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mute philco 19 or 89 or all between
#16

The chassis in the photo appears to be a Model 19 Code 126. Notice the tube socket, second one from the top? That is a five-pin socket, so it must be for a 36 tube. A 77 tube has six pins and will not fit in a five-pin socket.

But you say this isn't your chassis, just one that looks like yours.

Please post photos of your chassis. Don't worry about the replaced resistors and wires. I can probably decipher it from the parts layout. (I don't suppose it still has the sticker on the back of the chassis stating which Philco it is, i.e. "Chassis Type 89" or "Chassis Type 19"?)

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#17

confused1 Wrote:the information I got from a philco site for that part recommends voltages in the 2,000 range, can 630 volts be used?

Absolutely, yes, capacitors rated at 600 or 630 WVDC are more than adequate as replacements.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#18

OK!
I'll take a small break and replace those, that will at least keep me going in something I already know.
Also! The values of the cps are......25,.09,.09,.05,.05
seeing as .09 are unavailable I plan to use .1's in their place.
Agreeable?
One more thing I'm harping about is the 2nd IF Transformer.....there are two lugs that show continuity...that's the one I fixed. Shouldn't the last two lugs also show continuity unless there's a break somewhere in the winding?
#19

Here's another trick philco popped in there for me.
I am attacking the part 06624 metal case condensers....the cap value is .25, .09, .09, .05, .05
When I took the case apart, one of the caps fell out, something rotted the cap off. They were covered in black tar as expected. Using a popsicle stick I scraped of the tar to find the #20 in red on it, the one next to it #11, the largest of them a #6, on the other side a #97 in black and the last one was rubbed off.
What do these mean....why did philco do this! to give us migrains?
I could have gotten the repair done tonight but there goes another monkey wrench.
#20

Those radios are old enough for things to be rubbed off I would say. Icon_wink Remember these radios weren't really meant to be here this long. But, that's what the schematics are for. Check it to see where each cap hooks to.
#21

Do you mean you found numbers on each of the caps inside the metal can?

Don't worry about those. Just replace the caps, following the schematic so that you install the correct ones and that they connect to the proper places, as Warren said.

I've seen two digit numbers on old paper caps that I have pulled out of bakelite blocks before. I don't know why they did this. Only someone who worked at Philco in 1933 would know, and they aren't talking...dead men (and women) tell no tales. This isn't worth losing sleep over.

As Dwayne "The Rock" Johnson would say in this situation, "It doesn't matter what those numbers mean!" Icon_wink

Now, confused1, how about those photos? Please?

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#22

Hello
Actually there are no real schematics. I searched the web to find nothing.
After having a brain fart.....
I did go back to the three different schematics I have from nostalgiair for the 19 and found, on the 3rd page of the 1937 version a pic with the caps and the wires they are attached to.
I attached the schematic so everyone can share so they won't have to hunt like I did.
I did it really early this morning. It is done and sitting finished in the chassis.


Attached Files
.pdf M0013876.pdf Size: 271.72 KB  Downloads: 128
#23

Sounds like you got into the same situation I did just a few weeks ago; i.e. working on a radio that had at least 10 changes during its production run. Good luck.
#24

Hey Art
Nice pat on the back...I could heard a snicker in there and I thought I saw a negative shake of the head.......
Just kidding...LOL
I understand everyone is trying their best to pump life back into this beast.
I still have an inkling about that darned 2nd IF Transformer. It's strange that two contacts have continuity whilst the other two don't. Maybe just paranoid.
Another probably stupid question. Do all tubes have a P-K to test for voltage. I checked one of the other tubes on line and it seems to have it.
One more think before I call it a night......I saw an episode of American Restoration...They needed a rectifier tube for their radio. They went to a antiques mini mall to find one. They picked up a tube with five pins and said it will work as long as it had five pins......The last I knew You needed the type of tube for that particular radio.
Also they yanked a tube out of the back of another radio. Unless they got permission I would have been ticked of for cannibalizing another radio.
#25

yea. I just saw that American Restoration too... I dont believe you can just pick out any tube just because it has the same amount of pins to replace a tube, guess that just shows you how realistic tv is sometimes.
#26

Confused


Picking a tube by number of pins is usually testament to someone's deep knowledge of the subject.

However there is one posible exception: in some AC-DC radios instead of a diode rectifier they use a triode plugged as a diode. It is a 5 pin tube. And most triodes with 5 pins (and they all have the same pinout) will work when plugged in.
If this was the case, the guys knew what they were doing.
#27

Confused1

No offense intended...just sympathy!
#28

Mike, the tube they said was a pentode.
#29

Confused wrote "five pin", I took it ofr what it was.

Pentode cannot even be 5-pin, it needs at least 7. F1, F2, K, G1, G2 G3, P.

Also triode is the one use for rectification.
#30

Yeah, on the show they also said they were looking for a 5 pin. Most of what the show talked about on the tube didnt make sense.




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