01-11-2016, 04:59 PM
When I started this I swore that this time I was just going to work towards a sound electronic restoration--no fussing with chassis cosmetics or esthetics--and that it wasn’t worthwhile to disassemble the upper chassis parts. Yet here I am, cleaning the imprint on a transformer and removing the unsightly old rosin.
[Image: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sSGRM...520206.jpg]
And I thought that nobody would notice a few rust spots, but I ended up doing this:
[Image: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-64zjZ...520322.jpg]
This is not a particularly interesting restoration. Mine looks just like everyone else’s restoration.
[Image: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-beX13...520329.jpg]
When I got this far, I reviewed the extensive 41-255 restoration thread on Antiqueradio.com…
http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopi...&start=340
…and found that I had, indeed made at least one error. I hadn’t noticed that a capacitor to the tone control was 1000 volt-rated. I retrieved the old condenser to verify. It was, indeed, a 1000 volt cap.
[Image: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tskA_...520617.JPG]
I couldn’t find a .003-ohm cap to replace it (that must be one of Philco's "special" condensers), so I used a normal .003 uF cap instead (and I also healed the burn scar on the wire).
[Image: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FNCgr...520617.jpg]
The picture below shows my process when starting a restoration:
-Test all components that need testing.
-Mark those that need replacement with a red dot, those that are OK with a green dot, and the ones that need to be retested (like resistors that have to taken out of the circuit) with a yellow dot. Paper caps don't need dots.
-Desolder and disassemble each connection to components and wires that will be replaced and reattach the original wires and leads without soldering.
-On each tube socket, I mark the #1 pin with a red dot.
[Image: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pBoza...520371.jpg]
I have a question about the pilot lamp bulbs.
The dial lamp, 34-2210, with the blackened end: Is it frosted and does it have the peculiar horizontal filament (like the shadow meter)? And the button-indicator lamp, 34-2064 is frosted, but does it also have the horizontal filament? I’ve looked at all the bulbs from the set, and most may be replacements, but the filaments all have the same arc--even the one with the blackened tip.
[Image: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sSGRM...520206.jpg]
And I thought that nobody would notice a few rust spots, but I ended up doing this:
[Image: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-64zjZ...520322.jpg]
This is not a particularly interesting restoration. Mine looks just like everyone else’s restoration.
[Image: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-beX13...520329.jpg]
When I got this far, I reviewed the extensive 41-255 restoration thread on Antiqueradio.com…
http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopi...&start=340
…and found that I had, indeed made at least one error. I hadn’t noticed that a capacitor to the tone control was 1000 volt-rated. I retrieved the old condenser to verify. It was, indeed, a 1000 volt cap.
[Image: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tskA_...520617.JPG]
I couldn’t find a .003-ohm cap to replace it (that must be one of Philco's "special" condensers), so I used a normal .003 uF cap instead (and I also healed the burn scar on the wire).
[Image: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FNCgr...520617.jpg]
The picture below shows my process when starting a restoration:
-Test all components that need testing.
-Mark those that need replacement with a red dot, those that are OK with a green dot, and the ones that need to be retested (like resistors that have to taken out of the circuit) with a yellow dot. Paper caps don't need dots.
-Desolder and disassemble each connection to components and wires that will be replaced and reattach the original wires and leads without soldering.
-On each tube socket, I mark the #1 pin with a red dot.
[Image: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pBoza...520371.jpg]
I have a question about the pilot lamp bulbs.
The dial lamp, 34-2210, with the blackened end: Is it frosted and does it have the peculiar horizontal filament (like the shadow meter)? And the button-indicator lamp, 34-2064 is frosted, but does it also have the horizontal filament? I’ve looked at all the bulbs from the set, and most may be replacements, but the filaments all have the same arc--even the one with the blackened tip.
