<![CDATA[The PHILCO Phorum - Philco Electronic Restoration]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/ Sat, 24 Oct 2026 03:56:52 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[54C Complete Teardown/Rebuild]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26771 Fri, 23 Oct 2026 22:07:45 -0500 glyphmon]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26771
I've read through Ron's rebuild and modification of a 54C to eliminate the giant resistors out back and use more modern tubes.  I'm not going to go to that extreme (though if the resistors themselves are bad I may need to get creative), but I may incorporate some of his tweaks if people think it would be beneficial.

For example, I know he added a safety capacitor (0.01 uF X1/Y2) between hot and neutral after the switch, and a 150K ohm resistor from the neutral side to chassis ground (part numbers 44 and 43 respectively on his updated schematic here: https://philcoradio.com/library/index.ph...4c-part-2/).  I suspect his reasoning for those modifications is sound and I would be well served to do the same?

Also, as with the other radios I've worked on, I will add a new cord with polarized plug and move the switch onto the hot side with an inline fuse before the switch.

For those who are familiar with and/or have worked on this model before, are there any other suggestions you would have?

Also, before I start putting things back together (a long way off, still) I would like to iron out where is the ideal location to put a switch to cut between radio and aux input - would it be between the input to volume control and the junction of the volume control input with R21, R26, and C24?

While everything is still a learning experience for me, this will be my first complete teardown so I will be taking copious notes/sketches and photos along the way for my reference.  It's not that I had a particular desire to take it all apart, but given how tight everything is inside, I can't see any other way to effectively check and replace resistors and capacitors inside the chassis.  So I think this method is the only way to safely access it and will certainly be helpful to facilitate a good cleaning.  I expect to put in all new wire because "why not" if it's all apart anyway.  So far they're not like wires in the 6K3 with the crumbling insulation.

I won't be posting much in the way of updates, hopefully, at least not until it's time to start putting things back together.  Tonight I started with just the removal of the 1st IF transformer assembly and oscillator coil assembly which are mounted to the same metal stand-off.  Already checked resistance and primary and secondary of each ohms out to just about what the schematics say they should.  Two resistors came with them, both of them significantly low, R11 (51K) at 37.7K (26% under) and R14 (5K) at 4.18K (16% under).  Obviously R11 gets replaced, and I plan to do R14 as well, as this is not a chassis I want to dig through again in the future if these resistors go further from their intended values.  Smaller, modern components can only help underneath, as well.  Will be interesting to see how the rest of them test as I go along.  Complete teardown makes testing out-of-circuit much easier, at least.

.jpeg IMG_0903.JPEG Size: 942.71 KB  Downloads: 9

Definitely will get to try to repair the speaker cone or, failing that, attempt to recone it, and failing that, be in search of a new speaker.  Probably should test the field and voice coils before hand.   Icon_biggrin

Best wishes,
Roy]]>
I've read through Ron's rebuild and modification of a 54C to eliminate the giant resistors out back and use more modern tubes.  I'm not going to go to that extreme (though if the resistors themselves are bad I may need to get creative), but I may incorporate some of his tweaks if people think it would be beneficial.

For example, I know he added a safety capacitor (0.01 uF X1/Y2) between hot and neutral after the switch, and a 150K ohm resistor from the neutral side to chassis ground (part numbers 44 and 43 respectively on his updated schematic here: https://philcoradio.com/library/index.ph...4c-part-2/).  I suspect his reasoning for those modifications is sound and I would be well served to do the same?

Also, as with the other radios I've worked on, I will add a new cord with polarized plug and move the switch onto the hot side with an inline fuse before the switch.

For those who are familiar with and/or have worked on this model before, are there any other suggestions you would have?

Also, before I start putting things back together (a long way off, still) I would like to iron out where is the ideal location to put a switch to cut between radio and aux input - would it be between the input to volume control and the junction of the volume control input with R21, R26, and C24?

While everything is still a learning experience for me, this will be my first complete teardown so I will be taking copious notes/sketches and photos along the way for my reference.  It's not that I had a particular desire to take it all apart, but given how tight everything is inside, I can't see any other way to effectively check and replace resistors and capacitors inside the chassis.  So I think this method is the only way to safely access it and will certainly be helpful to facilitate a good cleaning.  I expect to put in all new wire because "why not" if it's all apart anyway.  So far they're not like wires in the 6K3 with the crumbling insulation.

I won't be posting much in the way of updates, hopefully, at least not until it's time to start putting things back together.  Tonight I started with just the removal of the 1st IF transformer assembly and oscillator coil assembly which are mounted to the same metal stand-off.  Already checked resistance and primary and secondary of each ohms out to just about what the schematics say they should.  Two resistors came with them, both of them significantly low, R11 (51K) at 37.7K (26% under) and R14 (5K) at 4.18K (16% under).  Obviously R11 gets replaced, and I plan to do R14 as well, as this is not a chassis I want to dig through again in the future if these resistors go further from their intended values.  Smaller, modern components can only help underneath, as well.  Will be interesting to see how the rest of them test as I go along.  Complete teardown makes testing out-of-circuit much easier, at least.

.jpeg IMG_0903.JPEG Size: 942.71 KB  Downloads: 9

Definitely will get to try to repair the speaker cone or, failing that, attempt to recone it, and failing that, be in search of a new speaker.  Probably should test the field and voice coils before hand.   Icon_biggrin

Best wishes,
Roy]]> <![CDATA[Philco 52-541]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26766 Mon, 19 Oct 2026 17:52:34 -0500 Joe Rossi]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26766
.pdf Philco 52-541.pdf Size: 93.73 KB  Downloads: 29
]]>
.pdf Philco 52-541.pdf Size: 93.73 KB  Downloads: 29
]]> <![CDATA[Phikco 37 630 Replacing caps question]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26764 Wed, 14 Oct 2026 17:50:28 -0500 telane1954@gmail.com]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26764 ]]> ]]> <![CDATA[Audio output transformer wiring]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26761 Tue, 13 Oct 2026 11:45:25 -0500 Mr. Radio-Man]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26761 Right now I'm just trying to figure out what wires go where (chassis and speaker)
It's a P-TGO-001 Champ Output 2426 from Amplified Parts
.jpg GOPR4908.JPG Size: 4.03 MB  Downloads: 72
]]> Right now I'm just trying to figure out what wires go where (chassis and speaker)
It's a P-TGO-001 Champ Output 2426 from Amplified Parts
.jpg GOPR4908.JPG Size: 4.03 MB  Downloads: 72
]]> <![CDATA[Philco 96 Console]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26749 Thu, 08 Oct 2026 20:11:01 -0500 Roy51]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26749
I am having a hard time getting a Philco 96 working correctly.
The radio section works perfectly, however there is distortion in the audio.
With a signal tracer the audio is clean and undistorted up to the grid of the first audio tube (27) but
on the plate it’s distorting. The info I have states there should be 27 volts on the plate, however I have about 
110-120 volts. I find that this voltage varies by going up from about 60v off station but once tuned into a station the voltage goes up ??
The grid voltage also goes up from say -3v to -16-18v.
Can anyone help me on this ?
Thanks in advance
Roy]]>
I am having a hard time getting a Philco 96 working correctly.
The radio section works perfectly, however there is distortion in the audio.
With a signal tracer the audio is clean and undistorted up to the grid of the first audio tube (27) but
on the plate it’s distorting. The info I have states there should be 27 volts on the plate, however I have about 
110-120 volts. I find that this voltage varies by going up from about 60v off station but once tuned into a station the voltage goes up ??
The grid voltage also goes up from say -3v to -16-18v.
Can anyone help me on this ?
Thanks in advance
Roy]]> <![CDATA[Philco 49-1600 no sound]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26738 Mon, 05 Oct 2026 07:11:58 -0500 Sematary]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26738 So I picked this up at a yard sale the other day. Fell in love immediately. The radio lit up (no hum or static though so I knew something wasn't quite right). The Turntable fired right up. Even the auto works. Unfortunately, there is no sound from the box. Naturally, the first thing I did after getting it home and cleaning it up was to look at the speaker wires. They look good. Solidly connected on both ends. Also looked at the tubes. All the tubes lit up as far as I could tell (red dots of light unlike my 1930's cathedral style radio which are considerably more illuminated). So that is the extent of my troubleshooting to this point - and, honestly, the extent of what I know what to look for. So, any expertise on what to look for in this regards is more than appreciated. I actually know a shop a couple hours or so from me that I could bring it to (the guy recapped a 1972 Magnavox Odyssey for me so I know he knows what he's doing) but, honestly, I'd really like to start learning how to repair my own equipment because he is a dying breed.]]> So I picked this up at a yard sale the other day. Fell in love immediately. The radio lit up (no hum or static though so I knew something wasn't quite right). The Turntable fired right up. Even the auto works. Unfortunately, there is no sound from the box. Naturally, the first thing I did after getting it home and cleaning it up was to look at the speaker wires. They look good. Solidly connected on both ends. Also looked at the tubes. All the tubes lit up as far as I could tell (red dots of light unlike my 1930's cathedral style radio which are considerably more illuminated). So that is the extent of my troubleshooting to this point - and, honestly, the extent of what I know what to look for. So, any expertise on what to look for in this regards is more than appreciated. I actually know a shop a couple hours or so from me that I could bring it to (the guy recapped a 1972 Magnavox Odyssey for me so I know he knows what he's doing) but, honestly, I'd really like to start learning how to repair my own equipment because he is a dying breed.]]> <![CDATA[42-355 no radio]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26733 Thu, 01 Oct 2026 15:17:38 -0500 philco4me]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26733 <![CDATA[Philco 37-670 antenna]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26731 Wed, 30 Sep 2026 15:21:28 -0500 RadioDR401]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26731 <![CDATA[Help with Philco 48-1266]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26723 Tue, 22 Sep 2026 19:02:25 -0500 Lawrence Austin]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26723 https://philcoradio.com/library/download...8-1949.pdf

Hello, I have been working on my Philco 48-1266. I am NO expert but have brought my other radios back to life. Four consoles: 36 and 37 Philco, 38 Zenith and 49 Westinghouse. Three tabletops: 2- 48 Westinghouse and a 48 Philco. Even wound coils for the first time on the 36 Philco.

First the audio section is working great! The push pull 6V6 will blow you out of the room playing a record. I can get the 3 local stations at a very low volume. The volume seems to be even lower in the lower freq. like 570kHz. Tuning it on the dial or the pushbuttons sound quality is exactly the same. Trying to align the IF starting on the audio side first 2 trimmers work fine but the third and fourth don't do anything. The other AM trimmers all work.

All electrolytics and paper caps were replaced. Out of spec resistors replaced. All coils checked for resistance. Tubes changed and tested. Voltages all seem good. Should I start testing the small caps out of circuit? My main worry is having to open the IF can with the 2 non-working trimmers. Looks like a headache to get the 1/4" nuts under the band selector. I did check the fixed caps in the other 2 IF cans. Any help narrowing down what to look at would be greatly appreciated.]]> https://philcoradio.com/library/download...8-1949.pdf

Hello, I have been working on my Philco 48-1266. I am NO expert but have brought my other radios back to life. Four consoles: 36 and 37 Philco, 38 Zenith and 49 Westinghouse. Three tabletops: 2- 48 Westinghouse and a 48 Philco. Even wound coils for the first time on the 36 Philco.

First the audio section is working great! The push pull 6V6 will blow you out of the room playing a record. I can get the 3 local stations at a very low volume. The volume seems to be even lower in the lower freq. like 570kHz. Tuning it on the dial or the pushbuttons sound quality is exactly the same. Trying to align the IF starting on the audio side first 2 trimmers work fine but the third and fourth don't do anything. The other AM trimmers all work.

All electrolytics and paper caps were replaced. Out of spec resistors replaced. All coils checked for resistance. Tubes changed and tested. Voltages all seem good. Should I start testing the small caps out of circuit? My main worry is having to open the IF can with the 2 non-working trimmers. Looks like a headache to get the 1/4" nuts under the band selector. I did check the fixed caps in the other 2 IF cans. Any help narrowing down what to look at would be greatly appreciated.]]> <![CDATA[42-355 dial cord]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26721 Tue, 22 Sep 2026 08:32:31 -0500 philco4me]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26721 Thank you]]> Thank you]]> <![CDATA[8-pin Loctal Extender - Breakout Box]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26701 Wed, 09 Sep 2026 10:30:44 -0500 HarryWeatherford]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26701   Now I have to rebuild it again. Has anyone seen a prebuilt loctal extender (breakout box) for sale?  I have been unable to find any male B8G plugs, that is why I sacrificed an old tube.  I also bought a handful of 8-pin loctal bases (ceramic) and the quality is absolutely garbage (you get what you pay for).  The pins do not have a good latch on them so they want to pull out with tube removal.  Fortunately, I tested it before going through the trouble of blindly using them as replacements.  Does anyone have any links where I can buy these items, otherwise I have to cut off another tube with my dremel and go through that tough soldering exercise.
.png Tube_Extender.png Size: 434.47 KB  Downloads: 88
]]>   Now I have to rebuild it again. Has anyone seen a prebuilt loctal extender (breakout box) for sale?  I have been unable to find any male B8G plugs, that is why I sacrificed an old tube.  I also bought a handful of 8-pin loctal bases (ceramic) and the quality is absolutely garbage (you get what you pay for).  The pins do not have a good latch on them so they want to pull out with tube removal.  Fortunately, I tested it before going through the trouble of blindly using them as replacements.  Does anyone have any links where I can buy these items, otherwise I have to cut off another tube with my dremel and go through that tough soldering exercise.
.png Tube_Extender.png Size: 434.47 KB  Downloads: 88
]]> <![CDATA[Volume control question 41-295]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26700 Mon, 07 Sep 2026 20:17:24 -0500 NorthCapNerd]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26700
I'm restoring a 41-295. I have two of them and I've re-capped and re-sisted one chassis. The output transformer on the restoration unit had three output wires, with one going to the volume/tone pots. Unfortunately, that transformer was burned out, so I swapped in the donor transformer from the other unit which works fine, but must not be original, because it does not have the third wire on the output side. Still the radio works now and sounds good.

I read on some other posts here that the third wire is described as a "feeback tap" and while there are workarounds, it is not entirely necessary and some say it may not even be noticeable. I have not seen a specific workaround spelled out in a way that I feel I could follow through with.

Here's my symptom that I don't think is related, but I'll throw it out here: My big brown volume control seems to have a range from about 25% to 75%. If I roll it all the way to the bottom, the volume is still at about 25% (or at least it doesn't get down to silent) and if I roll it all the way to the top, it doesn't keep getting louder. The bottom end volume control issue makes me think that the gear has slipped a few teeth and even though the dial gets to zero, the potentiometer isn't getting to the bottom end. But I can't tell by looking whether there is an actual "stop" on the volume dial or whether the "stop" is the potentiometer getting to the bottom end of the wiper? The top end issue I thought could be related to not having the feedback tap, but honestly, I don't know enough electronics to make that assumption.

My second significant issue is while both speakers work, they are both torn. One is missing a few chunks, and one is missing a significant amount (like 30-40% including all the way down to the voice coil. I'm game for trying to re-cone the worse speaker and have watched a few videos. What I haven't seen is anybody use any sort of modern foam surround at the top which would seem to make sense. Otherwise, we're just cutting relief slits into the newly crafted cone paper and attaching it directly to the basket. But it isn't very pliable like the original which has the big rib formed into the paper. Assuming I can find anything close to a 14" foam surround, any reason why I wouldn't try to use one?

Final question (for now) is: Is there a process for cleaning the glass tubes to make them shiny like new again but not damage them? I saw the recommendation for Windex, but they seem to be a little more than dusty. Like they are etched from the heat and dust over the years. Would like them to look a clear and shiny again if that's achievable.]]>
I'm restoring a 41-295. I have two of them and I've re-capped and re-sisted one chassis. The output transformer on the restoration unit had three output wires, with one going to the volume/tone pots. Unfortunately, that transformer was burned out, so I swapped in the donor transformer from the other unit which works fine, but must not be original, because it does not have the third wire on the output side. Still the radio works now and sounds good.

I read on some other posts here that the third wire is described as a "feeback tap" and while there are workarounds, it is not entirely necessary and some say it may not even be noticeable. I have not seen a specific workaround spelled out in a way that I feel I could follow through with.

Here's my symptom that I don't think is related, but I'll throw it out here: My big brown volume control seems to have a range from about 25% to 75%. If I roll it all the way to the bottom, the volume is still at about 25% (or at least it doesn't get down to silent) and if I roll it all the way to the top, it doesn't keep getting louder. The bottom end volume control issue makes me think that the gear has slipped a few teeth and even though the dial gets to zero, the potentiometer isn't getting to the bottom end. But I can't tell by looking whether there is an actual "stop" on the volume dial or whether the "stop" is the potentiometer getting to the bottom end of the wiper? The top end issue I thought could be related to not having the feedback tap, but honestly, I don't know enough electronics to make that assumption.

My second significant issue is while both speakers work, they are both torn. One is missing a few chunks, and one is missing a significant amount (like 30-40% including all the way down to the voice coil. I'm game for trying to re-cone the worse speaker and have watched a few videos. What I haven't seen is anybody use any sort of modern foam surround at the top which would seem to make sense. Otherwise, we're just cutting relief slits into the newly crafted cone paper and attaching it directly to the basket. But it isn't very pliable like the original which has the big rib formed into the paper. Assuming I can find anything close to a 14" foam surround, any reason why I wouldn't try to use one?

Final question (for now) is: Is there a process for cleaning the glass tubes to make them shiny like new again but not damage them? I saw the recommendation for Windex, but they seem to be a little more than dusty. Like they are etched from the heat and dust over the years. Would like them to look a clear and shiny again if that's achievable.]]> <![CDATA[48-861 schematics?]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26697 Sun, 06 Sep 2026 18:04:01 -0500 poulsbobill]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26697 from 15 years ago with no real information.
Any one have  a schematic?  or other info?

Thanks

Bill
.jpg IMG_1696[1].JPG Size: 3.83 MB  Downloads: 139
.jpg IMG_1697[1].JPG Size: 3.65 MB  Downloads: 138
.jpg IMG_1699[1].JPG Size: 4.46 MB  Downloads: 132
.jpg IMG_1700[1].JPG Size: 3.83 MB  Downloads: 132
]]> from 15 years ago with no real information.
Any one have  a schematic?  or other info?

Thanks

Bill
.jpg IMG_1696[1].JPG Size: 3.83 MB  Downloads: 139
.jpg IMG_1697[1].JPG Size: 3.65 MB  Downloads: 138
.jpg IMG_1699[1].JPG Size: 4.46 MB  Downloads: 132
.jpg IMG_1700[1].JPG Size: 3.83 MB  Downloads: 132
]]> <![CDATA[Philco 50-520]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26692 Thu, 03 Sep 2026 20:33:43 -0500 Joe Rossi]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26692
.jpeg IMG_0132.jpeg Size: 212 KB  Downloads: 148

.jpeg IMG_0133.jpeg Size: 212 KB  Downloads: 148

.jpeg IMG_0134.jpeg Size: 212 KB  Downloads: 148

.jpeg IMG_0135.jpeg Size: 212 KB  Downloads: 149

.jpeg IMG_0136.jpeg Size: 212 KB  Downloads: 144


This level of fix-em-up is not to my liking.  However, good has come out of it.  I paid $44 on e-Bay, and the radio had $50 worth of NOS tubes in it.  Also, the IF cans both measured per the schematic and I rescued the gold dial plate and a replacement audio output transformer. The xfrmr is not a Philco original, has the marking 5575A and the date 8-39 stamped on the metal surround.  I'm goung to open it up and replace the lead wires.  It measures the same as the Philco xfrmr.  The 500K pot and switch are good, and I'm going to drill the rivets out that hold the variable cap on the chassis.  I have a National NC-60 Special on its way to me.  In the mean time I've bought some shelving to start storing all these radios on! Icon_smile   Joe]]>
.jpeg IMG_0132.jpeg Size: 212 KB  Downloads: 148

.jpeg IMG_0133.jpeg Size: 212 KB  Downloads: 148

.jpeg IMG_0134.jpeg Size: 212 KB  Downloads: 148

.jpeg IMG_0135.jpeg Size: 212 KB  Downloads: 149

.jpeg IMG_0136.jpeg Size: 212 KB  Downloads: 144


This level of fix-em-up is not to my liking.  However, good has come out of it.  I paid $44 on e-Bay, and the radio had $50 worth of NOS tubes in it.  Also, the IF cans both measured per the schematic and I rescued the gold dial plate and a replacement audio output transformer. The xfrmr is not a Philco original, has the marking 5575A and the date 8-39 stamped on the metal surround.  I'm goung to open it up and replace the lead wires.  It measures the same as the Philco xfrmr.  The 500K pot and switch are good, and I'm going to drill the rivets out that hold the variable cap on the chassis.  I have a National NC-60 Special on its way to me.  In the mean time I've bought some shelving to start storing all these radios on! Icon_smile   Joe]]> <![CDATA[Nice Philco Schematics]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26691 Thu, 03 Sep 2026 18:01:03 -0500 jamr005]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26691 Thanks,
Joe Miller]]> Thanks,
Joe Miller]]>