11-29-2013, 01:35 PM
I don't know if you got an answer to your question about Chuck Schwark's service packages having a point-to-point wiring diagram. The routing of some wires is considered critical in some radios, and those wires are shown in diagrams, but most are not shown. There are usually top side and under side diagrams showing the location of every component by number, but wiring is typically not shown.
I've had very good luck with the method of desoldering one or two connections at a time, replacing the paper caps, testing resistors, micas, coils, wiring, etc. Usually, but not always, the radio comes up and works after I've done this because I've already replaced or repaired the defective components without troubleshooting. Stripping the chassis isn't needed from the electronics standpoint, but if you have lots of rust or mouse filth, it might be necessary.
Some restorers don't desolder components but cut them out and splice new ones to the existing leads. I've done that on a few radios. It works OK and is a good bit less work.
PS. Except for the filament pins, none of the tube pins should be connected to any other one. I don't have a tube tester. I test for shorts just by putting an ohm meter lead on each pin in turn and then touching all the other pins. You shouldn't get a beep unless you're touching the two (occasionally three) filament pins. Of course, you need a pin-out diagram. I've found two or three tubes with shorts, but it is rare.
I've had very good luck with the method of desoldering one or two connections at a time, replacing the paper caps, testing resistors, micas, coils, wiring, etc. Usually, but not always, the radio comes up and works after I've done this because I've already replaced or repaired the defective components without troubleshooting. Stripping the chassis isn't needed from the electronics standpoint, but if you have lots of rust or mouse filth, it might be necessary.
Some restorers don't desolder components but cut them out and splice new ones to the existing leads. I've done that on a few radios. It works OK and is a good bit less work.
PS. Except for the filament pins, none of the tube pins should be connected to any other one. I don't have a tube tester. I test for shorts just by putting an ohm meter lead on each pin in turn and then touching all the other pins. You shouldn't get a beep unless you're touching the two (occasionally three) filament pins. Of course, you need a pin-out diagram. I've found two or three tubes with shorts, but it is rare.
John Honeycutt
