<![CDATA[The PHILCO Phorum - Philco-Transitone Auto Radios]]>

<![CDATA[The PHILCO Phorum - Philco-Transitone Auto Radios]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/ Sat, 24 Oct 2026 08:10:07 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[Philco Transitone Model 10]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26601 Sun, 05 Jul 2026 10:53:15 -0500 mike_z]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26601 <![CDATA[Auburn/Cord A1414 bad local osc coil...]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26149 Sun, 21 Dec 2025 18:00:20 -0600 37-Cord]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26149
My father-in-law owns a 1937 Cord, and I'm trying to get the radio working. I have a lot of background in electronics and tube electronics.

I couldn't find any diagrams of the A1414 Philco chassis (A for Auburn). But it is very similar with only slight differences to the R-1415 Reo and W-1419 Willys radio depicted in Rider volume 8, and similar also to Packard P-1417.

I got the power supply sorted with a solid-state vibrator, buffer cap and a couple of other caps. Nice clean 195v.

Started working my way back through the stages, audio-out, 1st audio, IF, and eventually figured out the local oscillator wasn't working.

Checked the coil and it was not reading any thing on the primary (g2) winding. Took it out and the small, outer winding was open, and the larger inner winding was reading high ohms. Did a little soldering and was able to get the outer winding reconnected, but the coil is still bad reading high ohms on the secondary. Just a few winds of "green rot" visible under the wax, but mostly intact otherwise. But that's that.

So I need to either find a local-oscillator coil or re-wind it. The Philco number is 32-2496. Doubt I'll find a friendly neighborhood Philco factory store in the neighborhood with spares on hand.

In the mean time, used the signal generator and scope to inject RF at the antenna input and verify it is is tuning and passing that up to the 6A7, then nothing since there's no local osc. So I injected 260kc signal and it seems to be passing that all the way to the detector. IF seems pretty close, peaking at 258kc, just shy of the target 260kc.

So I think the bones are good. Some evidence of prior repair as one of the bakelite capacitors has been bypassed. But nothing looks molested.

The car is beautiful and a show winner. Would be really nice to get this original radio working.

Suggestions on sourcing the coil, or tips on re-winding it appreciated.]]>
My father-in-law owns a 1937 Cord, and I'm trying to get the radio working. I have a lot of background in electronics and tube electronics.

I couldn't find any diagrams of the A1414 Philco chassis (A for Auburn). But it is very similar with only slight differences to the R-1415 Reo and W-1419 Willys radio depicted in Rider volume 8, and similar also to Packard P-1417.

I got the power supply sorted with a solid-state vibrator, buffer cap and a couple of other caps. Nice clean 195v.

Started working my way back through the stages, audio-out, 1st audio, IF, and eventually figured out the local oscillator wasn't working.

Checked the coil and it was not reading any thing on the primary (g2) winding. Took it out and the small, outer winding was open, and the larger inner winding was reading high ohms. Did a little soldering and was able to get the outer winding reconnected, but the coil is still bad reading high ohms on the secondary. Just a few winds of "green rot" visible under the wax, but mostly intact otherwise. But that's that.

So I need to either find a local-oscillator coil or re-wind it. The Philco number is 32-2496. Doubt I'll find a friendly neighborhood Philco factory store in the neighborhood with spares on hand.

In the mean time, used the signal generator and scope to inject RF at the antenna input and verify it is is tuning and passing that up to the 6A7, then nothing since there's no local osc. So I injected 260kc signal and it seems to be passing that all the way to the detector. IF seems pretty close, peaking at 258kc, just shy of the target 260kc.

So I think the bones are good. Some evidence of prior repair as one of the bakelite capacitors has been bypassed. But nothing looks molested.

The car is beautiful and a show winner. Would be really nice to get this original radio working.

Suggestions on sourcing the coil, or tips on re-winding it appreciated.]]> <![CDATA[1937 Ford Philco F-1442]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26087 Mon, 10 Nov 2025 17:01:02 -0600 mike_z]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26087 <![CDATA[Mopar 802 (philco 4608)]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26071 Fri, 31 Oct 2025 14:17:49 -0500 billjhs]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26071 Working on restoring a mopar 802 radio and was wondering if anyone knows where I can get the white plastic light filter thats behind the tuning peg???
The original is yellowed and broken off inside the front panel.
Plus a source for parts (except caps and such) would be helpful!
Thanks
Bill]]> Working on restoring a mopar 802 radio and was wondering if anyone knows where I can get the white plastic light filter thats behind the tuning peg???
The original is yellowed and broken off inside the front panel.
Plus a source for parts (except caps and such) would be helpful!
Thanks
Bill]]> <![CDATA[Philco auto radio -how to get the speaker out?]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=25989 Thu, 11 Sep 2025 22:48:13 -0500 Antipodal]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=25989 I have a Philco auto radio set on the bench at the moment.Valve lineup is 6A7 78 75 41 84. Sadly neither on the cover nor on the valve identification sticker inside is there any model number. That's okay so far . I guess I can work on it blind .

But I cannot figure out how to get the speaker , located inside the box , out so I can work on the set.If there is anyone on the Phorum who has worked on one of these sets who knows how to get the speaker (and probably the output transformer as well ) out I'd be grateful to tap into your expertise.

Hopefully as you'll see from the photos you'll see that it is a pushbutton set, though the actual buttons themselves have not stood the test of time.Does anyone know if they are available ? Thanks everyone. Also if any one recognises this radio and can point me to a source for a schematic that would be most helpful . Thanks.

IMG_0062.JPG Size: 1.36 MB Downloads: 341

IMG_7212.JPG Size: 2.42 MB Downloads: 362

IMG_7213.JPG Size: 1.94 MB Downloads: 353

]]> I have a Philco auto radio set on the bench at the moment.Valve lineup is 6A7 78 75 41 84. Sadly neither on the cover nor on the valve identification sticker inside is there any model number. That's okay so far . I guess I can work on it blind .

But I cannot figure out how to get the speaker , located inside the box , out so I can work on the set.If there is anyone on the Phorum who has worked on one of these sets who knows how to get the speaker (and probably the output transformer as well ) out I'd be grateful to tap into your expertise.

Hopefully as you'll see from the photos you'll see that it is a pushbutton set, though the actual buttons themselves have not stood the test of time.Does anyone know if they are available ? Thanks everyone. Also if any one recognises this radio and can point me to a source for a schematic that would be most helpful . Thanks.

IMG_0062.JPG Size: 1.36 MB Downloads: 341

IMG_7212.JPG Size: 2.42 MB Downloads: 362

IMG_7213.JPG Size: 1.94 MB Downloads: 353

]]> <![CDATA[Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=25736 Wed, 16 Apr 2025 17:43:40 -0500 Pdouglaski]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=25736 Hello
I am new here and I could use some advice. I am working on my 1955 Stude/Philco car radio and have determined that the power transformer has an open winding in its secondary. The Philco part # is 32-8313-3. I can't find any specs for the transformer. Does anyone know what they are are where I could find a good one?
Thanks
Phil ]]> Hello
I am new here and I could use some advice. I am working on my 1955 Stude/Philco car radio and have determined that the power transformer has an open winding in its secondary. The Philco part # is 32-8313-3. I can't find any specs for the transformer. Does anyone know what they are are where I could find a good one?
Thanks
Phil ]]> <![CDATA[6TPZ and 5TPO Radio Help]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=25599 Fri, 07 Feb 2025 10:29:59 -0600 R3Sons]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=25599 Thank you]]> Thank you]]> <![CDATA[Philco 10 car radio head key]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=25323 Fri, 18 Oct 2024 13:33:17 -0500 Keandkafu]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=25323 <![CDATA[Ford Philco F-1540 Installation Manual]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=24827 Mon, 15 Jan 2024 12:34:54 -0600 F-1540]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=24827
Regards

Bill

1838-F-1540-Ford-Philco-Manual.pdf Size: 3.03 MB Downloads: 635

]]>
Regards

Bill

1838-F-1540-Ford-Philco-Manual.pdf Size: 3.03 MB Downloads: 635

]]> <![CDATA[Ford F-1540 Questions]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=24791 Tue, 26 Dec 2023 20:55:34 -0600 F-1540]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=24791 I am a semi retired technician and worked with high power tube transmitters for several years but I have been away from that era for a long while. I have been reading till my eyes bleed on this site and took the good advice of changing out all the dripping wax caps. I have recently dealt with the power supply 4/8 uf can by putting a couple of caps on the bottom side … I don’t like the aesthetics but it brought the B+ voltage to about 211 volts. Not sure if that is correct as I don’t really see any documentation with typical tube voltages. I’d have changed a few resistors also that were off center value by quite a bit.
Today I was able to half step and inject 260 kHz in the If producing a nice clean tone. I eventually got to the point of injecting a 1MHz signal at the grid of the first RF tube and tuned around a bit eventually finding the signal a few hundred KHz off the dial indicator. The sensitivity I am seeing is around -50 dBm and that is not real crisp. I can inject into the antenna port also with a bit more loss.

As I am just getting started in this extracurricular activity I don’t have a supply of tubes but may order a 78 and 6A7. I am pretty encouraged about being able to jam a signal through now it may be just a matter of getting it stronger and cleaning the fuzz out.

I am probably not knowledgeable enough to ask the right questions yet but there is a couple that come to mind.
What kind of sensitivity should I expect out of this auto radio?
I’m pretty convinced the dial is not tracking right so maybe an alignment would help? Would a front end tube swap be useful before I went hog wild with a tuning tool.
Another symptom is the radio seems to produce a good amount of irritating buzzing but when I get the signal tuned in it reduces a lot but a but fuzzy.   The IF to Audio stages were real clean sounding.

I would welcome any comments from the brain trust here as to my next steps.

Regards,

Bill]]> I am a semi retired technician and worked with high power tube transmitters for several years but I have been away from that era for a long while. I have been reading till my eyes bleed on this site and took the good advice of changing out all the dripping wax caps. I have recently dealt with the power supply 4/8 uf can by putting a couple of caps on the bottom side … I don’t like the aesthetics but it brought the B+ voltage to about 211 volts. Not sure if that is correct as I don’t really see any documentation with typical tube voltages. I’d have changed a few resistors also that were off center value by quite a bit.
Today I was able to half step and inject 260 kHz in the If producing a nice clean tone. I eventually got to the point of injecting a 1MHz signal at the grid of the first RF tube and tuned around a bit eventually finding the signal a few hundred KHz off the dial indicator. The sensitivity I am seeing is around -50 dBm and that is not real crisp. I can inject into the antenna port also with a bit more loss.

As I am just getting started in this extracurricular activity I don’t have a supply of tubes but may order a 78 and 6A7. I am pretty encouraged about being able to jam a signal through now it may be just a matter of getting it stronger and cleaning the fuzz out.

I am probably not knowledgeable enough to ask the right questions yet but there is a couple that come to mind.
What kind of sensitivity should I expect out of this auto radio?
I’m pretty convinced the dial is not tracking right so maybe an alignment would help? Would a front end tube swap be useful before I went hog wild with a tuning tool.
Another symptom is the radio seems to produce a good amount of irritating buzzing but when I get the signal tuned in it reduces a lot but a but fuzzy.   The IF to Audio stages were real clean sounding.

I would welcome any comments from the brain trust here as to my next steps.

Regards,

Bill]]> <![CDATA[Philco Transitone Model L1427 schematic]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=24491 Fri, 04 Aug 2023 00:31:53 -0500 Antipodal]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=24491 <![CDATA[Power cable, speaker cable for 1937 Philco F-1442 auto radio]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=24460 Sun, 16 Jul 2023 10:07:14 -0500 KbLf]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=24460 I have a Philco F-1442 car radio and I have powered it up on the garage bench using a 6V car battery and power/ground cables I made from modern wiring. The radio works fine. The power cables, which appears OEM Philco, is falling apart and that is why I did not use it on the bench test. Does anyone know where I can get the OEM style wires and terminal lug to make new power wires? One wire is a single conductor with a fabric color coded jacket and has a ring lug where it attaches to the car power. This wire is then soldered to a lug on the radio control head. The second wire is soldered to another lug and goes from the radio control head to the receiver. There is a metal in-line fuse holder (I have located a new replacement) in the middle of this power wire. The wire section that goes between the fuse holder and the receiver is shielded with a metal overbraid and a light brown colored fabric with a tracer...but the single conductor wire under the shield still looks like the other wire I have described. This shielded piece of wire is strain relieved to the receiver chassis with a wire clamp. I am not sure of the gauge of the wires but it is probably in the range of 12 or 14 AWG.

My speaker wire is in not so bad shape but I want to try and get spare wire to replace it in the near future...it is a 3 conductor cable and each wire is fabric covered and color coded. There is a shield over the wire, and then the shield is covered with a fabric jacket that is light brown.

If anyone can tell me where I can find these wires and hardware, I can solder it all together to make OEM looking harnesses...or I would be willing to buy the finished cables if there is a supplier anyone knows of.]]> I have a Philco F-1442 car radio and I have powered it up on the garage bench using a 6V car battery and power/ground cables I made from modern wiring. The radio works fine. The power cables, which appears OEM Philco, is falling apart and that is why I did not use it on the bench test. Does anyone know where I can get the OEM style wires and terminal lug to make new power wires? One wire is a single conductor with a fabric color coded jacket and has a ring lug where it attaches to the car power. This wire is then soldered to a lug on the radio control head. The second wire is soldered to another lug and goes from the radio control head to the receiver. There is a metal in-line fuse holder (I have located a new replacement) in the middle of this power wire. The wire section that goes between the fuse holder and the receiver is shielded with a metal overbraid and a light brown colored fabric with a tracer...but the single conductor wire under the shield still looks like the other wire I have described. This shielded piece of wire is strain relieved to the receiver chassis with a wire clamp. I am not sure of the gauge of the wires but it is probably in the range of 12 or 14 AWG.

My speaker wire is in not so bad shape but I want to try and get spare wire to replace it in the near future...it is a 3 conductor cable and each wire is fabric covered and color coded. There is a shield over the wire, and then the shield is covered with a fabric jacket that is light brown.

If anyone can tell me where I can find these wires and hardware, I can solder it all together to make OEM looking harnesses...or I would be willing to buy the finished cables if there is a supplier anyone knows of.]]> <![CDATA[Chev auto radio 986698 1953 - 4]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=24425 Wed, 28 Jun 2023 05:41:28 -0500 Antipodal]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=24425 <![CDATA[Transitone type 3]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=24317 Fri, 05 May 2023 20:29:23 -0500 R Radbill]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=24317 <![CDATA[1951 Chrysler radio]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=24281 Sat, 22 Apr 2023 17:07:06 -0500 mwiedmer]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=24281
I am new to radio repair and maintenance. We are restoring a 1951 Chrysler New Yorker (6V, positive ground) and the original radio does not work at all. This vehicle sat for at least 3 decades, but in general is in good, unmolested condition. All the removable radio parts are labeled Philco. We have power to the two-part radio (now on my bench) but the vibrator does not hum. According to the Chrysler Service Manual, this indicates the vibrator is the next thing to check. The manual recommends flashing the vibrator by removing the 14-amp fuse and striking the contacts together. This did not remedy the problem. The manual is silent on what else to do.

So, what should my next steps be? The vibrator is a Philco 83-0035; the electrolytic condenser is a Philco 61-0086. A quick internet search failed to reveal original-style replacements. I would like to restore this radio to near-original working condition. Are there available replacements for the vibrator and condenser? Any general advice on how to safely revive a long-dormant radio?

Thank you very much; I look forward to any recommendations you can provide!

Mike]]>
I am new to radio repair and maintenance. We are restoring a 1951 Chrysler New Yorker (6V, positive ground) and the original radio does not work at all. This vehicle sat for at least 3 decades, but in general is in good, unmolested condition. All the removable radio parts are labeled Philco. We have power to the two-part radio (now on my bench) but the vibrator does not hum. According to the Chrysler Service Manual, this indicates the vibrator is the next thing to check. The manual recommends flashing the vibrator by removing the 14-amp fuse and striking the contacts together. This did not remedy the problem. The manual is silent on what else to do.

So, what should my next steps be? The vibrator is a Philco 83-0035; the electrolytic condenser is a Philco 61-0086. A quick internet search failed to reveal original-style replacements. I would like to restore this radio to near-original working condition. Are there available replacements for the vibrator and condenser? Any general advice on how to safely revive a long-dormant radio?

Thank you very much; I look forward to any recommendations you can provide!

Mike]]>