04-23-2013, 03:35 PM
When I align my 1941 table sets I put the chassis and the cabinet back to back and connect the wires to the loop with the loop still mounted in the cabinet. I can get to the trimmers that way, so I don't need to reach inside the cabinet. When I reinstall the chassis, the dial alignment does change a very little.
That technique might be harder with a console, but you can figure out a way. I did it with my 41-280 by putting a tall stool behind the console. I put the chassis on that stool, right behind the console, so I could connect the wires from the loop. The dial alignment ended up very close.
I don't know if in your set the dial glass comes out with the cabinet, but I think it probably does. On those sets with the glass mounted on the cabinet, I put the chassis in the cabinet and slide the pointer to the low frequency mark with the tuning condenser closed. Then I use the tuner knob to set the pointer at the reference frequencies and mark the position of the pointer with a sharpie on the back of plate the pointer slides on. That way I can put the pointer pretty close to the correct frequencies with the chassis out before I turn the trimmers.
By the way, I never had any real difficulty with weird noises and images with my 1941 sets on a long wire test antenna, but the 40-150 has a more complicated loop that might explain it. I was at my wits end and finally decided to give up and live with the noises and images, but when I put the chassis back in the cabinet with the loop connected properly, they all went away. They were all caused by my long wire test antenna.
That technique might be harder with a console, but you can figure out a way. I did it with my 41-280 by putting a tall stool behind the console. I put the chassis on that stool, right behind the console, so I could connect the wires from the loop. The dial alignment ended up very close.
I don't know if in your set the dial glass comes out with the cabinet, but I think it probably does. On those sets with the glass mounted on the cabinet, I put the chassis in the cabinet and slide the pointer to the low frequency mark with the tuning condenser closed. Then I use the tuner knob to set the pointer at the reference frequencies and mark the position of the pointer with a sharpie on the back of plate the pointer slides on. That way I can put the pointer pretty close to the correct frequencies with the chassis out before I turn the trimmers.
By the way, I never had any real difficulty with weird noises and images with my 1941 sets on a long wire test antenna, but the 40-150 has a more complicated loop that might explain it. I was at my wits end and finally decided to give up and live with the noises and images, but when I put the chassis back in the cabinet with the loop connected properly, they all went away. They were all caused by my long wire test antenna.
John Honeycutt
