04-12-2011, 10:35 PM
In order for all of the cabinet to match, the factory sprayed the cabinets with a clear lacquer sealer. With that, as sort of a platform, and dried somewhat, the final finish was applied. They used toned lacquer. This means lacquer that was colored with aniline dyes, such as fabric dyes (Rit, etc.). Doing that, the entire cabinet matched, and it was ready for the heated drying ovens, polishing, and having the chassis installed. This took care of the whitewood corner pieces matching the walnut, mahogany, or oak.
We have to do it a bit differently, though there's no reason why we couldn't do it as the factory did it. I usually stain the decorative woods (walnut, etc.). The whitewoods won't take stains, though you can stain them if you want. Stain dry, get our paste wood filler out. For walnut and mahogany, use brown filler. It's like peanut butter. If it's too thick, cut it slightly with enamel reducer. With a piece of burlap, wipe the filler on he piece ACROSS THE GRAIN. It will lodge in the grain pores. It will dry and harden rather quickly, so be prepared to have another piece of dry burlap, to wipe off the excess filler (across the grain). You'll see some places where the filler didn't stay in the pores, so you'll go over those places after you finish wiping off the excess. looking at the workpiece at an angle, you can see whether or not the filler did its stuff all over the piece. Once you have used filler, you can not apply any more stain. It won't work. I like to shoot on a coat of clear lacquer over the filled surface. You can now, mask off the stained and filled areas, and have a clear coat of lacquer on the whitewood. (It's usually basswood or gumwood) You can shoot the whole cabinet with a coat of clear after the filler. At his point, you'll mask off the decorative wood panels, and prepare the toned lacquer to do the whitewood pieces. You need a sealer coat on them, and the clear coat you've just done will be it.
Shoot your toned lacquer on the whitewood, light coats at a time, until you're satisfied that you like the match with the walnut, etc. (or whatever). Let the whole thing dry, and harden. It should set for a day or so. After that, off with the masking, and hit it with the final clear lacquer coat (s). Don't overdo the final finish. You'll be using Deft semi-gloss wood finish, unless you're going for one of those Grundig shaving mirror finishes. (after a few years, those finishes "crowfoot", and then, the fun begins)
Wet sand with #600 wetordry paper, then #400 steel wool, gently, then, a soft cloth pad, soaked in linseed oil, and dipped in rottenstone. Lots of elbow grease, and it's all over.
See how easy it is?
We have to do it a bit differently, though there's no reason why we couldn't do it as the factory did it. I usually stain the decorative woods (walnut, etc.). The whitewoods won't take stains, though you can stain them if you want. Stain dry, get our paste wood filler out. For walnut and mahogany, use brown filler. It's like peanut butter. If it's too thick, cut it slightly with enamel reducer. With a piece of burlap, wipe the filler on he piece ACROSS THE GRAIN. It will lodge in the grain pores. It will dry and harden rather quickly, so be prepared to have another piece of dry burlap, to wipe off the excess filler (across the grain). You'll see some places where the filler didn't stay in the pores, so you'll go over those places after you finish wiping off the excess. looking at the workpiece at an angle, you can see whether or not the filler did its stuff all over the piece. Once you have used filler, you can not apply any more stain. It won't work. I like to shoot on a coat of clear lacquer over the filled surface. You can now, mask off the stained and filled areas, and have a clear coat of lacquer on the whitewood. (It's usually basswood or gumwood) You can shoot the whole cabinet with a coat of clear after the filler. At his point, you'll mask off the decorative wood panels, and prepare the toned lacquer to do the whitewood pieces. You need a sealer coat on them, and the clear coat you've just done will be it.
Shoot your toned lacquer on the whitewood, light coats at a time, until you're satisfied that you like the match with the walnut, etc. (or whatever). Let the whole thing dry, and harden. It should set for a day or so. After that, off with the masking, and hit it with the final clear lacquer coat (s). Don't overdo the final finish. You'll be using Deft semi-gloss wood finish, unless you're going for one of those Grundig shaving mirror finishes. (after a few years, those finishes "crowfoot", and then, the fun begins)
Wet sand with #600 wetordry paper, then #400 steel wool, gently, then, a soft cloth pad, soaked in linseed oil, and dipped in rottenstone. Lots of elbow grease, and it's all over.
See how easy it is?
