[jerryhawthorne]

Thanks Phlotistan or ? Still with my dim bulb for a brain, mind if I just give you credit under the name Phlog? Appreciate your help and thanks for the explaination.

Jerry

[Phlogiston]

Sure.

Did you see the pictures of the finished cabinet?

http://www.philcoradio.com/phorum/showth...031&page=2

By the way, I used a couple of rubber spacers only on the front of mine. They were about 1/4 inch thick, BUT, I do not think that there were spacers in there from the factory. Simply, the board supporting the front of the chassis sagged a bit. If yours has the knobs with the thick shaft (the area that penetrates the cabinet) you may want to switch to the earlier version with the thin shaft. They look the same and centering the chassis using them is not nearly so critical. They came on the 1929s. Lots of them around. Just don’t tell Ron that you are using the wrong knobs.

[jerryhawthorne]

Phlog, nice job on the cabinet. Mine had spacers on all four corners in various degrees of deterioration. I will let you know how the new ones work out. They do stand about 3/8 " high. Soft so possibly I can get the chassis aligned to the control holes. Still trying to figure out the location of the short resistor (brown /green) under the cap bank. Lifted off along with one wire on one end to install a replacement cap for one apparently bad in the can. The other end came loose when installing caps from above. Strange color codes used on this radio!

Edit: I think I figured it out. It is item 51 on the schematic, a 25K resistor going from pin 1 to pin 6 on the block cap base? Any confirmation?

Jerry

[jerryhawthorne]

Well, with the big can stuffed and the cap back on, I brought it up again slowly on the variac. Dang if it didn't start receiving my SSTRANS which frankly a crystal set would blow you away. At least it still works like it did at the start of the restoration. Apparently I didn't screw things up on the can. Still distorted and weak on volume. Time now to move on to the resistors and cap blocks a few at a time. I did run my sig gen through the antenna at its lowest output setting and across the AM dial the tone was dead on to the radio reading. Hope the coils are good, sounds promising.

Jerry

[jerryhawthorne]

Well, finally finished the bakelite caps and time to fire it up again. I think I have a handle on the resistor values now, not that I understand the color scheme. Fired it up and well, still works, perhaps a little better. Still need to go through the resistors. Sound is garbled. I know the 45s are really weak, measuring 8 and 10 on my precision. Need to get through the resistors next and see if that perks up the radio a little. Pics from the underside where I have tried to identify and mark the various resistors.
Jerry

[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129...0002-6.jpg]

[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129...0003-6.jpg]

Edit: I thought I would add a note. Changed my approach slightly to resuffing the bakelite caps. Still used the small drill in hand drill and half a turn to snap off the wires on top while the pot is still mounted to the chassis. Then the heat gun carefully around the top and sides for maybe 45 seconds. Then the paperclip opened up and pushed through the holes. Yup, I could feel and see the tar and parts push down to the chassis. Remove the attaching bolt and lift up the block. Remove the tar mass typically as one piece. Restuff, turn back over and remount. Then solder the wires from the components back from the top. Found it easier to heat while the block was still mounted. Before I would lift it up first and heat but then you had to grab it with a towel or something to hold and push. Easier to do with it mounted and release it with a paper clip wire. Let it cool a little. Remove the bolt and take out the insides. Did all on this radio and never removed any attaching wires. Love it!

[jerryhawthorne]

Mounted a fuse holder under the chassis, can anyone suggest a proper fuse size to use?
Thanks, Jerry

[Radioroslyn]

You may want to check the resistances (both pri and sec) of your driver transformer. Common problem for them to open up over the years.
Terry

[TA Forbes]

Use the equation P=IE, where P is power in watts, I is current, and E is volts. The 111 uses ~60 watts at 110V, so you would set up the equation as: 60= I X 110.

I= 60/110

I= .55A

In my opinion, a 1A fuse should be adequate.

[jerryhawthorne]

Thanks Terry and TA for your inputs. I will go with a 1 amp slow blow for the fuse and Terry, you had me worried. I checked the driver xformer and all looks good.
Jerry

[jerryhawthorne]

TA, one more question and thanks for providing information for the fuse size based on the current draw. My 112 says on the label on the back, " 120 watts at,well, don't quite remember the line voltage, something like 110 or 115. Seems like 60 watts for this receiver is low. No label on the shield any more. Missing like most. Can't find a current requirement for the model anywhere. Checked Ron's book but don't include current requirements, just voltage.
Thanks for you input.

Jerry

[jerryhawthorne]

Finished all resistors but one, it measured right on. All caps done and brought it up on the variac. Volume level, not bad but won't rock the house. Seems still a little distorted at higher volumes, not as bad as when I first tested it upon receipt. All tubes test below 50% on my Precision 912. The worse are the 45s at 8 and 10%. It is the slight distortion that is bothering me. Worse, those that can hear (high frequencies elude me) hold their hands over their ears and say "can't you hear that high squeal". Well no.
Any ideas out there? Something oscillating? Tube shield is in place.

Thanks for your ideas. Jerry

[codefox1]

Try a small value cap, say .001, at least 1000 volt type across the plates of the 45's, dressed close as possible. That should take care of the oscillation, which in turn will reduce the distortion at lower frequencies. Mind lead dress also of any components you replaced along the way as well. Check progress with a kid.

[TA Forbes]

If 120 watts, use this for your equation in order to come up with the correct number of amps for your fuse value.

[jerryhawthorne]

Well, this post is a mixture of various parts of working my way through my 111. I thought I might share with the construction of a trimmer adjustment tool first. I know I have seen a thread on this some time ago, some where but seems to me it involved some plastic material I don't have. After working on my 112 with a 1/4" socket and small ratchet due to the fact my spin tight was not long enough and suffering through adjust, remove the adjusting tool and finding it was off. Repeat until such time you got the best. Well not fun so I decided to find something to make a devise that would not mess up the adjustment.
I started by looking in my junk pile and found a 1/4" standoff. Nice, it had some length to it. Next, some heat shrink tubing, it was a tight fit over the standoff. I knew it wasn't going to be strong enough for the handle so I found some drip line plastic tubing that went inside the shrink tubing with a fair fit. Pushed down to the standoff. Hit the whole thing with the heat gun. Gave the handle some strength.
Next, about 1/2" of the same tubing which took a while to stretch open to a larger inside diameter and worked it over the nut end of the assembly. Once again, heat gun. Now I had a double thickness for the operating end. Removed the stand off and indeed a nice 1/4" nut driver. Still was not as tough as I figured I needed for cracking open those trimmers that had been in one place for 70+ years. So, a nice thick coat over the operating end with JB Weld. Made it quite tough and easy to break those trimmers to start moving. Something one can do with materials in most of your shops.
Next is a picture of the shield for the 111. I know what the label is suppose to look like on the back. I have a reproduced one made for the 111. Could someone please advise me of the current part of the label? I can change the model # and perhaps the P/N but uncertain of the watts.
One more question, if you look at the top of the shield, it appears that there was a larger label on the top. No idea what it was or what it looks like. Any help or a picture so it might be reproduced?
Thanks for you inputs. I will be posting again on this thread on my findings or lack there of on the high pitched noise everyone can hear but me. I finally got around to hooking up my scope and it doesn't look like oscillation. It is what I would call random and frequent spikes of noise. Something like I would expect with some part breaking down. All caps with the exception of the mica ones have been replaced all resistors out of spec as well.
I apologize for the mixture of items on this thread but thought it would be better to keep it in one place.
Thanks again for your help.
Jerry

[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129...e002-2.jpg]

[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129...e001-5.jpg]

[Image: http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn129...0001-8.jpg]

[TA Forbes]

Make sure your filter block and electrolytics are correct. Usually the problem here is NOT intermittant, but more of a constant squealing.

After a major rebuild like this one the problem is often self induced. I always go first to what I just repaired.

Have you checked all of your coils for the proper resistance?