11-23-2014, 11:30 AM
Yes, the bad 7J7 socket was one of the tan-colored ones. The rest of the sockets in that radio are brown-colored, and don't seem to be cracking at all.
I don't have a donor Philco, but I recently bought some loctal wafers from AES that should fit. Unfortunately, they are oriented with the key slot aligned with the rivet holes, unlike the Philco sockets which have the rivet holes between pins 3 and 4. I don't think that will be much of a problem.
The 40-190 I bought from Ron a year of so ago used an octal 6J8 converter instead of the 7J7. The octal socket wafer in that radio fell to pieces, too. What is it with the converter tubes in 1940 Philcos that they used such crummy sockets?
I'll try a hair dryer first, as you suggested, Ron. Not sure how hot to get the coil, though, or for how long. I assume I shouldn't be melting any of the wax it's covered with. Is the object of heating it to drive off moisture?
I don't have a donor Philco, but I recently bought some loctal wafers from AES that should fit. Unfortunately, they are oriented with the key slot aligned with the rivet holes, unlike the Philco sockets which have the rivet holes between pins 3 and 4. I don't think that will be much of a problem.
The 40-190 I bought from Ron a year of so ago used an octal 6J8 converter instead of the 7J7. The octal socket wafer in that radio fell to pieces, too. What is it with the converter tubes in 1940 Philcos that they used such crummy sockets?
I'll try a hair dryer first, as you suggested, Ron. Not sure how hot to get the coil, though, or for how long. I assume I shouldn't be melting any of the wax it's covered with. Is the object of heating it to drive off moisture?
John Honeycutt
