10-28-2012, 08:12 PM
Recently found a Philco 15X here in NC. Cabinet resto will be in a different thread, probably next year as the weather here is getting too cold to work lacquer in my garage.
Chassis all there with some minor molestations. (both electrolytics, one resistor, some taped wiring)
All coils/transformers tested good with the exception of the detector coil (#15 on schematic). Primary was open, and attempts to find the break resulted in discovering that all of the wire was too brittle to be trusted. A victim of the HNO3 problem early Philco coils had.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa37...012009.jpg
Above is the chassis after removal of the tuning condenser, filter choke, interstage transformer. I removed the volume and tone controls and the power transformer after the pic was shot. I am using blue tape to mask all sockets and holes in the chassis to protect the components and wiring under the chassis.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa37...012011.jpg
Above is a different view. You can from here see that I have removed the cover to the filter bank. The caps inside the can literally fell out!!! If only all of them were so easy!
In the background of both pics you can see the two Mershons I intend to use in this resto. They will be re-stuffed with 50mFd electrolytic caps. Just kidding, they really will have 6.8 electrolytics installed.
I intend to use several methods to clean the chassis and remove rust. My plan is to have it, the tuning condenser, and the large tube shield in natural metal appearance. The only parts I will paint will be the power transformer, filter choke, and interstage transformer. Two parts I may have to paint will be the filter bank can and the round tube shield, as I am not sure that cleaning and rust removal will do them justice. FYI thanks to my friend and mentor Bob Timms for chassis resto advice.
The tuning condenser has been washed using HOT soapy water, then thoroughly dried, then washed down with WD-40.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa37...012010.jpg
Above is a manilla folder (pholder??) that is being used to diagram everything I do to the radio. Using the folder gives you four durable pages on which you can do this. I strongly recommend diagramming when you are restoring a set.
After I have made some more progress, I will post part 2 with pics.
Chassis all there with some minor molestations. (both electrolytics, one resistor, some taped wiring)
All coils/transformers tested good with the exception of the detector coil (#15 on schematic). Primary was open, and attempts to find the break resulted in discovering that all of the wire was too brittle to be trusted. A victim of the HNO3 problem early Philco coils had.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa37...012009.jpg
Above is the chassis after removal of the tuning condenser, filter choke, interstage transformer. I removed the volume and tone controls and the power transformer after the pic was shot. I am using blue tape to mask all sockets and holes in the chassis to protect the components and wiring under the chassis.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa37...012011.jpg
Above is a different view. You can from here see that I have removed the cover to the filter bank. The caps inside the can literally fell out!!! If only all of them were so easy!
In the background of both pics you can see the two Mershons I intend to use in this resto. They will be re-stuffed with 50mFd electrolytic caps. Just kidding, they really will have 6.8 electrolytics installed.
I intend to use several methods to clean the chassis and remove rust. My plan is to have it, the tuning condenser, and the large tube shield in natural metal appearance. The only parts I will paint will be the power transformer, filter choke, and interstage transformer. Two parts I may have to paint will be the filter bank can and the round tube shield, as I am not sure that cleaning and rust removal will do them justice. FYI thanks to my friend and mentor Bob Timms for chassis resto advice.
The tuning condenser has been washed using HOT soapy water, then thoroughly dried, then washed down with WD-40.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa37...012010.jpg
Above is a manilla folder (pholder??) that is being used to diagram everything I do to the radio. Using the folder gives you four durable pages on which you can do this. I strongly recommend diagramming when you are restoring a set.
After I have made some more progress, I will post part 2 with pics.
