[Arran]

It's not that hard to check the IF cans, you just need to trace out where the leads go from the schematic, if you are lucky the IF can will have terminals on the base rather then just wire leads coming out the bottom. There isn't really a need to remove the metal can to ohm out the coils, though there will be if one side appears to be open circuit. There is a grid lead that normally comes out of the top of one of the IF cans which will go to the grid cap of the 6K7 tube, usually connected to the secondary of the first IF can, the primary of the second IF can will be connected to the plate of the 6K7 tube at one end, and to the B+ on the other end. I was suggesting checking the grid cap leads as the wires tend to break internally after a time from the clips being removed and replaced from the grid caps of the tubes, the heat of the tubes can also cause the solder joints to fail on the clip end, sometimes the grid caps themselves will do this though it's less common on a metal tube then on a glass type. One time I had a radio that refused to work properly, and it turned out that I accidentally mixed up the grid cap leads on two of the tubes because they were right next to each other, I swapped them back and the radio roared to life.
Regards
Arran

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