05-21-2015, 09:40 PM
Here you go. I can email you a slightly higher resolution one if you want.
This was a pretty easy chassis to work on. Not cramped, and not too many parts. A few things on my refurbs you may wonder about.
I always parallel/series resistors to exactly hit odd ball values. I know most modern stock values will work fine. I'm just anal that way.
I always overrate my CT bias resistors. Which is why I have a 3.75W and 2W resistors in place of the 1/2W rated ones. These resistors usually have a fair amout of current through them. But that varies by radio design. Again, just an anal thing.
I replace all resistors, even those in spec. Usually 25-50% are already drifted high. And its a matter of time before the rest drift high. I only want to refurb a chassis once, so they all get replaced.
I pretty much always replace micas. This is personal choice and hotly debated. My stance is that too many people have started to see them fail, and again - I only want to refurb a chassis once.
I often use a 1 lug terminal strip to attach the "foot" to the old lytic cans. The top lug is not connected, so it gives you a nice handy tie point pretty close to the original.
This was a pretty easy chassis to work on. Not cramped, and not too many parts. A few things on my refurbs you may wonder about.
I always parallel/series resistors to exactly hit odd ball values. I know most modern stock values will work fine. I'm just anal that way.
I always overrate my CT bias resistors. Which is why I have a 3.75W and 2W resistors in place of the 1/2W rated ones. These resistors usually have a fair amout of current through them. But that varies by radio design. Again, just an anal thing.
I replace all resistors, even those in spec. Usually 25-50% are already drifted high. And its a matter of time before the rest drift high. I only want to refurb a chassis once, so they all get replaced.
I pretty much always replace micas. This is personal choice and hotly debated. My stance is that too many people have started to see them fail, and again - I only want to refurb a chassis once.
I often use a 1 lug terminal strip to attach the "foot" to the old lytic cans. The top lug is not connected, so it gives you a nice handy tie point pretty close to the original.
