[jerryhawthorne]

OK, working on the above chassis and found something strange. Resistor ID of #43 is listed as a 40K ohm. This is both on the schematic and on the parts list. It is well located. Either I'm reading the color code wrong on the resistor or am going brain dead. I will attach a picture of the resistor in question, to me it reads 4K and in fact it reads very close to 4K in actual resistance. Should it be a 4K as I read the value both color and resistance wise or a 40K? The resistor was certainly an original from the looks of the connection. Appreciate your help.

Jerry
Resistor
[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129...sistor.jpg]

Link to schematic:

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...013234.pdf

[Arran]

Looks like it should be body, end, dot, so yellow black and red, maybe a misprint on the schematic?
Regards
Arran

[Ron Ramirez]

Or maybe a mistake at the factory? I'll look at the schematic later today and get back with you.

[jerryhawthorne]

Thanks Arran and Ron. Will await the final decision of wrong schematic value or wrong resistor installed in manufacturing.

Jerry

[Arran]

I can't find a resistor of either value on the parts list, and the Nostalgia Air Schematic is hard to read but I didn't find any resistors of those values on there either. Where exactly was this connected, between what part and what part?
Regards
Arran

[Ron Ramirez]

By the way, this is a 38-116, Code 125. (43) in Code 121 is one of the trimmers.

Yup, the schematic calls for a 40K, and the parts list specifies 40K, 1 watt.

I found a correction, though: (43) is supposed to be 4K, 1 watt, not 40K.

So your 4K resistor is original.

This change (and many more) is available in a PDF file that is a free download for Phorum members. Just look here:

http://www.philcoradio.com/phorum/showth...hp?tid=215

It is called Philco Changes in Models and covers Philco sets made between 1933 and 1938. The file itself is changes.zip.

This change to your 38-116 is documented on the very last page of this file.

[jerryhawthorne]

So sorry to both of you for linking the wrong version, Ron your right it is a code 125 and I linked a 121 schematic. Thanks Ron for discovering that and solving the problem of a change later in notes that that resistor value was changed to a 4K from the original schematic. We are 3/4 through the cap changes and resistor checks and changes. We have "music". Not great but still need to through the IF section with many caps. Hope you and Arron have had a very nice holiday.

Jerry

[jerryhawthorne]

Thanks for that link to the changes. The Philco Phorum has a lot I have not discovered yet. But let's continue to a couple more questions. Still on the 38-116. First is a picture of a small rectangular can. I believe it holds some caps but can't really find it on any of the documentation we have as to what it is. This could be to a number of things, I'm brain dead, I can't see that well or both of the above. What is it and where is it noted on the schematic?
Second picture shows what looks like a reed switch behind the dial. What the heck is that doing and where in the schematic.
Could this be related to the two lights that should light up the two sides of the dial that don't work? They go to a switch on the front but nothing seems to turn them on.
The radio is working well now, about 15 resistors to check but all caps perhaps what is in that can have been changed.
As usual, thanks for your help

Jerry


Picture of that little can I can't identify.

[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129...116can.jpg]

A picture of the small reed switch with two wired going to it and seems to be related to the radio dial.

[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129...tch116.jpg]

[Ron Ramirez]

First photo: The can is (65), which contains three capacitors: two 0.1 and one 0.7 uF. You can parallel a 0.47 with a 0.22 to get 0.69, close enough for gubmint work. These caps are part of the set's Magnetic Tuning circuit.

Second photo: That appears to be either the audio muting switch (86), or the AFC shorting switch (97). I would need to look it up to be sure which it is, and I'm too lazy to do so right now, frankly.

Gotta go outside and shovel more snow...we received 3-4 more inches overnight.

[jerryhawthorne]

Thanks for the help Ron, gang, another question. I can't seem to get the "flood lamps" that illuminate the sides of the dial to go on. After looking at the schematic, there is more than meets my eyes. These don't appear to run off the 6.3V AC line. There were no bulbs in place so I stuffed some 6V lamps. The Philco P/N for the lamps is 34 2064 could anyone provide me with a commercial part number? Also, from the looks of the schematic, activation of the bulbs appears to require two switches item #s 96 and possibly 97. Do the bulbs only illuminate when switches are in a certain position or when possibly moving the tuner manually with the "thingy" that comes off the edge of the center dial for tuning to "presets". This dial bezel is missing the protruding piece. I have tried to download a pic to photo bucket but they seem to be on the beta version and I can get nowhere.
Thanks Jerry

OK, got PB to work, here is a picture of the dial.

[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129...001-12.jpg]

Here is a link to the schematic:

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...013235.pdf

[klondike98]

Jerry, I think that PN is 34-2064 which is a #44 bulb. http://www.philcorepairbench.com/lamps.htm .
Bob

[TA Forbes]

Make sure that they are not shorted internally. Philco lamp mounts get brittle internally and should be rebuilt as a precaution. This can cause the 6V secondary winding of your power transformer to fry.

This site has an excellent article about rebuilding Philco pilot light mounts.

[jerryhawthorne]

Thanks a sorry for misreading the Philco P/N. So OK, I do have a 6V lamp in both flood lamp sockets with nada. The dial lamp and tubes are doing fine on filaments. Doubt I have a short in one of the sockets. My problem is to figure out when and how they are turned on. Again, appears to have something to do with the above mentioned switches. Do certain things have to happen switch wise or tuning wise to get these puppies to light? They seem to be tied to the magnetic tuning circuit , can ID#65. They don't seem to light when you just turn on the radio. Thanks for your help. I might add that as best as I can figure from the schematic these lights are not powered by the filament voltage line. Then again, I could be wrong and often are.
Jerry

[Phlogiston]

Using the 37-116 to answer - the 4 lights around the edge of the dial are switched on by the magnetic tuning switch. That switch can be a problem.

[jerryhawthorne]

After blowing up the schematic I now see, said the blind man. Thanks Phlog. Certainly looks like what is going on. The 38 only has two flood lamps, 44s. Always the ones you don't have! Shipping my shield for the 112 to Skip. Hopefully he can make a spare to cover your globes..

Jerry