04-20-2019, 11:05 PM
I'm pretty sure I got the schematic from Riders.
I have drilled a hole in the chassis rear and I have a nice polarized AC plug on a 6' cord so what I will probably end up doing is to solder the hot wire from the newly inserted cord to the existing internal prong that has a connection to the switch and solder the neutral side to the other prong.
That would do the same thing that the existing attached plug mount does and it would mean that the back cover could come off and the radio would still play. With the original non-polarized plug you could flip the hot and neutral sides anyway so I'm not concerned with polarity - just in replacing that damaged original cord and insuring that the AC port attached to the back cover is defunct.
I'm confident that this is a "floating chassis" set anyway so as long as I put the chassis back into the case I should be able to test it. If it powers up OK then I can move on to the recapping and wrap everything up.
I have drilled a hole in the chassis rear and I have a nice polarized AC plug on a 6' cord so what I will probably end up doing is to solder the hot wire from the newly inserted cord to the existing internal prong that has a connection to the switch and solder the neutral side to the other prong.
That would do the same thing that the existing attached plug mount does and it would mean that the back cover could come off and the radio would still play. With the original non-polarized plug you could flip the hot and neutral sides anyway so I'm not concerned with polarity - just in replacing that damaged original cord and insuring that the AC port attached to the back cover is defunct.
I'm confident that this is a "floating chassis" set anyway so as long as I put the chassis back into the case I should be able to test it. If it powers up OK then I can move on to the recapping and wrap everything up.
