12-18-2013, 01:46 PM
codefox1;
Yes I agree, red for B+. Philco seems to have used some yellow, some green and some red for the filaments and dial lamp leads. I like to use green for safety ground (if present), black or gray for AC, black for ground. Philco did seem to use some white and blue for IF transformer B+ so I stayed with what they originally used except for the B+ input where I did use red. The later convention on filaments that I saw in the 1950s was brown for filaments, so here I stayed consistent with that except for the dial lamp leads where I used pretty much the original colors as best I could tell. Many of the cloth jacketed wires are so faded and changed in color it is really hard to tell. The schematic is sometimes silent on the issue of color of wires.
I decided early on that I was not going to try to duplicate the cloth wiring as I was unable to find the types I wanted, so plastic insulation it is. Since the chassis is already painted and does not look original it did not make sense to me to go to elaborate lengths to try to keep a completely original look to everything under the chassis. Some people would want to and I have no problem with that.
I did some B+ wiring today and stopped to wait for one wire wound dropping resistor to make up for a lower resistance in the field core speaker compared to the original. I is only off about 60-80 ohms depending on which ohm meter I use. I ordered both values so I can try each one to see which gets closest to the voltage shown in the schematic.
Cheers!
Joe
Yes I agree, red for B+. Philco seems to have used some yellow, some green and some red for the filaments and dial lamp leads. I like to use green for safety ground (if present), black or gray for AC, black for ground. Philco did seem to use some white and blue for IF transformer B+ so I stayed with what they originally used except for the B+ input where I did use red. The later convention on filaments that I saw in the 1950s was brown for filaments, so here I stayed consistent with that except for the dial lamp leads where I used pretty much the original colors as best I could tell. Many of the cloth jacketed wires are so faded and changed in color it is really hard to tell. The schematic is sometimes silent on the issue of color of wires.
I decided early on that I was not going to try to duplicate the cloth wiring as I was unable to find the types I wanted, so plastic insulation it is. Since the chassis is already painted and does not look original it did not make sense to me to go to elaborate lengths to try to keep a completely original look to everything under the chassis. Some people would want to and I have no problem with that.
I did some B+ wiring today and stopped to wait for one wire wound dropping resistor to make up for a lower resistance in the field core speaker compared to the original. I is only off about 60-80 ohms depending on which ohm meter I use. I ordered both values so I can try each one to see which gets closest to the voltage shown in the schematic.
Cheers!
Joe
