray with deoxit. Whatever you do, let everything dry out for a day or so before initial testing begins.

[Ragazzo]

My question is, does anyone have any tips on what is good to use to clean dirt from the chassis?

If the chassis in not really dirty and the metal is not corroded the best is to use a mixture of two most powerful solvents - water + alcohol = vodka.
A bottle of Stoly will last long and smells good. Can be also used for tubes and other components.

Otherwise you should be able to find a lot of cleaning stuff in any kitchen...

Leonid