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Philco Flying Wedge 48-230
#31

I don't have a tube tester. Just check pin voltages.
#32

4.40 + volts
#33

Ok.

1. You said in the beginning you checked your tubes. I was operating under assumption you did. So you didn't.
2. The votage should be negaive.


Now, either check tubes or replace them with a known good ones, at least 14A7 to start, or get a sig gen.

We are walking blind.

If pulling 14A7 or 7a8, does any of it bring the voltage to 0?
#34

Sorry, what I meant before was I swapped tubes from a working radio.

Pulling each tube you mentioned separately and measuring I get 0 volts from each terminal.
#35

So you know for a fact every tube is a working one?
#36

The tubes I swapped are from a working radio, that's all I can tell you. That radio has new electro caps, but needs the others recapped. It doesn't pull in a ton but several stations came in pretty clearly. So, not 100% sure of every one being 100%.

I'm suspecting some wiring issues comparing the schematic to what I'm seeing.

The green wire from A5 side shows it going to pin 4 of 7A8 and mine's going to pin 6.

The white wire from A6 side shows it going to pin 6 of 7A8 and mine's going to the osc coil.

The other white wire attached to the center post in pic is connected to pin 5 of 50A5. I don't see this on schematic unless I'm reading it wrong.
#37

Are you sure your comparing the two from the right point, top or bottom of the socket? If I remember correctly the top of the socket the wires are numbered going counterclockwise and from the bottom it is numbered clockwise. Because the 7A8 is going to pin 4 or 6, maybe you are comparing them from top vs bottom. Just a thought.
#38

That is an interesting thought, but I'm looking at the bottom and counting the pins clockwise starting from pin 1 and then double checking starting from pin 8 counter clockwise to be sure. This one is wired differently than my Philco 48-200, which has almost an identical chassis setup. This picture is before restoration.

   
#39

If it is the case, and you are sure, 33 transformer HAS to go to pis 4 andnd 3 (A5 therefore goes to 4) as those are grid and plate of the osc.
A6. has to go to 6.


Do you see these not to be the factory and look like someone's work?
Coud be they rewired the chassis (rubber inuslation) and while doing it looked upon the tube from the top, not bottom.
#40

Do you have the loop antenna attached to the radio, I didn't see it your picture?

Gregb
#41

Yes he has, he answered that earlier when I asked him to see if it is continuous.
#42

OK, missed that.

Gregb
#43

You can see the green wire on pin 6 in the center of the pic above. I can tell it's been worked on because it has a newer polarized cord attached, it had a 20+20 electro added in addition to a 50+3 (see big tubes at top of pic), and I can see a bit of charring in the region of the 35Z5 tube, which leads me to guess something sparked in there and needed repairs. A few resistors were out of spec and replaced. The reason I swapped IF cans was that the second IF measured 63 ohms across the leads and should have been 20 or so, like the other 3 were.
#44

Make sure the other pins conform to the sch to check your pin-counting methode (I had some trouble myself do to the way the bottom of a loctal looks and I have trouble making sure the green comes to 6).

If it verifies, swap the pins according to the sch.
#45

Have you done anything to the power cord or is it still wired up as in the photo? It looks like they spliced a new cord onto the existing wires (black tape) and if they used a polarized plug, make sure the neutral is going to the switch.




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