[fields 100]

Can you, guys, advise me on the decent tube tester? With all other expenses
I can't shell out a lot, but at the same time do not want to get a junk,hence I am here again. There are plenty of those on the E-bay site, but in my budget category the only thing I can read in the description is "powers up" and no more. In case I pick up the "powers up" one, how difficult to bring it, if needed, to the operational condition? Thanks.

[hsusmann]

I have a Hickok 600A tester which works well for me. If you got one that needed work, this one is not too bad to work on.

I got a calibration procedure online for this also and you can get
calibration tubes also.

Prices I've seen lately on eBay can be $500 for one in good condition.

If you get a junker, the items that I've heard are costly are the meter and of course the multi-tap transformer. Other than that one should be able to rebuild one of these fairly easily if need be.

Herb S.
Ithaca NY

[TA Forbes]

The prices for tube testers on eBay are getting stupid.

1. If you have little experience working on electronic devices OR do not have other test equipment to use to troubleshoot/calibrate a tester, I strongly recommend you get a good working tester. Cost will be more....

2. If you can afford it, and considering the above, have someone fix/replace components/calibrate your new tester.

3. First choice should be a tester that measures the mutual conductance of a tube. Emissions testers do not give an accurate measurement of the tube. Also get a tester that will test shorts and gas. In my "opinion" the I-177 is, or should be, the most affordable of this variety. The Precise 111 WAS a good, affordable choice, but people are catching on to how good a tester they are.

4. Second choice would be a "dynamic conductance" tester like the Eico 666 or 667. They combine emission and mutual conductance to give a "dynamic" result. The Eico instruments are easy to work on, easy to calibrate, and give a FAIRLY reliable result. They do test for shorts, BUT do not offer a gas test. ALSO you must ensure that you get the updated tube settings that are online, as the Eico tester roll charts have errors.

[morzh]

TA,

As you said....Hickok 600.

BTW 600 for me is a bit more preferred vs 600A, it tests some old tubes 600A does not...or so I think.

I got lucky - I got mine on eBay for a decent price calibrated, and when using calibrated tubes it was right there (when I eventually figured how to use it thanks to you guys).

[hsusmann]

Re: 600 vs. 600A (Hickok).

I was able to find the settings for the older tubes online
for my 600A.

I can test 01A's, 24A's, 26, 27, 42, etc... The settings are not
on my roll chart but they are available if you search online.

The 600A does have the 4 pin, 5pin, 6 pin, 7 pin older sockets.
It does NOT have the newer compactron type sockets (11 pin etc...).

The 600A does test for gas in amplifier tubes (not rectifier) and
it will test for shorts and it will also test balast tubes.

They dropped the older tubes sometime in the 60's from the
roll charts because they didn't have room on the chart.

Herb

[morzh]

In any case, it is an excellent tester. I am not sure how much advantage you get with 800, or 6000, or even with 539B (which is of course the king of them all) - the thing is, you are buying this to fix radios and you need some minimum info which is well taken care of by 600, and do not necessarily need all that extra info from 539B, which is also twice the price.
I would not like the cheaper testers that are emission testers but not transconductance ones.

My vote is for 600 or 800.

[Bradley Rush]

Just starting you would want at least a Emission's testing Tube Tester. You can down load most manual's at http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/ to verify what they are.

You'll find most of these on e-bay will cost more. I started with a SENCOR that just did short checks.

This will help you look at the different types here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tube_tester
This is a pdf online that talks about testing a 12AU7 on different tube testers: TESTING THE 12AU7 ON VARIOUS TUBE TESTERS
Also look at Gm vs mu by Mike McCarty pdf file online let me know if you can not find them.

I myself have bounced around thru different testers. After doing so I have a 600 Hickok and a TV-7 Military both Calibrated. You can get a module Hickok CA-4 for a Hickok 6000 that will allow you to do the modern tubes. I have used it with my 600 it checked the tube out it did ok for the tube I had. After looking at them with both Calibrated and unCal tester's the best test if it is not short are open is putting them into the RADIO or Amp to check it out completely. I have not used any curve tracers but I am looking at making one just to see if it can show me performance that is equal to what it does in the RADIO. Curve tracer's would be the best if you are trying to match tubes for G Amps.

[TA Forbes]

The only advantage the 800A really has is that it includes some of the newer tube-sockets while keeping the four-pin and up sockets, and it is a "newer" (60s) tester. I have one and it is very acceptable.

The TV-7 is an excellent tester, well built, easy to calibrate and easy to use. My only gripe is that it does not measure directly in uMhos, although it IS a mutual conductance tester. It is also VERY pricey.

My ultimate testers are the Western Electric K15750 or the Triplett 3444, neither of which I own.

In addition to the 800A, I also use a Precise 111 and a Triplett 3423.

[Jamie]

No matter what tester you decide on, make sure it's got the right sockets for the tubes you want to test. Might sound like a stupid suggestion, but it is something easily overlooked during that first purchase. Most cheaper testers will not have sockets for every kind of tube.

[TA Forbes]

A good point that is often overlooked.