11-20-2013, 11:28 AM
Any suggestions on how to clean up the chassis on this Philco 91 cathedral? Thanks, Charlie
Cleaning Up Chassis
11-20-2013, 11:28 AM
Any suggestions on how to clean up the chassis on this Philco 91 cathedral? Thanks, Charlie
11-20-2013, 03:17 PM
Charlie, I'm no expert and others will surely offer their thoughts that are specific to the 91 but here are the steps I've taken.
- After I get the chassis out of the cabinet I start dusting off the larger pieces of crud that have accumulated with a small brush. Some folks use compressed air to blow things off. - I pull all the tubes, (i'd check them at this point if I had a tester but I don't), clean them with a paper towel and isopropyl alcohol, clean the tube pins with fine sandpaper or a nail file, and then store them away until I'm done recapping. I clean the sockets with a little deoxit and a wire. - Next I'll start taking the dirt and grime off the chassis with Q-tips & paper towels using isopropyl alcohol. - After that I'll decide how much farther to go depending on the shape its in. A little rust gets naval jelly treatments until its gone; lots of rust and I've stripped the chassis components, taken all the rust off with naval jelly plus some mechanical abrasion; primed and painted the chassis (lots of discussion in other threads on whether to do that or not). Tuning cap, power transformer etc., tube shields get cleaned, lubed as needed. Simichrome or other metal polish can be used particularly on the aluminum cap cans if you like the polished look. ---> Check out Bob Andersen's Youtube on Chassis Cleaning @ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYLk5oQKvNA
11-20-2013, 05:25 PM
If I have no rust I use Windex. Works just fine. Isopropyl alcohol also works fine.
if the dirt is stubborn and cannot be removed by either one I found out the Naval Jelly takes care of it and at the same time brightens the chassis. Just try not to let it get to the wiring.
11-21-2013, 04:18 PM
I might also suggest when cleaning chassis I always use masking tape on the tube sockets to keep any liquid out of them. The construction of those sockets lends itself well to liquid working its way between the wafers. A real no-no especially on the rectifier with HV AC. I have smoked a couple sockets. Naval jelly will guarantee smoke if it gets inside.
Jerry A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
11-21-2013, 04:35 PM
Here's my current arsenal for fighting rust. Take no prisoners
[Image: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5536/10485...2f1e_c.jpg] Seriously though - I recently tried Evapo-Rust for the first time and it's incredible stuff! Acid free, non-toxic, doesn't harm other metals or plastics, and works great Similar to using Molasses, but a lot faster. T-9 Boeshield is good follow up is you;d prefer to not paint. It's a thin solvent based wax you can spray or bush on the bare metal. Th solvent evaporates leaving a thin protective barrier. Here's my current patient. It's tempting to chuck the whole chassis into Evapo-Rust, but I'm concerned about the tube sockets as mentioned above. [Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7370/10239...6860_b.jpg] [Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7429/10747...7087_c.jpg] [Image: http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2810/10239...9f5a_c.jpg] [Image: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3807/10747...800b_c.jpg] A little buffing will remove the discoloration. [Image: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3787/10767...107a_c.jpg]
11-21-2013, 04:43 PM
Dang Bob, you are the "rust killer". That stuff seems to work.
Jerry A friend in need is a pest! Bill Slee ca 1970.
11-21-2013, 05:28 PM
Bob, thanks for that info on Evapo-Rust! I'll have to give it a try. I noticed on their web page that they have a rust inhibiting product, Rust Bandit, that provides post de-rusting protection like the T-9 you mention. I haven't tried it but if their Evapo-Rust is good, perhaps that is too.
11-21-2013, 05:58 PM
There's another product called "Metal Rescue Rust Remover Bath" that Home Depot carries. I think it's the same stuff more or less.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Workshop-Hero.../203247483
11-21-2013, 10:40 PM
After I've cleaned a chassis I usually give it a wipe and buff with some good car wax. It tends to give it a bit of a shine, and it will help keep the tarnish from returning for a few years.
Tom
11-23-2013, 11:40 AM
I agree with Bob on the Evaporust product. I watched his You Tube video on it and bought some from my local Autozone store. It works great!!!!! Much better than Naval Jelly.
Kevin
11-23-2013, 02:00 PM
If there is only some light surface discoloration on the tube pins it may be possible to remove that level of tarnish with a pink pearl eraser. They have a very fine abrasive in them which is kinder to metal surfaces than sandpaper or a nail file. Deoxit it an excellent cleaning chemical for tube sockets. It can be used on the tube pins also. I used to use a typewriter eraser on more stubborn surfaces years ago, but since there are precious few typewriters still in use those would be hard to come by now.
Joe
11-23-2013, 09:07 PM
Evapo-rust is the bomb. I've been using it on clock parts for years. And if you don't wipe it off and let it dry it leaves a rust resistant coating on the metal. Don't think i'd leave it in sockets though. Could give bad electrical connections or shorts if not fully dry. Unless you washed it afterwards and blew it dry with an airhose.
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