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I'm finishing a cabinet using Mohawk toner and have run into a problem. The can spit out drops on one of the sides while I was spraying. In a panic I wrapped a cloth on my finger and put some lacquer thinner on it to rub out the dots. The dots came out but now I can't get the toner to blend in evenly now that there are lighter spots from where the dots were.
What can I do about this?
Also, the toner adhered to the top of the cabinet a little rough and cloudy, almost like there was something in the air today. I rubbed it down lightly with some 0000 steel wool before applying any more coats and it smoothed out nicely. Can I use this method after the last coat of toner prior to moving on to the lacquer stage or is there something better I can do?
My first cabinet = learning curve........
Thanks//Rob
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You will have to strip and refinish. When toner spits it is usually due to not wiping the nozzle clean every few minutes. Never wipe off toner spits or runs while wet. you can try sanding them out when dry but it usually ends up in removing too much toner and then again having to strip. Once a toned area is wiped and the wood underneath is visible it will never tone to meet the remaining toner color.
The mist is not a problem and not something in the air. If you are sanding between coats (very lightly watching especially on the corners)
It will work out fine. The mist is just lacquer overspray and will adhere to the next coat. When you apply the clear it will automatically adhere to the whitish mist on the cabinet and fade away. I usually just wipe off the mist with a brush between coats. Sanding between coats will make it a lot easier to get a perfect flat finish without breaking your arm trying to do it all at once.
After the last coat you should sand to 2000 grit or more for a really fine finish. You want an even, dull finish when the cabinet is prepped and ready for polishing and waxing(if desired). I smooth the finish and then rottenstone the cabinet or use lemon oil and rub it in with felt wrapped around a piece of wood for a semi gloss shine. Then wax with johnsons paste wax in the yellow can. Very thin coats and buff it out to gloss. If the finish is uneven and has shiny spots after sanding, the spots will retain their shine but will always be visible.
Unless you want to add 40 coats of wax.
High number wet/dry sand paper can be purchased from auto stores and rottenstone can be found at constantines and the like. Otherwise good old lemon oil works great for a shine.
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(This post was last modified: 06-09-2014, 07:11 AM by
OldRestorer.)
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It is nearly impossible to spot or blend toner. I know this is not what you want to hear, but I think you will need to sand the toner off and try again. I have had to do it a few times.
Steve
M R Radios C M Tubes
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City: Boston MA
It's actually not down to the wood. The cabinet had the original finish so after a very light sand I toned over it with Perfect Brown Ultra Classic. When I rubbed out the spots it didn't go all the way down. I don't think this matters but it's worth asking. Assuming I need to sand it down should I go all the way around to the front since the side wraps around to the front (see photo)? My guess is the answer is yes.
[Image: http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b510...813b4e.jpg]
Side note - I really like the way the perfect brown looks after a bunch of passes. It ends up a deep color with a nice reddish, fire-like tint. It looks cool.
Thanks guys. Appreciate the tips.
Best//Rob
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yes, I think you will need to sand around the curve also..til it all looks close to the same. I find it hard to use a spray can on a big console and get it all even so I use a compressor/ spray gun, but you have to have the setup of course.
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I've had this problem with spitting from the mohawk cans as well.. like everyone else said, clean the nozzle. I've ended up sanding them down.
another tip, I've noted that the spitting can occur more often when the can is less than about 1/3 full.
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Warm the can up in hot water.
"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
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I have had a degree of success blending "oops" moments using 0000 steel wool and going very slowly.