05-22-2014, 01:57 PM
Looks to me like a good one for the impact driver.
Looks to me like the screw goes into the center pole.
Ron can probably verify that it is a continuous chunk of iron to the back and if it is a 1/4" screw.
Set it like the picture on a good hard surface.
Pick a bit that fits snugly in the slot of the screw or grind / file one to fit. They are 3/8" hex drive bits.
Setup the tool for unscrewing. Hold the end and hand torque it and it will toggle depending on which way you twist. You can test you got it correct by butting the bit on a metal surface and pushing down watch for the bit to turn CCW.
Fit the blade into the screw head. Use one hand to push straight down and twist till snug CCW (unscrew). Use a light hammer in the other hand and tap lightly. The tapping jars the threads, pushes the blade solidly into the slot and adds a bit more unscrew torque. You can get a lot of torque if you smack too hard so take it easy. If you must use penetrating oil just a drop or two it wicks and I would not want it around my cone / VC. Trade off would be: Do you want oil or to drill out and retap. The driver can develop way more torque than necessary to twist off the screw.
Might what to set up a practice screw locked into something with a jam nut to get the feel for how it works before you go for the gold.
You will wonder how you lived without one. Great for rusty auto bolts with oil as it jars the threads up and down as well as circular. Alternative when you don't want to heat with a torch or a rattle wrench is too much. Also on almost stripped out Philips heads.
Took me a lot of years to try one on small stuff. Wish I had sooner.
Looks to me like the screw goes into the center pole.
Ron can probably verify that it is a continuous chunk of iron to the back and if it is a 1/4" screw.
Set it like the picture on a good hard surface.
Pick a bit that fits snugly in the slot of the screw or grind / file one to fit. They are 3/8" hex drive bits.
Setup the tool for unscrewing. Hold the end and hand torque it and it will toggle depending on which way you twist. You can test you got it correct by butting the bit on a metal surface and pushing down watch for the bit to turn CCW.
Fit the blade into the screw head. Use one hand to push straight down and twist till snug CCW (unscrew). Use a light hammer in the other hand and tap lightly. The tapping jars the threads, pushes the blade solidly into the slot and adds a bit more unscrew torque. You can get a lot of torque if you smack too hard so take it easy. If you must use penetrating oil just a drop or two it wicks and I would not want it around my cone / VC. Trade off would be: Do you want oil or to drill out and retap. The driver can develop way more torque than necessary to twist off the screw.
Might what to set up a practice screw locked into something with a jam nut to get the feel for how it works before you go for the gold.
You will wonder how you lived without one. Great for rusty auto bolts with oil as it jars the threads up and down as well as circular. Alternative when you don't want to heat with a torch or a rattle wrench is too much. Also on almost stripped out Philips heads.
Took me a lot of years to try one on small stuff. Wish I had sooner.
