03-10-2012, 04:29 AM
Got the fuse holder in, and it all works, after having to replace a bad power transformer.
Used two X-Y rated safety caps for line isolation, inside the Bakelite housing that originally
contained two .01uf caps. After some searching, I finally found ceramic ones rated at 250v
that were physically small enough to fit into the Bakelite block. I'd previously used the big
square safety caps on the AC/DC sets I'd worked on.
I did install the polarized plug, though it probably doesn't make much difference as
someone here pointed out.
Got the set playing well on AM, and at a stopping point for now. I need to re-install the
push-button assembly, order a plastic dial cover, and order the longer version repro
push-buttons. And gently touch up the original finish of the cabinet.
I didn't get any signals on SW, but I'll check on that later on.
Many thanks to all who took the time to reply.
Regards,
Clarence
Used two X-Y rated safety caps for line isolation, inside the Bakelite housing that originally
contained two .01uf caps. After some searching, I finally found ceramic ones rated at 250v
that were physically small enough to fit into the Bakelite block. I'd previously used the big
square safety caps on the AC/DC sets I'd worked on.
I did install the polarized plug, though it probably doesn't make much difference as
someone here pointed out.
Got the set playing well on AM, and at a stopping point for now. I need to re-install the
push-button assembly, order a plastic dial cover, and order the longer version repro
push-buttons. And gently touch up the original finish of the cabinet.
I didn't get any signals on SW, but I'll check on that later on.
Many thanks to all who took the time to reply.
Regards,
Clarence
