[Tom Hamilton]

Hi all, This is my first post to this phorum so I hope I'm in the right place asking the right questions. First of all, I'm pretty new to radio repair but I've been visiting this phorum on a regular basis to read and learn all about radio repair and restoration. I am amazed how knowledgeable and helpful the membership is. A big THANK YOU to Ron for starting this website. It is so helpful and goes a long way to keeping these Philcos playing. Phil's old radios website was really helpful, too.
First, a little background. I know how to solder and use a DVM, but I'm not an electronics person. So after lots of reading "how to do it radio repair articles", I picked up a 7 tube 1937 General Electric F70 radio on Craigs List. I was told it worked when I got it which is a big step in the right direction for a newbie. I very carefully replaced 13 capacitors, 4 electrolytic capacitors and 7 resisters. And I changed out some of that old rotted rubber wire, too. I replaced everything exactly right, one step at a time. It didn't get all blowed up or nuthin' when I turned it on ! I do have some questions about this radio, but I realize this is a Philco phorum so I'll save those questions for ARF. My questions concern my next project.
I picked up a Philco 6 tube 38-620T bullet radio and a really nice-looking 9 tube 41-256. Does anyone know the difference between the 41-255 and 41-256? I noticed the short wave ranges are different. My shortwave ranges are 8.8 to 12.0 and 13.6 to 18.0. I have no idea what this means. Is that good or bad or just different? Are there any other big differences? It seems that there are a lot more 41-255's out there than 41-256's. I did see that a fellow named "badrestorer" on ARF did a very thorough restoration on a 41-255 for newbie types such as myself. My rubber wiring on this set is not horrible, but some will surely be replaced or covered with shrink tubing. My other choice is a 38-620T. I've read a lot about the center suspended chassis and the two paper capacitors that are buried deep down there. I'm sure I can replace them if I go slow and makes lots of diagrams on what goes where. "Badrestorer" did a step by step restoration on a 37-610, which is close but it's not the same radio. Any thoughts on all this rambling?
Right now I know enough to be dangerous. My next goal is get a working variac with a fuse, but I'm on a tight budget right now. I actually found a variac at a radio swap meet, but it had been overloaded and was burned out. It didn't have a fuse. Ah, live and learn. I did make a dim bulb tester out of an extension cord. I joined the Southern California radio club, SCARS, but haven't met anyone who lives near enough to me that I can ask my many questions. Any help or suggestions on what to do next would be appreciated. Thanks to all for reading this far. Tom, Glendale, CA

[TA Forbes]

Hello, Tom, and welcome!

This IS the place to be with Philco questions, and frankly with other radio issues, as someone here will have the expertise to answer your questions.

Personally I do not know the differences between the 41-255/6 models, but I am really a 1930 to 1938 guy myself. The 255s I have seen were good players and recievers when right, you have a good radio to make right! The numbers you speak of are mega-hertz frequencies associated with shortwave radio. On them you can potentially listen to broadcasts from around the world, assuming that you have a good antenna on your radio. Right now I am listening to Radio Croatia on 7.8MHz, the radio I am recieving it on is a 10 tube RCA 263.

With respect to your 38-620, yes, it does have the RF deck that others have made (mostly negative) comments about. It is indeed tough to get at the components on the RF deck. And yes, your 41-255 has the troublesome rubber wire that often requires complete replacement. If I could offer any advice without knowing what your abilities are, it would be to know what your abilities truly are before you tackle restoring a radio. You can ruin a set by getting too deep into it. Photographs of the set's wiring before you work on it, diagrams, and tagging wires you have to un solder is a good way to avoid problems. Assume nothing, verify what you are unsure of. It is better to leave a project until you are sure of your next step.

[Tom Hamilton]

While I will be the first to admit I'm not as knowledgeable as most of the people on this phorum when it comes to electronics, but my abilities are a lot better than when I started. I'm starting to "get it". Schmatics are starting to make some sense. I find when I reread my radio books and radio repair articles that they make more and more sense. Things are starting to come together and more and more pieces of the puzzle are falling into place. I have a long way to go, but I feel confident I can repair either radio, especially with the help I can get here. You and I are on the same page when it comes to labeling wires, drawing diagrams and taking digital pictures. My GE F70 radio works because I took my time and replaced all the capacitors, and some of the resisters one at a time using lots of pictures and diagrams. I've been soldering for years. I used to build specialized microphone/audio cables used by filmmakers and sound recordists. Tom

[Ron Ramirez]

Hi Tom, and welcome.

The difference between the 41-255 and 41-256 is the frequency coverage. The two SW bands in the 256 cover a higher range of frequencies than the 255 does.

Both use the same basic circuit otherwise, and the same number of tubes (9).

Not good or bad, just different. Well, it also means your 256 won't pick up much shortwave at night - stations in the higher range of frequencies come in better during the day. The 49 and 41 meter bands (6 and 7 mc, roughly) open up in the evening, and your 256 will not pick up these frequencies.

Maybe this is why there doesn't seem to be a lot of 41-256 sets out there, compared to the 41-255 which was usable on SW day or night. Plus, the 41-256 was a mid-season set; it didn't come into the market until January 1941, while the 41-255 came out at the beginning of the 1941 selling season (June 1940).

The 38-620 will be the easier of the two sets to restore. No rubber-covered wiring. And even though you will have the headache of dealing with the RF unit in the 38-620, it will be a breeze compared to the rubber-covered wiring nightmare of the 41-256. You will have to either replace all of the wires in the 256, or do like I do and unsolder one end of a wire, remove what is left of the rotten rubber insulation, slide on some heat shrink tubing, shrink it, resolder, move on to the next one. It is very time consuming, but the radio should be a very good performer when you are done with it. You say you have already done some of this on a GE radio, so you know what you are facing.

I have, among other 1939-1942 Philco sets that also have this wonderful rubber insulation, a 41-616 that I plan to start on in the next few weeks. It's really going to be a nightmare, 15 tubes and Mystery Control.

[Tom Hamilton]

Ron, Thanks for your detailed answer. You certainly know your stuff. I sent you some pictures of my 41-256 for the gallery. I have a feeling the next radio repair is going to be the 38-620. The rubber wiring on the 41-256 doesn't look that bad, but I have a broken power switch and maybe a question or two about the BASS control. Besides, I have a spare 38-620 I got off of Ebay that I can use for parts or use as a reference if I get lost. I'm sure I'll have questions about that repair when I get to it. Thanks to all for your help. Tom

[Arran]

I would try working on the 38-620 first, it's a six tube set rather then nine so less complex in that way, less wires will need to be changed, and provided that nothing catastrophic has happened the power and output transformers will not need to be replaced. While the RF sub chassis in the 38-620 will have some burried parts the 41-256 also has parts burried under the push button assembly, so six of one and half a dozen of the other, but at least the wires connecting the sub chassis in the 38-620 won't start crumbling insulation as soon as they are disturbed. I must say one thing about the 1939-42 Philcos though, compared to a 1932-33 RCA set they are much easier to work on.
Regards
Arran

[Tom Hamilton]

Arran, I am so glad I posted my question. The depth of knowledge you and this group of people have is wonderful. I never would've thought of that. The 38-620 it is, then. I have heard that the 38-620 is actually a pretty good radio. I hope so. Thanks again for all your help. Tom