07-29-2018, 12:18 AM
With the cabinet done it's time for the chassis service. Cap order came in the other day so now I have plenty of .05 and .01s. At 1st glance the chassis is pretty cramped with lots of parts. The filter cap (original was replaced many yrs ago) is a small twist loc style rather than tubular one w/ wires protruding. To make things difficult the little top hat bias battery and holder are riveted to the chassis right smack over the bottom of the filter cap. Before I started in on it I did power it up and it was "working" w/a fair amount of hum and ac modulation on signals heard.
I was able to unsolder the old cap and restuff it. Physically it was the wrong diameter (too small). Resoldering it was a bit of a job because access is poor.
Rebuild the bakelite blocks again had to unsolder them as the wiring is such that they are unmovable else wise. On the top of the chassis there is an unfriendly can w/ abt 6 or7 paper caps in it (#12 mounted behide the spkr). Most of them are bypasses w/a common connection to B- but there is a coupling cap and the one that is connected across the rectifier tube. It snaps in place but the snaps are buried under a bunch of wires and terminals. Cut on the wires off at the bottom and traced them when I got the can ready to reinstall. Deleted the coupling cap and the one across the rectifier. The 1st one I wired in at the sockets and the other I move it to be connected across the line when the switch is on.
After I got all the caps replaced I powered it up to find it's doa now.
More later.
I was able to unsolder the old cap and restuff it. Physically it was the wrong diameter (too small). Resoldering it was a bit of a job because access is poor.
Rebuild the bakelite blocks again had to unsolder them as the wiring is such that they are unmovable else wise. On the top of the chassis there is an unfriendly can w/ abt 6 or7 paper caps in it (#12 mounted behide the spkr). Most of them are bypasses w/a common connection to B- but there is a coupling cap and the one that is connected across the rectifier tube. It snaps in place but the snaps are buried under a bunch of wires and terminals. Cut on the wires off at the bottom and traced them when I got the can ready to reinstall. Deleted the coupling cap and the one across the rectifier. The 1st one I wired in at the sockets and the other I move it to be connected across the line when the switch is on.
After I got all the caps replaced I powered it up to find it's doa now.
More later.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
