06-28-2023, 05:05 PM
Hi Everyone,
Thank you all for your help here. I have found the schematic , in the Beitmans publication on page 30.So thank you .
I must apologise. I got one number wrong having found the correct image on https://www retroradioshop.com. When I transferred this number to the Phorum I put in a 9 instead of a 6 as the second to last number. It is not a good idea to do these things late at night.I am sorry to have sent folk on a wild goose chase.
With the schematic the mystery of the tone control has become clear.
Also my set has a 6X5 as rectifier in place of the OZ4.
As found I was surprised to find there was an ( alien plastic jumper) wire soldered directly to the valve pin of the 6X5 (pin 2 )( there being no actual tag in the valve socket )from the plate condenser and a second (alien plastic ) wire from tag 7 to chassis . I assumed this was because the pin 2 tag on the valve base had broken off perhaps because of rough handling so the only way to "light up "the 6X5 was to solder direct to the valve pin .Now I know this was to employ a 6X5 in a socket made for an OZ4.
Either way it all works pretty well now .Also intrigued to find where the dial light is supposed to be connected _ to the dimmer switch.Again , sorry for the wild goose chase.Thank you all.
Thank you all for your help here. I have found the schematic , in the Beitmans publication on page 30.So thank you .
I must apologise. I got one number wrong having found the correct image on https://www retroradioshop.com. When I transferred this number to the Phorum I put in a 9 instead of a 6 as the second to last number. It is not a good idea to do these things late at night.I am sorry to have sent folk on a wild goose chase.
With the schematic the mystery of the tone control has become clear.
Also my set has a 6X5 as rectifier in place of the OZ4.
As found I was surprised to find there was an ( alien plastic jumper) wire soldered directly to the valve pin of the 6X5 (pin 2 )( there being no actual tag in the valve socket )from the plate condenser and a second (alien plastic ) wire from tag 7 to chassis . I assumed this was because the pin 2 tag on the valve base had broken off perhaps because of rough handling so the only way to "light up "the 6X5 was to solder direct to the valve pin .Now I know this was to employ a 6X5 in a socket made for an OZ4.
Either way it all works pretty well now .Also intrigued to find where the dial light is supposed to be connected _ to the dimmer switch.Again , sorry for the wild goose chase.Thank you all.
