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Philco 118 Dial Stringing
#1

I have searched this and other sites but do not understand how to install the dial string on a Philco 118. Mine is missing. But the configuration of mine does not seem to match the tech section diagram. Mine has a lower pulley with two grooves. There is also an UPPER pulley with one groove. And the dial drive metal shaft is SEPARATE from the upper pulley (mounted below it) - it has a small groove. The UPPER pulley is mounted on a hinged lever and can move a limited distance.

I cannot understand the function of the UPPER pulley. Does the dial string go around the upper pulley? The string would also obviously have to somehow go around the dial tuning shaft (since the upper pulley is not attached to the dial shaft).

Of course, there is a chance that my radio is not original in this area.

HELP!
#2

http://www.philcoradio.com/tech/string.htm

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#3

Thanks, Ron but that's the first place I looked! I just do not understand how the knob shaft moves the upper pulley and thus the dial string unless the string is somehow also linked to the knob shaft! Also confusing was a post on Antique Radio Forums http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/view...hp?t=38312 which stated:

"Well I figured this one out, too. Not that intuitive - took some experimenting. The trick is to make sure that the nylon crochet yarn (see Ramirez Philco site for brand) just doesn't go around the pulley on the dial rod, but goes around another turn. Then you get the friction so the dial turns."

Well, there is no pulley on the dial rod. Does he mean that the dial cord goes around the upper pulley TWICE, and that creates friction between the dial knob shaft and the upper pulley?

For those who have replaced the dial cord on a 118, if strung up exactly like Ron's diagram (cord goes up and over the top pulley and NOT around it) is there enough friction between the knob shaft and the upper pulley to operate the mechanism? Maybe my upper pulley is worn!
#4

I don't currently have a 118, so I can't look at one of those...hmmm, I wonder if my 201X chassis has the separate pulley, or the pulley on the tuning shaft? I'll have to look and see...

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#5

Is it the same as a 118B? Mine kept slipping where the separate pulley moves. I finally decided to remove it and run an O ring from the tuning cap pulley to the tuning shaft. It works well now.

Steve
#6

I took the O-Ring idea but instead added a small O-ring around the knob shaft. My problem was that the knob shaft was NOT turning the upper pulley - just slipping. I then strung the dial cord as in Ron's diagram, using Philco 45-1135 Dial Cord, which is thick and very flexible. It now works great. Apparently the upper pulley, which is some sort of fiber construction, was worn and there was not enough friction between the pulley and the knob shaft. The small grommet around the knob shaft seemed to solve that. I don't know how long it willl last. Perhaps a better solution would be to remove the top (single) pulley and lever completely, and fabricate or purchase a pulley for the knob shaft that then drives the mechanism and REPLACES the hinged upper pulley.
#7

It was the center hinged/levered fiber pulley that I removed. Going from the top to bottom pulleys was where I put the o-ring. It doesnt seem to matter for tuning that the center one is gone
#8

There has to be several versions of the dial drive on the 118 (typical Philco!) On my radio the hinged fiber pulley is on TOP. Below it is the dial knob shaft (it has no pulley attached - solid metal - it has some grooves machined into it that apparently mate with the fiber pulley above it), and on the bottom is the double pulley (fixed).

Apparently some 118 et al variants had a pulley attached to the dial knob shaft. That would appear to work better than my configuration, although the dial drive reduction would not be as great.

I think the best fix for my configuration would be to find a small pulley with an outside diameter similar to the fiber upper pulley that would fit on a 1/4" shaft secured by a set screw. Then I would remove the hinged upper pulley like you did and string it up like Ron's diagram. I guess I'll start browsing Granger and similar sites for such a pulley (I do have a small Unimat lathe, but probably NOT the skills!)




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