05-26-2018, 04:54 PM
May 6.
It's the Sunday before Kutztown.
I need to replace the interconnect cables.
Why?
One of them feeds into the chassis with no strain relief...no clamp...no grommet. And the chassis had cut into the wires, leaving bare spots.
The other interconnect cable uses a clamp to hold the cable in place, oddly enough. But the wires of that cable looked to be rather dried out.
So, using a micrometer, about a month previously I had carefully measured the individual wires of the interconnect cable with the 10-pin connector (power leads). The four filament wires (two pair; one red, the other black) were both 14 gauge.
The wires for the power switch were 16 gauge.
The other wires were 20 gauge.
Cloth-covered wire I had on hand already could be used to replace the 20 gauge wires. But I had to purchase 14 and 16 gauge wires for the job.
These were found at a place I had never heard of, which sells cloth-covered wires for the vintage automotive crowd - Tom's Engine Barn.
They filled my order in a reasonable amount of time and soon, I had all of the wires I needed for the 10-conductor cable.
I also had to order a two-conductor cable with shield for the other interconnect cable (the audio cable). This I purchased from Mouser.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...90_067.jpg]
After some twisting of wires...
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...90_068.jpg]
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...90_069.jpg]
Both cables also received an outer braided covering purchased from Antique Electronic Supply. It's plastic rather than cloth, but it looks good.
Once the cables had been made and slipped into the braided coverings, I attached the individual wires inside the tuner chassis.
For the audio cable, which has no clamp or strain relief (and never did), I put a rubber grommet into the hole before passing the cable through the hole, to help protect the wires from what had happened to the original wires.
It's the Sunday before Kutztown.
I need to replace the interconnect cables.
Why?
One of them feeds into the chassis with no strain relief...no clamp...no grommet. And the chassis had cut into the wires, leaving bare spots.
The other interconnect cable uses a clamp to hold the cable in place, oddly enough. But the wires of that cable looked to be rather dried out.
So, using a micrometer, about a month previously I had carefully measured the individual wires of the interconnect cable with the 10-pin connector (power leads). The four filament wires (two pair; one red, the other black) were both 14 gauge.
The wires for the power switch were 16 gauge.
The other wires were 20 gauge.
Cloth-covered wire I had on hand already could be used to replace the 20 gauge wires. But I had to purchase 14 and 16 gauge wires for the job.
These were found at a place I had never heard of, which sells cloth-covered wires for the vintage automotive crowd - Tom's Engine Barn.
They filled my order in a reasonable amount of time and soon, I had all of the wires I needed for the 10-conductor cable.
I also had to order a two-conductor cable with shield for the other interconnect cable (the audio cable). This I purchased from Mouser.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...90_067.jpg]
After some twisting of wires...
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...90_068.jpg]
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...90_069.jpg]
Both cables also received an outer braided covering purchased from Antique Electronic Supply. It's plastic rather than cloth, but it looks good.
Once the cables had been made and slipped into the braided coverings, I attached the individual wires inside the tuner chassis.
For the audio cable, which has no clamp or strain relief (and never did), I put a rubber grommet into the hole before passing the cable through the hole, to help protect the wires from what had happened to the original wires.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
