[Warren]

Sounds like a good idea to me. Buy it there , it will be a perfect match and you just need to cut it to fit and finish with toner and clear.

[morzh]

More Qs:

There is something asymmetrical about the sides of the cabinet at the bottom.
The photos of the bottom are taken with the very bottom sheet taken off after I removed the tacks - there was no glue.


Notice the inner side lining sheet well-aligned on this side of the cabinet.
   
Not so aligned here - goes in between the outer siding and the base.
So it gets closer to the bottom.
   
As the result the bottom is inclined on this side.
   
Whereas on the other it is leveled.
   

So before I glue anything I'd like to understand how to even it out.
I tried to apply an effort to pull the bottom down and to release that inner side sheet - no, it wouldn't move, Any stronger effort I felt would just rip the bottom out. Could it be someone tended to the cabinet and glued and tacked everything this way?

Also the bottom sheets you see on the last two photos, they do not have any glue holding them in between them and the base either. However at the edges something holds these two sheets (the bottom sheet left now is two pieces, you could kinda see a part of the gap between them on the last photo at the right bottom corner) and does not let them just come off and reveal the base.

   

[Warren]

On your first picture is obviously the way both sides should be. The other side needs taken off and put back just like the first picture. It looks like the 2nd side was warped from the bottom getting pushed in to far. That is one reason why I thought you ight want to take the bottom off completely and straighten it out all by itself , then when you put it back in you can get it in the right position on both sides. If you dont see any nails/staples holding it in then it must be glued somehow. I think I would try prying apart very slowly and carefully until you can tell for sure how it is connected together. Is there a channel that the bottom is sliding into? I cant tell.

[Mondial]

There are nails under the trim molding, which extend through the side into the bottom panel. To remove the nails, you have to remove the molding strip first. The molding has its own set of nails plus glue.

[morzh]

Warren

No there seem to be no channel.

Mondial

Yes there seem to be finishing nails. Though these I am not sure were not put there for other reason than holding the pieces together....which BTW all the more reason to change these two pieces of trim, where the corner is cut.
The nails can be seen here.

   

Here it is from the top.
Also the nails' caps are seen.

   

[Warren]

Might be good to replace the trim on all 3 sides, they would match each other well then. What do you think?

[morzh]

Probably makes sense; after all the trim is the only part that is really damaged here.
I guess I will have to go and order it.

How is the trim held, nails? Nails+glue?

[Warren]

Yes, it is usually held in place with wood glue and they put small nails in to help hold it in place especially while the glue is drying. The finish nails used wouldn't hold to well all by themselves for any length of time. You can fill in the holes from the finish nails with wood putty or grain filler before you use toner and clear if you like.

[morzh]

Oh boy, what did I get myself into......woodwork! I'od rather restore 100 chassis than repair one trimming piece.

[Warren]

haha.. I have to agree, I hate sanding. When done though, it's finally worth it.

[Jamie]

I think you are on the right track. It is my guess that this radio was dropped at some point and the cabinet was damaged. Someone tried to repair it and didn't do a very good job. That would account for the broken corner and the misaligned base. The best thing is that wood can almost always be repaired.

It's impossible to tell from photos just how tight that joint is held together. If there is any looseness, you might be able to pop it down by laying a hard, straight edge across the bottom of the trim, from one side to the other, then use a clamp to press the bottom down. Glue it and you will be set. Keep your ears open for any cracking sounds and go very slow on tightening the clamp. Any cracking, then stop.

[morzh]

OK, so:

what if I want to make a learning project out of this cabinet.

I have zero (I mean - TOTAL ZILCH of a ZIPPO of a DOODLEY SQUAT) of

1. Woodwork experience.
2. Tools.

Suppose I think the trim should be re-done.

What are my step-by-step action items?
Including buying the trim, possibly base material, steel wool, fillers, laquers, brushes.....EVERYTHING.

Could someone mentally go through the buying list and take me through it?

[Warren]

Lets see..Buy the trim, you will need to cut the trim at a 45 degree angle at the corners so you will need a small miter box (you can get a small hobby miter box with a small razor saw at either home depot or a hobby shop for cheap), the you can measure and mark the trim on the inside of the miter and cut it with a miter saw for the 2 corners and a straight cut on the 2 ends, you might need some real fine sandpaper and steel wool to make the trim smooth then you will need to use some toner and then clear laquer after you color it. You will need some small finish nails and some wood glue. Put some glue on the inside of the trim and nail it in place with the small finish nails, I guess you might need a small hammer also if you dont have one.

supplies needed....

1. Trim
2. Miter box with saw.
3.#400 to 600 sandpaper and 0000 steel wool
4. wood glue
5. finish nails
6. small hammer
7. wood putty or grain filler to fill in the nail holes

I dont think I missed anything, this should get you there.

[morzh]

Warren

Thanks.
Though I meant for the whole refinishing job, if I decided to do the whole cabinet and not just the trim.
I might go for that but then I am not sure how a new trim would look on the old cabinet even if treated with Howard's.....what do you think?

I have a miter box, which I got so tired of when I was doing repairs in the house (baseboard) I bought a real miter saw. Not the best kind, the one Lowe's sold, second from the bottom price-wise.

Except for maybe the wood glue (have Elmer's) I will pretty much need everything else.

So, the grain filler - is it tinted or colorless?
What wood glue works best?
What size nails?

[Jamie]

For refinishing -
Stripper - $10 - Probably citrus based will fine - no odor
Scraper - $5
Steel Wool - $5
Grain filler - $25 - but you'll have enough for 100 cabinets
Burlap - $2 at any store that sells sewing cloth
Tack cloth - $5
Toner - $8
Clear - $8

If you replace the trim, it might need to be coated with sanding sealer before you try to color it.
sanding sealer $10

Woodworking stuff
The trim?
hobby sized miter box - about $5
saw - $10
glue - $5 (I like Elmers wood glue)

You're probably looking at around $100 or more. I didn't bother to add it all up.